themoneypit

being that im going xt6 to xt6.. i THINK the guage clusters should interchange no problem. i would hope they are plug and play. i really need someone who has done this exact swap to chime in here..

thanks gary. i appreciate the info. cant wait to get going on my 6 project.. and yeah im keeping the air struts. i hope i can figure a way to leave the rears in there too.. but if i have to put rear coilovers then thats ok too.

i will be sure to let ya know what, if any, problems i run into while doing the swap. i hear ya i love stick! lucky me i have my 2010 rs/ss camaro with a 6spd and 426h/p to hold me over now that the nice weather is back here in ct :lol:.. ive had a few xt6s that were stick, and theyre so much more fun to drive than automatic. granted in the automatic i get close to 30mpg highway driving.. never even came close to that with the stick. i hope the swap goes smooth, and i dont have to buy a bunch of stuff so i can afford to buy the lift kit for it as well.

given the years of ea81s.. you have to expect rust in the tank.. usually when the filter plugs to the point that its undriveable, it means its getting full or rust. had this happen several times. i would def keep both filters!! IIRC the primary filter (underneath car) filters the gas before it goes into the pump. if you remove this one, rust will go thru the fuel pump and ultimately burn it out, or clog a line somewhere that will be next to impossible to find. instead of the chain stores like auto zone, etc... try a napa, or no name place. the local napa here usually has the primary one in stock. worst case, cap of the vapor port on the one you found and put it as the primary filter. years ago, a buddy of mine had an ea81 with a rusty tank. he would keep a couple primary filters in the glove box and a pair of pliers for the clamps. about once a week he would all of a sudden lose power, but it would idle fine. he would change that filter on the side of the road and itd be good as new until next week

i thought these were pre-wired for all options... ie standard/auto?? guess ill have to get under it and see if theres any unused plugs near the tranny. the cars are both ft4wd. the rear diff mounts are different?? ill have to check on that as well.

i tried it, wont load the page from AARC subtitle... ill try again later never mind, worked with internet explorer, not firefox thou... THANKS

its another xt6. same 88 just 5spd. i may have to score a set of pedals from someone on here thou, these are looking bent and a little messed up...(gas pedal mostly) might be able to change just that over from mine, not sure yet.. ill have to see when i get them out thou. but basically, all the axles are the same automatic, to standard xt6's?? i sure hope so cuz the donor car doesnt have a good axle in it i got it to run this morning and drove it around the yard click clack patty whack damn this thing is ruff!! diff lock didnt want to stay engaged, so i may need those too..

hoping someone can scan the pin out diagram and numbering for me from the factory service manuals. or if there is a link to FSMs that i can look it up myself would be good too.. i tried searching, but ECU pin out in search shows nothing.. you can email it to me at tartags420@aol.com thanks in advance

88 xt6 ft4wd autotragic being swapped to 5spd ft4wd. just picked up the donor car today. so far my list is as follows. if ive missed anything please ring in and let me know. also any advice, or tips for the swap would be greatly appreciated as well trans and crossmember rear diff pedal assembly/cable diff lock solenoids/switch driveshaft guage cluster starter flywheel clutch kit thats off the top of my head, are all the speed sensors the same auto/stick, axles (front and rear) and so on?? any advice of what im up against would be appreciated too... i also hope to order a lift like what grossgary put on his 6. so basically my 6 is going to get a HUGE UPGRADE!! 5spd, and lift with some bigger rims/tires.. i already have a set of 17" wheels i just need tires.

hey gary, did you ever figure a way to make it work with the rear air struts? or are you running coilovers in the rear still? im so tempted to order the same stuff you did and put a lift on mine!! i already have some 17 inch rims that would go on it, would just have to buy some sneakers for them. what size rims/tires are you running on yours?

i dont think thats garys lifted 6, but that thing is damn sweet!! i believe garys is white, and also freakin sweet.. makes me jealous... if you need a rack, i just bought a reman one one ebay for 35 bux shipped to my door.. they are pretty cheap now that theres not a huge demand for them anymore.

in my xt6 i put them inbetween the e-brake and passenger seat. holds a dunkin donuts coffee no problem.. pretty sturdy too... in mine, as soon as i can remove the original radio/eq i plan on putting a set of legacy slide out cup holders in there thou. i grabbed a set out of a parts car b4 it went to the crusher. im hoping to do it soon since the weather is finally starting to warm up around here.

some of them have 2 of these, one is an egr solenoid.. are you getting a check engine light with it off? if so check the code and see what it says. i have a brand new one in the box from subaru. he's right theyre like 150 bux. if the one i have is the same as this one, id sell mine for 75 shipped... i no longer have the car i bought it for... the part number i have is subaru 14774AA141 looks the same, just an updated mounting bracket

well lets hope subaru doesnt start using toyota gas pedal designs :lol:

IIRC to check the codes on these, the computer is up under the steering column. it will have a flashing light on the front (remove lower plastic panel to see it). when you turn the key on, count the flashes. longer flashes are intervals of 10, and quick flashes are intervals of 1. example 3 long flashes and 2 quick flashes is code 32.

bring it back and tell them to fix it right.... they prob put the t-stat in backwards.

definitly get it checked. there could be underlying damage that isnt visible.. the plastic/rubber bumpers often spring back into place, but mounts and such underneath are broken. plus its not your fault, so if its paid for, you can just pocket whatever money her insurance co pays you.

yeah, i get the egr code in the obw.. doesnt really bother me. the loyale was a 92, or 93 i think... im pretty cool with the people at montambaults i should stop in and ask them if they plug into the computer or not. i went to chase parkway after the swap to see if they could re-program the car to not look for egr. they said no. i dont know if it will pass or not when it comes due for emissions. on another thread here, someone said to ground out plug 81 or 82 (IIRC) on the computer and that should get rid of the code. i havent tried it yet. another thing mentioned in that thread was to splice the egr sensor into the harness before the main plug on the engine and that may rid the code, but again havent tried any of these yet. i just finished my swap a couple months ago. and not due for emissions for another year or so. but hey, if you figure a way to trick the car, even if its a temporary switch for the computer to get it thru emissions, let us know, or me atleast so i can avoid the problem down the road.

+1. did you grease the pins before putting the calipers back on the pins?? if not, thats where i would start. as for the brake light, as far as i know they only come on when the fluid is low..

sounds like you should make an appointment for the rest of the fleet.....

where do you go for emissions?? im also from watertown ct and have brought a loyale with the check engine light on to montambalts on thomaston ave for emmissions and it passed no problem. they didnt even mention the light being on... ironically, i also did this exact same swap that your talking about. 97 OBW 2.5 w/egr and installed a 2.2 out of a 96 lego w/o egr. i brought mine thru emissions with the 2.5 with bad headgaskets and it passed. havent had to bring it thru yet with this setup. i wonder if you paid the 20 bux if they would test it even thou it wasnt due for testing yet.. just to see if it would pass??

well pick one up and put it in the glove box... im sure the used long block will end up doing it at some point too.... thats why i went the 2.2l route. i was tempted to buy a used 2.5, but figured its russian roulette.... take a few H/P loss for more reliability and im all over that like white on rice

when i did mine, i started w/eng cold. turned heat on high, ran up to temp and got all air bubbles out. installed cap, left lever open, made sure overflow tank was at proper level and worked great. i checked fluid every week and had to ad a little once in awhile. but was better than the random overheats it would do before...

on these phase I 2.5s, when the HG's go bad, and the exhaust is going into the coolant. you can buy a stant lev-r rad cap from the parts store. install it and leave the lever up. this allows the exhaust gas to burp easier into the overflow tank, but not the coolant. the car will run fine, and you wont notice any difference. i drove my 97 OBW for 4k miles this way before finding a 2.2l to swap into it. if you go this route, just make sure when you put the cap on that the lever is facing the battery when tight, or the hood will not clear the lever, and will actually close the lever. cheap and easy temporary fix if you cant afford to do the job right away, or if its your only means of transportation....

actually gary, the xt6 design is the only subaru ive ever seen with a setup like that... and it does suck. most other subies have them on the hood. actually every other subaru that i can think of, or have owned have them on the hood now that i think about it.