Gloyale

Very, Very good point. Ej swap is ALOT of horsepower for a light little Brat the handles questionably already. It's easy to hit 100 VERY quickly in my EJ22 wagon.....I've been driving 20 years now.......Looking back, I definately would have wrecked it when I was 16. Something to consider for sure. A fully rebuilt EA81 would be a solid investment for sure. On the other hand EJ swap (maybe an EJ18 to keep it reasonable?) is a solid choice too...but getting a good fresh one installed and reliably fitted with adapter, flywheel, and wiring, fuel line upgrade, fuel pump, exhaust all done is a large project.......doing that for less than a good EA81 would be tough. Jerry is just making a shifter and hi/lo rod for the 5spd conversion. He does a "kit" which allows keeping all the original EA81 shift levers.

It isn't that hard to take a tire of a rim with a large tire tool (spoon) and another large bar wedged through the middle. Seat the bead with starting fluid after mounting there is no reason to want or need split rims for a subaru. And it's pronounced "Poo-show" As for center hole I think you are seeing the Center caps.....they remove. Although google does bring up pics of newer european puegeot rims with smaller bolt circle and some of them may not have centers....but they are not correct for subaru bolt pattern any how.

It will bolt in but engine management willnot plug n play. You would need to swap the electronics from the newer manifold onto the old one. Possible but difficult and won't likely pass emissions inspections if you have them........won't have warm up idle either.

Yeah it's probably the clutch fork.

You should replace the large bearing, and the side output seals and probably the hi/lo shifter seal too. Small bearing is not ussually the issue. Fuji bond or permatex "the Right Stuff" works even better.

85111-GA144 = DL sender.....no lo fuel light 85111-GA152 = GL analog dash sender w/ lo fuel light 85111-GA213 = Digi dash sender for all digidash w/lo fuel light This is from 85 parts catalog.....should work for all models although there may be other, newer #s that work for digidash too.

Not a check valve. Looks like the Bowl Vent valve for carbed models.

mid 97 was the switch to interference. I would do a leakdown to determine if any valves are slighlty off. these will not seize the engine like motorcycle engines or others.....the valves will still ride smooth in the guides but be a degree or 2 off of true and not quite seal properly in the valve seat.

It could but without examining the axles insides no way to know.

Puegot wheels bolt right on. I've never heard of anyone having to enlarge anything. All the ones I've seen all have hole in the center.

I think there is a button on the trip computer (center console) for switching.......maybe hold it for 3 seconds IIRC.

If it's a small enough unit, you can mount them in the Ash tray area...just remove the tracks....it helps to find antenna cord with 90 Degree connector for depth but works either way.

oh wow.....that's just the LCD display....not a whole dash. Definately XT......no idea what year or model...If you had the rest of a dash to fit it to, I could tell you how to light up individual functions.

Just unbolt the 4 bolts at the rear flange and wire the end off the shaft off to the side....It can stay like that for the trip.

Replace the piston. Or just leave it and let it warm up before driving hard.

I think only 4wd/awd XTs got the air suspension. And some with air suspension are not Digidash......so yeah.... can you post pics of the dash??? My books show all XT digidash as being the same other than options like auto indicators/height/4wd...etc.. So what ever it is it should plug into an XT if it's XT dash.

You got it backwards.....at least for the US. 85/86 were orange 87-89 were Green. All XT digidash in the US I've seen are orange....and completely different dashes than the Wagon/Sedan The reason so many different part #s is that some had lights others did not for Automatic gears and 4wd or FWD, Height adjust or not.....etc....

You cannot vary the Wattage like that. the watts will be what they are (there is a value that is required to break the bonds) You get there by using high volts/low amps......or lower volts at high amps. you cannot keep a steady .20 amps while varying the volts over thousand+ ........the load stays the same (water) ??? Watts is the required power to do work...........amp/volts combintion is how you get there.

No it's the right forum I think you just need to add more trans fluid.

any change to the suspension will affect the handling. it's just a matter of for better or worse.

It's not a backpressure issue, it's scavenging. What happens is that each bank of cylinders fires then the other. 1-3, 2-4.......so there is a full revolution where one side or the other is not firing. so the exhaust in each tube would slow to almost no flow during each "dead" rotation per side. By having all 4 cylinders running through the same pipe.....it keeps velocity of the exhaust up so it never "stalls"...... Research "scavenging" and how each previously fired cylinder helps pull the exhaust out of the next.

95-99 heated outback seats are not power tracks.

CV angles look good. Not sure what's goin on.

I don't have enough money to see a dentist but that doensn't mean I'm gonna start pulling my own teeth.

EA82 fits fine in EA81 engine bay. It's the EA71 chassis that needs cut. injectors are the same.