themoneypit

i just looked my 00 outback sedan over, and dont see an egr valve either. im anxious to see if you just plug and play that 2.2l and it runs fine without swapping intakes, etc. if that is the case, i will def go that route instead of gambling on another 2.5l from the junkyard.

post up the pics right here in this thread. im looking at doing the same project soon, so it would be a huge help...

ive had half a dozen xt/xt6s and never a rattling problem with the dashes. yes the surrounds for the radio/clusters get brittle and crack from the sun, but i try to keep an extra in stock (and knock on wood never needed it). i think it would look cool in a wagon, but would be a huge project...

are they prone to HG failure like the 2.5s? or other reliability issues? are they a plug and play, or anything need changing when swapping one of these? did they have an EGR system? im looking into finding one for the exact same reasons/symptoms the OP stated. thanks in advance GD

so what year 2.2l are a direct plug and play swap for a 2000 SOHC 2.5l? thanks

what 2.2l engines are compatible with the phase II 2.5 SOHC? years and models would be helpful for a search.

or its the dreaded headgaskets are bad and pumping exhaust gas into the system overpressurizing it and doing it. i know the pre 99s were NOTORIOUS for that, and the 00-03s were semi prone, but usually leak externally. keep us updated.

thats the straightest brat bumper ive seen in awhile, wanna sell it

my 90 3dr i had would do this too. only with mine, it would start to run funny and if you looked in the rear view mirrow you would see james bond 007 smoke screen! it would literally burn a quart of oil in a matter of seconds. i would pull over, put a new oem pcv valve in, and a quart of oil, and it would be good to go for another 3-4 months. then do it again, was weirdest thing i ever seen on a car. i kept a new oem pcv valve and wrench right in the glove box LOL. never did figure out wtf it was that was causing it...

hey dude, i seen you rocking your brat in watertown the other day!! you were pulling out of charles street onto french street! how funny... hey i have the inserts and stuff or even whole wiper arm assemblys for your brat on my hatchback. the hatch is about to go to the scrap yard from rust (i had a plow on it the last 5 years for doing my driveway). but most parts are the same. let me know if i can help you out with any parts before it goes (within the next week). i was at my buddys house on french street, i heard the tell tale subie sound (i can hear em coming a mile away and completely unmistakeable lol), and i saw you drive by his house, and said to myself sweet brat!!!

wow, ive ordered tons of parts from rockauto, and never had a wrong part. i did have a defective ebrake cable for my toyota t100, and had a part box empty once, but never any wrong parts... i do hate that they have stopped carrying alot of parts for the older subies. when i first started using them, they had great selection, now theyve done warehouse closings etc, and alot of the stuff that was previously avail isnt...

nice work!! but wouldnt it have been much cheaper to ej it?

when you push the switch forward to hi-beam, do they stay on? im betting you have burnt out low beams and its as simple as changing both bulbs.

so howd you make out? im guessing no news is good news??

http://myworld.ebay.com/dannybreadman/ heres a link to the guys stuff... 70s stuff, NOS ea81 wagon quarter panels, doors, and tons of other stuff. just figured id pass along on here so you guys can check it out/buy some stuff youve been looking for. im not affiliated with the seller, just stumbled across him while searching.

http://myworld.ebay.com/dannybreadman/ heres a link to the guys stuff... NOS ea81 wagon quarter panels, doors, and tons of other stuff. just figured id pass along on here so you guys can check it out/buy some stuff youve been looking for. im not affiliated with the seller, just stumbled across him while searching.

here in CT they were charging extra for vanity plates etc when renewal time came.. people got mad, and threatened a class action lawsuit because of the extra fees at re-reg time. now, you pay a little extra when you purchase them, and the re-reg fees are the same as passenger plates.

awesome, thats the info i was looking for... it was converted using ester oil (so thats good ) ive swapped t-stats, used lower 180 degree ones, oe temp ones, oem ones, doesnt matter... as far as "running hot" it would get almost to the H marks on the guage. it never boiled over, but was def close to it. i believe the high side like u stated is getting too hot, causing the rest of the cooling system to get hot. thats great then, i will evac the system, and recharge it with r12 then. should i use ester oil again? or should i use the r12 oil charge can i have? i will look into the cans of a/c flush at N.A.P.A. (never any parts available lol)

its not guessing, its experience... he stated when he wiggles the wires for the CTS it makes the idle jump and go crazy... HELLO, theres your problem lmao, no tester needed

here ya go, found this in about 20 seconds LOL http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-SUBARU-LOYALE-90-94-RH-FR-POWER-WINDOW-SWITCH-/400216926913?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2ec9aac1&vxp=mtr

exactly. its amazing what some corrosion does to these cars, makes the ecu's and everything act stupid... i cant wait till he posts back to see if fixing his harness did the trick..

i beg to differ. r134 runs WAY hotter than r12 does. thats why you can only charge it to @85% capacity in an r12 system. yes, the rad may be PART of the problem, but the 134 is def a major contributor. ive had a dozen xt6's, ALL that have been converted run hot with the a/c on, the ones with r12 dont. if it was a theromostat, then it would do it regardless of the a/c being on or not. timing belts and water pump were done within the last 30k miles, so i highly doubt thats the issue also. at this point, im going to just evacuate the system, install a different dryer that has a clear window, add oil, and charge it up.

a bad CTS harness/plug on an xt6 mimicks MANY other faulty parts, and many people throw parts at them not knowing its as simple as fixing a couple wires. im willing to bet he will post back all happy that the car is fixed once he replaces that corroded wire harness.

maybe my radiator still is the trouble? i just found a NOS replacement, so i guess ill try that first b4 reversing the a/c back. for the xt6 the radiators are dealer only, and discontinued, so i got lucky finding this one. i searched everywhere last year for one and couldnt find one. so i had no choice but to have the stock one flushed....

i bet thats your problem then. easiest way is to unplug that, and the oil pressure sending unit wire from the sending unit, and pull that part of the harness out behind the intake, undo the loom/tape and keep cutting the wires for CTS sensor back until you find nice clean wire. then you can solder new wires onto the sensor, put male/female connectors on them and connect it back up to the wiring harness. UNLESS you can find a (i believe) gen 1 legacy that has the same plug but it makes a better seal, if you find one in a junk yard (bring your sensor with you) then cut it off of a junkyard motor and splice a whole new plug into it.