beauregaardhooligan

moshem, the 2 way valve relieves excess pressure from the gas tank by venting gas vapors to the charcoal cannister, or allows fresh air into the tank when it gets cold. If you're sure you don't have the cannister then the valve is doing nothing. I suspect you could plug those line without a problem, but make sure you have a vented gas cap.

My '89 Honda Civic 4wd wagon has a viscous coupler in the drive shaft. The 4wd system is called RealTime, and I've seen that name on CRVs, etc. I suspect any Honda with RealTime on it would have one.

Check your tie-rod ends.

Well, I thought I had all mine at 1st, but found some were missing. I believe there were 3 or 4 on each side. They would rattle also, just slid around under acceleration.

I don't know about yours, but my '84 was missing some of the adjustable knobs and the sliding plate that they screw into was rattling around. When I'd come to a stop I could hear them slide to the front, then slide to the back when I started off. I just tightened the knobs I had all the way to the back and that kept them quiet till I found some more knobs.

If the coil manufacturer says to use the resistor, keep it in there. You could be risking damage and a voided warranty. Get the new plugs 1st. Subaru's seem to prefer NGKs, other brands don't last. I think the platinums are worth the price, but forget about the multi-electrode plugs. Only one electrode will fire per cycle, definitely a waste of bux.

Try opening the spark plug gap. I run .045 with an Accel SuperStock coil. Makes a *big* difference.

Check your blinker fluid, sounds like there's too much. Seriously, a fast blinker usually means one of the bulbs is burnt out.

Try turning the axle as it goes in. A friend with a long screwdriver on the outside can help keep the spacer in place.

Bad exhaust gaskets will hurt performance.

The accelerator pump only squirts on the primary circuit. P.S. Welcome to the board!

That sounds like to *much* gas to me.

Definetly a vacuum leak. Time for a re-build, the kits are only about $20 bux. Don't forget to change the fuel filters.

I vote for a SHORT self-tapping screw with some gasket material to seal it. I've seen this work on gas tanks.

Sometimes trying to tighten the screw helps loosen the crud so you can back it out.

Maybe he means the driveshaft binding like the 4wd does on pavement? What kind of transmission is it?

The most dangerous thing about driving on snow/ice is other drivers. Don't assume they are going to stop just because you have the green light. Pretend you have no brakes when driving on snow/ice. Don't go faster than you can coast to a stop. If you must use the brakes, pump them. I 2nd the *practice in a parking lot* notion. Make it slide by using the brakes to see how that works, then make it slide by using the gas. Try it in 2wd and 4wd. They both react differently. If you do get stuck, gently applying the brake, foot or hand, can stop the spinning wheel and send power to the other. Gently rocking between reverse and 1st will often help get you moving, but don't slam it. That'll just tear things up. Don't try to turn when you're stuck. Go straight forward or backward. Once you get moving even a little, 2nd gear will often pull better than 1st. 2nd gear won't let the wheel spin so bad if/when it loses traction Fireplace ashes are great for traction. Carry a tow strap, just in case you need it. More than likely, you'll use it to pull someone else out, though. Wait till you see the look on their faces!

I seem to recall those Euro-brats with the long wheel base are not 4wd. ....could be wrong, though.

Make sure your front wheels are straight.

Here's one of his more recent jumps.

It could. For a while. It could also plug your radiator which would not be good. Basically, small specks will get caught in the hole as it is leaking and plug the hole. This is how all stopleaks work, and should only be used as a temporary fix. If you do use it, be sure to thoroughly flush you coolingheating system after you get it fixed.

It won't bolt in. The tie-rod ends are the wrong angle, and I believe the hose fittings on the rack won't clear the frame on the EA81.

Yeah, sounds like a bad head gasket or possibly cracked head leaking coolant into the cylinder. I'll bet a lot of that smoke is water vapor. Does the radiator lose water?

Forkin'Hay! That's truly awesome! Well Done!

You absolutely want to go easy on it for the 1st 50-100 miles. Minor surface imperfections need a little time to wear down so hot spots don't crack the lining. Same thing with brakes.