archemitis

rx is cool because, as a rule, it always came with all that good stuff. so if you see an rx, you can bet its got a turbo, and dual range, and all that. you could probably find the same car with the same options called a gl. but some gls came with carbs, so not all gls are as cool as the could be. and you could never get an rx with a 6 cylinder, thats where the coolness of the xt6 comes in.

is it a vac operated distributor? is it a flapper maf? is so its the olderstyle, with the vac operated knock sensor, and no fuel cut. afaik.

i've had huge success with welding plates between the two pieces of metal, and making them solid.

low end torque! that and they never thought that heat shield would rust away. so when it was new, it looked like it had some desent sized exhuast.

i sure am glad zap likes these wusssy legacies now, so i dont have to see that nice looking avitar in the old gen forum.

now that i think about it... a guy at redline told me to run the atf redline fluid in the 5 speed, forever.

id expect since your rig is light weight, even tho you have no lift cranked in, you still have your more angle on it than we would with stock weight. i cranked them all the way on my ea81, and it worked fine, till i put the er27 in there, then it twisted them apart, in couple days. thats the main reason i lifted it, to keep the axles damn near straight across. morganms rear is pretty much straight... but then its hard to visualize 14degrees being very much at all...

ok, not to sound all high and mighty, i do some ghetto stuff from time to time. but zip ties, and cotter pins wont to the job the roll pin does. they move around on those splines enough with the pin in there, and its a tight fit. i've never had any problem removing them, or installing them =/

hrm... its a brat, youhave a whole bed. why a rack? roll cage/rack would be cool... the factory ones i have seen use holes drilled in the roof. morganm has a toole rack that uses the rain gutters over the windows, to clamp to

theres no carbon in there, its just metal shavings, i dont think you realy need to clean it out. just drain it. and fill it with good oil, usualyhelps alot. i have mobil1 gearlube inone of my 5 speeds. and i have redline in my 4 speed. some 5 speeds just suck forever tho, i have one that wont go into first untill your completely stopped, even with double clutching.

how much weight do we need for our 200-2500lb cars? is 2000 lbs enough, or do we need more. mud is about the only thing i realy need it for. and for pullin morganm out =x

oh ya, you'll need longer bolts, and some sort of spacer, to kick the top of the shock out towards the tire, half inch, or less. depends on hammering =]

kurt the number is from checker 20802 22-0802-0 do you have one of those books with shocks in it? they usualy have a page that tells all the specs for all of the stock shocks. thats how i decided to order these. its from like a 75 chevell, the big ones =] not what they turned into in the 80s

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31677 build that thing first. with a 2 inch i bet you dont even have to build a steering extension. the rest is just 2 or 3 inch blocks, and longer bolts. also http://www.subarubrat.com its kinda hard to find the lift stuff, but its all in there. and get readin in this forum in general, its all here.

i dont think you can hurt it pulling it together. i did some pretty c razy stuff with trannies, and long bolts when i was younger, and never broke anything. you cant even push the pilot bearing in further if you jab it with the tranny like a ramrod. sounds like a clutch cable thats too long... was that possibly the oiriginal problem?

pulling it together with the bolts is fine. if the clutch was backwards you would hear alot of grinding, as the springs would be hitting the flywheel bolts. i dont think its realy possible to bolt it together backwards, its all so close to begin with, and the bulge goes towards the springs on the pp. mess with the cable. clarify disengage... just so i know. you mean you cant put it in gear, and hold in the clutch, without moving?

personaly, id never take an ej offroad. too spensive to fix stuff you break, and you;ll never go where an ea would go.

i think im gonna do the air shocks on my dads rig, since he doesnt want to gut his interior =p

a wet disty will hurt more than a little water in the carb

my girlfriend changed hers in the dark with a flashlight, in about 20 minutes.

i plug all three and never look back. the computer never knows the difference.

mine sounded like a shotgun, fireball too. it was either a big hole in the exhaust just behind the first cat, or a loose timing belt.

i took a nalgene bottle, and ran my breather hoses to a t. drilled two holes in the top. shoved the breather hose in one hole, and stuck one of those ricer filters in the other hole. my motor doesnt have much blow by at all, but i had about a half a cup in there after 500 miles, mostly water from this cold weather. some oil. i use it on na cars to keep my intake from getting filled with oil and dirt/carbon.

i did this instead of making a shock extender. so for 30 bucks you get rid of that extender.

ya, thats why i avoided welding anything to the strut cap.