Gloyale

+1 for a wagon

The rear speed sensor is not a reed switch. It is a hall effect pick-up. IIRC it also creates 30 pulses per revolution not 4 like the reed switch. The curious thing is that the system is designed to use either sensor for ECU control of the engine. Are you sure the lack of VSS signal is the culprit? Where it really sucks is that with only one operational, your AWD is probably not working properly. My guess is that you have a C sol. lock switch, so no worries.

His mods: Blocked EGR, and siliconed clogged coolant lines. How does this qualify as a hi performance intake? And he doesn't even know if it will fit an ea81 (which we all know it will)

I think taking other peoples opinions about tatoos into consideration when getting a tattoo is rediculous. It's you're body. It is the only thing in you're life that is truely yours. All of those bosses and coworkers and loan officers and all the rest will not be in you're life till you die. You're ink will. Get it what you want, where you want it, when you want it. No one else should hold sway in descisions about you're own body.

No the drivers side belt could be off by even several teeth, and stil you could adjust the timing so that spark happened at TDC for the Piston. BUT... the valves would be opening either too early or too late. relationship of spark to cam angle is not completely fixed, if you were way off then you would be too far out of the distys range of adjustment, but one tooth could still be adjusted to spark at the right time, but the cam would be at the wrong time.

Belt could be off a tooth or 2 off and you could still set the ignition timing to proper 20 degrees on the flywheel. The spark would happen at the correct time(relative to the piston), but the valves would be off time resulting in an incorrect mixture in the cylinder as it trys to burn, and or low compression. I don't know if this is you're problem, but it could be.

This ussually doesn't happen to the non turbo models. Unless they get severly overheated. And this is a different crack he's reffering to than the BTV ones in you're picture

I klnow you are a pro with these so I'm guessing you've checked. But if you are hearing pinging it may be you're timing is off. If it is you will have overheating even with a perfect cooling system.

Sweet man! This is a hugely valuable addition to the USRM

First off, those little cracks are fine. They are in nearly 100% of all ea82s driving right now. 99.9% of the time they are not deep enough to leak water. The intake has a coolant crossover in it. Do you have grey smoke? If so you are burning coolant and I bet it's coming from the intake. If you just installed it with 2 bolts then surely it will leak. Other thing to check is the condition of allcoolant hoses. The ones going to the heater core and the throttle body are nearly the highest points in the system, so they rarely leak water, they leak steam when warm, and it evaporates so you never see the leak. Look for signs of steem from any of the clamps and check the undersides of the heater hoses real well for signs of wetness Even if it is just a hose and not the intake, don't leave the intake with only 2 bolts in it. It is certain to leak soon. Take the manifold back of and extract the broken bolt, retap or helicoil as needed.

unbolt the turbo from it's flanges. lift it up and put the new hose on the turbo. Then guide the hose onto the tube on the block as you lower the turbo. All heat sheilds must be removed and it takes tricky clamp work.

The timing belt may be glazed and slipping over the water pump pulley. Or some other problem with tensioner or idler pulleys, etc... Cool lower pipe means no circulation, so with the thermostat removed, it can only mean the coolant is not circulating. So either a clogged radiator(which you think should be fine) or a not pumping water pump. I wouldn't take bubbling coolant as a sure sign of circulation, it could just be turbulence or even a HG as Nipper hinted at with the compresion test suggestion.

That's a good point about the seven stars Seahag. The Tahitians referred to them as the seven little eyes, and they served as a northern point of reference in the migration to Hawaii. Something of meaning to me. First off I've been self employed and will continue to be so for the rest of my life, so I'm not worried about were I get my tattoo. I wouldn't put it on my body if it was something I wanted to hide. I am 30, my son is 4. I think the attitude towards ink has and will continue to become more understanding. I think at least 1 in 3 people under 30 have a tattoo.

I wanted it on my forearm but the artist talked me out of it. He said I should wait til I have gotten more ink before commiting to something on the arm. Especially something small, as it blocks the area for more elaborate work. It is apparently *prime real estate*. I see his point and agreed. I will get an even bigger one there.

That seems fine to me. It is a hardened steel bolt and threads so going a bit tighter won't hurt, but it should't matter. 42 ft/lbs is pretty tight.

No way. EJ's are Waaaaaay more reliable. If the swap is done right, you'll have a trouble free car. An 86 EA82turbo is going to need lots of work. And that's if the heads aren't cracked. And to add to it, do you know how hard it is to find a good Flapper Mafs? Disty rotors? TPS? and more? Don't get me wrong, if you want to keep the EA go for it. They are still great, but if reliablility is the issue for not doing an EJ swap you got it backwards. (plus starting with a Turbo car makes the EJ swap that much easier, espescially if you do a trans swap as well cause you already have 25 spline axles)

A good EJ will be way more reliable than a 1st gen EA82turbo. I like the EA82 turbo even but It is a fickle hellcat with a heart full of lye. not really I just really wanted to say that sometime. But seriously EA82t=lot's of maintainence, or else....

Use the middle line of the 3 lines on the Flywheel for setting belts. These lines are seperate from the numbered degree lines for adjusting ignition timing. Don't forget to rotate the engine a full turn between setting the passenger side belt and the driver side belt. When finished the marks on each Cam pulley should be excactly opposite of each other. 1 up and 1 down. Timing is 8 degrees for the Carb and 20 degrees for the MPFI

The one I had I saw it all. I had the entire dash and carpet out, along with the windsheild. Pulling up the carpet to look is best but really, most all the bad spots are externally visible. The rears a little less so, but still I don't think that's too bad to drive for a few more years.

Subaru, in Japanese is the name for the Conselation Pleadies. Hence the original badge logo of the six stars(there are actually seven in the constellation, but one is dim and crammed next to another). I noticed that the new logo is different with a lage star in one corner and the other five spaced evenly in the rest of the oval. This is not an accurate depiction of how the constelation actually is arranged. I had never really noticed the difference until Saturday doing research for this. Better to have the Old gen Logo(cause that's what I love) and also be true to the actual constelation(which also hold meaning to me) Red backround cause the Majority of my Subaru memories were in red cars and I like it better than blue.

It's bad but It's still driveable for awhile. I had an 86 that was way worse and drove it for about 5 years like that, all the time getting worse each winter. The engine finally gave out(turbo car) and would have needed an overhaul. The amount of rust at that point made me decide it had lived it's life. But as long as you're car is running good otherwise you can keep beating on it. I did tons of rough road driving and snow bashing with it and never had any fear it was going to break or anything. Just don't jack it anywhere near that rust. Use the crossmember for the front and the rear diff to lift the rear if you need to jack it up. Check your center driveline for rusty U-joints as that is a typical problem for cars rusted that bad.

actually, I don't think it would be that hard to put a 4eat in. Except for Misled here has a 2wd, so he'd have to find one from a 2wd XT. The TCU could be wired in and located anywhere. Not any harder than a Carb to FI swap or an EJ swap. Contrary to what some say The TCU does not need to *talk* to the ECU or be connected to it in any way actually. The biggest hurdle I can see is that the 4eat uses signal from the TPS(thrrottle sensor) and the SPFI one outputs at a different range than the MPFI. But there are way around that. I like the idea of piggy backing an MPFI TPS onto the back of the SPFI TPS and extending the throttle shaft to go through both. Leave the SPFI one connected as is and hook the MPFI one to the TCU. But I think it's way esier and cheaper to find an old 3at and put it in. Misled you can still have this one I've got if you want, just high shipping.

Just make sure you didn't leave it so that mud/snow/etc.. can get up there and clog it. I don't know how much deep mud/snow/water you deal with but I can tell you from experience (with a 90 ford ranger) that sucking water splash or mud up into the filter box is bad.