Gloyale

More thread inside bracket slave should travel about 3/4 inch.

Some kind of leaking fluid is getting onto the exhaust. Could be oil leak, Power steering, or CV boot grease. The fluids burn on hot exhaust, and then the smoke is pulled into the car. (vent system draws air from the cowl area just behind the hood)

Remove the computer and throw it away. You have a weird model that used a computer and some solenoids to alter the mixture by increasing or decreasing the amount of air allowed to mix with the fuel. Most of these systems don't work anymore.......and the Car will still run with the ECU unplugged. And then If you install a weber.......you will be removeing all the stuff that the ECU controlled anyhow. Ditch it all. The on;y wire that the weber needs is 12v "key on" power to the electric choke.

Go with NTN...... Not national or timken. You want the OE type Japanese bearing. I've had trouble with timken esepscially not being correct sizes.

You don't need it at all if you have a carb. Espescially not a weber.

Fusible link in the under hood fuse box.

Power to the anti-dieseling solenoid on the carb?

Cable not tight enough? Or did you perhaps install the wrong fork?

Pull teh boot around the fork and shine a light down the shaft to examine the pivot.

You are probably right about getting some tweaker to come haul it off. Still doesn't make it a legal sale. The buyer will be stuck having to literally chop hte car up to get scrap value for it. This is my industry and I am very aware of all the laws.....Been burned on "lost title" deals before ending up having to spend money to get rid of cars. You sir, have proven that you are EXACTLY the kind of seller that gives Eugene it's shady character and a bad reputation, Bucko. Though I can't say if you contribute to the smell having not met you. You can do whatever you want but anyone reading this thread should beware. It will be a nightmare to get rid of the body once it's parts are stripped. Don't want the comments? Then don't come join our forum for no other reason than to hawk your "I might own it/no title" car IN THE WRONG SECTION OF THE FORUM NO LESS!!! Mods move or close or what the heck ever this really doesn't need to be here.

EA82t heads crack badly......all of them......They are not reliable especially when you bump the H.P........but I guess it depends on excactly what you call "dependable"..........Certainly would not hold up to 30+ miles a day of DD duty.

1 or 2 washers stacked between the starter and the bell.

Bend the wrench

You don't want the 3 piece. The outer races are skinny and are prone to spinning in the housing. That's why they went to the one piece (which is still 2 taper/roller sets and a single large outer race) The cartridge type is not sealed......stick the whole thing in a bearing packer and squeeze away......they will fill up with whatever grease you want to use. The grease they come with is shipping grease.

There are literally 2 bolts and 2 wires. If you got it apart that far you can do it.

+1 Why would you take apart the starter that way????

Check your clutch fork/ it may be bending.

Brake lights not taillgihts. The rubber stop that hits the button on the switch is probably gone.

Two85s... as well as being in XT's and Turbo's there were a handful of 2wd 85 models that also had non-turbo MPFI.....this is the engine you have. It's an early type used with Flapper MAF. It's a "flat" intake, not a "spider" Carbed, SPFI, MPFI, and Turbo in 85 have different combinations of compression and cam profiles..... by 87 though....all Carbed and and SPFI and non-turbo MPFI went to the same compression (9.5:1) and Carbed and SPFI got the same cams. IIRC the N/A MPFI still used it's own cam. This is why I believe 87 models with carbs should be timed to 20 degrees not 8......I think Fuji didn't update the spec for 87 since it's the last year for carbs..... Anyhow.... the engine you have two85s is 9:1 compression, and 12,58,58,12 cam profile (btdc,abdc,bbdc,atdc)

Subarus fire 1-3, 2-4 So if you seperarte the banks.....you make the exhaust in each bank pulse wildly....since there is a full crank rotation where NO exhuast is pushed out the pipe. You'd be making it run like a joined pair of 2 cylinder engines rather than 1, 4cyl. This is very bad for scavenging......dual exhaust works OK on v6 and v-8 because ussually there are cylinders firing on each bank during each rotation. Works on motorcycles because of short, narrow pipes with very little restriction or tuned restrictions. Not so good for Subarus. not that it won't run.....but it will be a novelty not an upgrade.

If the flywheel has a deeply beveled edge on the engine side, ONLY timing marks no hash marks (III) for timing belts...... it is an Large type EA81 flywheel, and will present starter and engagement issues when used with EA82 clutch and trans..... If the flywheel has a more "square" edge on the engine side, and has a set of hash marks (III) then it is the EA82 flywheel. Also, if it is an EA82 the bolt holes in the flywheel will be 1 size larger than the bolts in the EA81 crank. (M10 vs. M9)

hang on......a 78 Brat would have had a single range 4spd....not a D/R..... Just excactly what year is this thing agian.......DustinsDad......I thought your brat was an 86?

You are correct. It can make for starter issues too. (cured with a few washer shims.....not ideal though) Smleod, I would recommend using a Flywheel from an EA82 vehihcle (85-94 4wd 5spd wagon/sedan)

The topper should have a lock....and it's overlap of the tailgate should prevent the tailgate from opening.

10-40 is fine for all year almost anywhere in the USA. 10-30 in the winter in northern states. 15-40 or 20-50 in very hot climates like Arizona, NM, Nevada in Summer.