ivantruckman

i need to weld in floor patches, the undercoating looks pretty flammable. i tried a wire wheel . it gums up. scraping is not productive...is there a remover solvent or something. ?????????

My wife says I'm a tool. but i think it has a different meaning, I used a plastic tube that was the same size as the shaft, it held the brushes in place wile I slipped it over the shaft. glad to see your rebuilding your components, instead of having it done at a "rebuild" shop that will screw it up anyway

i do understand the time issue, it is very time consuming, but to me its relaxing, just me in the shop doing welding and fab work, alone with my thoughts and dreams. oh ya

so many subarus die in the rust belt because of "frame rust" this 86 subaru wagon was considere frame damaged. so i got it for 250 bucks. 180 thousand miles, runs great, dosnt leak much oil, has been well maintained, thisa was considerd a parts car....I refuse to let it die, the only rust is under the front frame rails. im going to attempt to make a patch pannell and use carriage bolts and body epoxy , im using 12 guage steel to fabricate the patch, thats the capacity of my brake , it seems to be thicker than the stock rail, this ia a very common spot of rust on these cars in the rust belt.. i have pics of my progress so far , which isnt much.. any comments / ideas would be much apreciated

there is a resistor coil Assembly under the passenger side dash, screwed on to the air box, the coils inside it are shot, only high speed works because you have an open in all three resistor coils, speed 1,2, and 3 go thru resistors. speed 4 is power thru no resistor. you have to remove the plastic panel under the glove box, or you can remove the glove box door to get access. i cant find my camera right now, let me know if you need pics, they can be rebuilt if you can use a soldering iron, or you can buy a new or used one, usually a junkyard resistor Assembly is bad too. either way its very easy..

ouch !

someone on the Bord had a tire size calculator post a while ago. i cant seem to find it

tried the new sandblaster today wanted to determine if it would remove the pitting as well. did pretty good , but took about 25 minutes per wheel..

I was just reading back in the thred 1. the clock.. its easy to fix with a soldering iron. open it up and wiggle the wires, you should be able to see a broken solder joint 2. if you strip a rotor screw you can take a screw from the little metal plate (dust shield) just below the rotor. there exactally the same size and pitch, tha plate wont go anywere with one less screw. if you need pics let me know

I got it ..give up and sell it to me..lol just kidding..ok kind of. it sounds like a ground problem, there are so many things that depend on ground wires, also could be a corrosion issue, intermittent problems with ecu and other sensors usually are. that being said it could take hours to find . like checking wire coupling plugs, engine grounding straps. and things. can you post pics of this car . so everyone can drool over a low mileage loyale

Good Gawd...Subieporn

Got to do a GM alternator swap to light all thoes lights..oh and power the subwofer

Thanks T Dawg...you rock

oh those are perfect, they leave the springs (coils) open to cool, wow nice thats what they look like all new and pretty .. lol

yes yes yes , subaru was ahead of its time on many things

Make it so number one

if your timing is in question don't spray starting fluid (ether) while cranking the engine. unless you like the singed eyebrow look..

the grey stuff is a ceramic paint to keep the coils from shorting together ,thus decreasing the coils resistance. it doesn't necessarily need to go all the way across, unless its real broken up, do you have a pic.?

. "the only thing that upset me was that they only had one exhaust gasket in stock " HAHAHAHHAHAHA ...genius

they come on ebay from time to time, you should post on the "subaru parts wanted section" you would get a better result... the local junk yard around here has them. in michigan http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=37

ive made 1 inch spacers out of a scrap piece of uhmw plastic , 1 inch of lift didnt effect the camber at all. i was trying to fit some 195-65-15 blizzaks under the car, it worked fine, ill see if i can get pics. i just used a band saw and a drill mounted hole saw to fab them..

i agree with "subarule" i used marvels in my crankcase engine oil, 1/2 quart or so run the engine till its warm, like 10 miles or so, than change the oil and filter... the lifter tick usally happens to my loyal ea82 engines if i short start them.. ie like driving them a couple of miles to work. they build up condensation from not fully warming them up, thus creating sludge . a good long run and they quiet down..

ok stupid question but. where is the link to donate via pay pal ?? thanks in advance

do you have any pics ? is it the inside pipe or just the outer shroud

Damn no rust in the spare tire well either. nice