themoneypit

so i got it yesterday and already broke down wtf... check the first posting of this thread and read more about what happened.... love the car, not happy about the break down thou...

i should be picking up my baja turbo on thursday. heading to jersey to get it. their taking my harley in on trade, and as long as all goes well, will be home and driving it thursday afternoon. man i cant wait....

from the subies ive worked on, there are usually 3 sensors/switches for the cooling system. the coolant temp SENSOR is for the ECU (and located near the theromstat housing), the radiator fan SWITCH is for the fans (and is located in the radiator), and the coolant temp sending unit or SWITCH is for the guage (and is usually located on the intake or coolant pipe somewhere). this is the set up on my xt6s, and IIRC the same way my OB wagon was also. however the wagon is long gone... the one for the guage on the xt6's is under the intake on a "coolant pipe" towards the back of the motor, and is a M-Fer to get to it.

i had two back in the day and loved them. the first one i picked up for $100 when i worked at a junkyard, and someone called wanting to sell it to the owner for $100 (1988 justy fwd 5spd 200+k on the clock). the owner didnt want it, so i called the guy back after work and bought it. drove the heck out of it with no problems for about 6 months, then my sister got her license and i gave it to her. she drove it for a couple years then sold it for $300 later i picked up an 89 4wd 5spd, and it ran great until i lent it to a friend, who overheated it and instead of stopping and getting it towed continued driving it until it just quit... (id still like to kick their azz) i put a new head gasket on it, drove it a couple months, and it started knocking... sold it with a bad motor and never looked back.

nice, i could deal with that... 20s on 89 octane... now i just have to see if i could work out this deal and get this thing....

i thought they were in waterbury ct... maybe they moved? they dont have any xt6 parts :-\

does a cooked valve cover mean they were running regular oil and not synthetic? or do they all just cook the gasket?? well around town, yeah im sure ill enjoy the turbo, but on the highway, i usually just cruise around 75, so that shouldnt kill the mpgs too bad. running premium kind of sux, since i run it in 2 of my cars already (my new camaro and one of my xt6's). if i get it im bartering my harley for it, so if it happens, cool, if not, no biggie either. i just dont ride the bike anymore since i got the camaro

i havent seen it in person yet, but is the oil filler a straight shot down to the top of the head?? ie, can i look down there with a flashlight and see if theres sludge?? if not, worst case scenario, i could always run a few engine flushes thru it and start using the full synthetic i suppose.. if it hasnt been using it already i havent driven a turbo baja yet either, are they pretty peppy? or do they suffer from turbo lag? what can i expect to get for mpg's with it (mostly highway drive to work). thanks again for all the suggestions

sounds good. it says it has maint. records, so ill check them out. ill also try and peek in the oil fill cap to see if its clean inside. so these werent prone to h/g failures like other 2.5s?? timing belts i would just replace myself. id never pay the stealership to change them. i would use oem belts of course, and prob toss a waterpump in there and some seals while im at it... im hoping to look at it this weekend, will post back if i get it, or not.

i picked up this 05 baja turbo, i traded in my harley on it. test drove the baja, looked it over real good, all seemed perfect! so i trailered the bike down, trailered the baja back. i get home, tape the temp tag in the window, and off i go to cruise around and instantly fall in love with it!! UNTIL 28 miles later, im climbing a hill, the car downshifts and the boost kicks in. i hear a crunch followed by what sounds to me like a bad bearing.... i was right next to my house so i limped it home (bout 1/2 mile) and parked it. did the turbo blow?? it sure is my guess... luckily it has a 90 day warranty (which doesnt kick in for the first 100 miles so the dealer has to cover this problem not the warranty company). just would like some feedback, and i know not to drive it anymore i will have it towed to whatever shop they want me to bring it to. i absolutely love it, just wouldve liked to get more than 28 miles on it b4 its first break down..... if it is bad turbo, i will DEMAND they drop the pan and check/clean the metal bits from the bottom of the engine, is there anything else i should get done??

i just put a beck arnley clutch kit in my new xt6, works great. rock auto, 188 shipped to my door. couple years ago, i put an elcheapo one from ebay into my outback wagon, and the thing chattered from day one. def worth using a better, known name. the beck arnley ones come with the throw out bearing clips too im pretty sure. yes, def reseal the rear seperator cover with RTV silicone as suggested by gary.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TRANSMISSION-AUTO-4WD-SUBARU-LEGACY-BP9-EJ25-SOHC-1999-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a6029ae5fQQitemZ250721447519QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories is this the right one?? by 8 bolt, do you mean where it bolts to the motor?? so the phase 2 ej25 trannys have how many bolt holes? i assumed all outback 2.5l auto trannys would have the same gear ratio. i thought you just had to make sure it has the spin on external tranny filter

in the meantime, if your not going to do the h/gs right away, buy a stant lev-r rad cap and run it with the lever up. it allows the exhaust gas out without pushing out the coolant. i ran mine for about 2500 miles like that. never overheated it.... i now keep one in the glove box of ANY phase I ej25 i own. this way WHEN (not if) the h/gs go, i wont be stranded waiting for a tow truck.....

its a 99 SUS with the spin on tranny filter. just wondering what years, models, etc. will interchange so i can start looking for one. thx in advance

yeah.... it still doesnt work LOL

yeah whats up with subaruxt.com....?? ive tried getting on a couple times too.. the fwd xt struts make the xt6 sit very low in the front... i have them on my beater. on a side note thou... i had 17inch rims/tires that were for an outback sus. i put them on my 6, and they fit the wheel well AWESOME!! raised the cars ground clearance a few inches atleast. looks sweet!! after seeing that they fit im very tempted to finally order a lift for mine like yours gary. im running stock air suspension, and i get an occasional light rub with them on odd road dips, def not enough to take them off thou... someone fix subaruxt.com so i can stop hijacking other peoples threads......

i dont think this is true... i bought a cluster from a 98 and it wouldnt work.. i believe they have a 2 wire speedo plug, the 99 has a one wire plug.. all the other guages etc worked, but no speedo...

I disagree. I bought front pads n rotors, rear shoes n drums, plus hardware kit and pad shim kit for my hatch 80 bux shipped for everything! The key with them is to try and have everything come frothe same warehouse!

+1 i love rock auto, better brand name stuff (like beck arnley) for cheaper than any parts store can touch price wise.. when the stuff is that cheap like for these old subarus, i usually order 2 of each and have a full tune up for next time i need it sitting on the shelf.. and buying 2 of each is STILL cheaper than buying 1 of each from advance auto, or auto zone!!!

how/where do you get the steering shaft lengthened for an ea81 4" lift?? are there any ea81 lifts available that you dont have to lengthen it??

hook a radiator to the 2 hoses and fill it.. once coolant comes out of the two heater core hoses, bypass them and put a pressure tester on the radiator.. that should work?? no?

after letting it sit, and you start it up for the smoke show do you just let it idle till it clears up, or do you drive it??

gary, pretty sure theyre are several relays for the fans. on the pass side in front of the strut tower there should be 3 of them. two side by side, one underneath those. not sure which does what, maybe try switching them up and see if you have any luck.

i think you should buy it for 200, then sell it to me for 300! up here in the rust belt, rust free subies of ANY year are hard to come by... never mind ea81's i would buy it in a second! I dont mind the wagons, although i do prefer hatches, i have 2 of them now but they are rusty.. would love a rust free ea81!! let me know, im seriously interested, and would give it a GREAT HOME!

http://www.rockauto.com pads 5.50, rotors 10 bux each.. i just ordered for my 82 hatch, front rotors, pads, shims, rear shoes, shim kit, and clutch cable with shipping for 89 bux... mine are solid rotors, but looking up the 85 brat it shows the vented rotors, and they are cheaper than mine... mine cost 15 each