archemitis

and then they stopped doing it. its alot easier to push fuel than pull it, and if you ever ran out of gas, i bet it would be tough to get it primed again. shorter pump life, if nothing else... you sure as heck cant do that with a high pressure efi pump.

i seem to remember miles fox complaining about the loss of power between the carb block, and the high comp block with spfi.

under the hood wont work... its gotta be close to the tank.... i have two subarus with the efi pump in the cab, where morganm mentioned. if you still want your rear seats however(some people do, believe it or not), youd have to cut out the seat underneath to make room for the pump. i use a towel to keep mine quiet =].

doood. it would suck so bad. youd think you had a 4 cylinder. compression is power. plain and simple. youd get worse gas mileage also, maybe alot worse. why not open up the heads with a die grinder. theres metal in there that could be removed to promote better flow, and in turn get your compression ratio down.

i think mines a tad too long. i lengthened the ea82 one to be 4 inches longer than my ea81 piece... i might have to try again with the ea81.

sounds like a glasspack is what you need.

or pull your heads, do some measuing of cubic centimeters. do some math. and remove a few ccs fromt he heads. then you got the flat top pistons(better cross flow from exh valve to int valve) and the lower comp. if i was gonna do it, id take it down to about what subaru had, but not quite that low.

yar! turbo and na computers and wiring are the same! =]

basic wiring... just look at both. power to lights, and sending unit wires is all it is.

see, you need to get out of that old school forum every once in a while.

morganms rig runs the big meats, 29s! i spun them on accident, cuz he told me to "floor it"

yar, stabin the disty can drive you crazy.

i put a cowl induction hood scoop on mine for that very reason. it made a big diference, in stop and go, and cruisin down the highway. get the old z scoop put a small heater core underneath it, with a computer fan on it. plumb it in after your heater, so you still have hot heat. or an oil cooler. but first make sure there are no leaks. a bad radiator cap can make you overheat on the highway. did you mean you had a 2.2 engine swaped in, or a legacy 2.2 radiator in there?

the biggest one that came on the turbo charged t birds. a bit bigger, due to the larger motors they ran. its an ihi you gotta mess with the compressor housing, and wastegate stuff, but its doable. im sure there are several others people know about.

thats on an xt6 right? thats optical. hes got the old vac operated carb style one... i've heard you tell this story before, but i always doubted that the timing realy did that to your car. wanna send me that big six disty? maybe i can disect it, and see why mine is spitting a code 11.

just dont pull it out and start turning the motor. its a hell of alot better to be just one tooth off... compared to one tooth, and 180degrees off.

i bet it spools alot better in low range. not like the rx low range. your talkin real offroad dual range right... i bet its alot better than an ea81 =x

your avatar hurts my dailup... but your problem ended up being an alternator, right?

pretty safe to say your a tooth off. its not hard to do. try one tooth forward and one tooth back. or your two wires off of the disty, to the coil are mixed up. or one of the little wires inside the disty has broken, but if its from shawn, im guessing it was assumed to be a good one.

buahahahahahahahaha, are you saying morganms rig is ghetto, or that he beats on it.

copper is better than aluminum... till it corrodes away. i have pulled several aluminum radiators out of gls and loyales. in great conditions. single core i think...

go buy welding cable. 2/0 solder on the copper ends. mine is overgrounded, but it doesnt hurt anything at all. i think i ran 0 guage from the engine bay to the back seat for my battery relocation. ground your o2 sensor, or make sure the exhaust is grouned nicely, not through the studs in the head. fat power cables are just as inportant as fat grounds afaik.

not as much low end torque. and idling a turbo for several minutes at a time, and low speed manuvers heat up the engine compartment faster.

to use an ea81, or an ea82. i think thats what distinguishes them. my ea81 had a single u joint im runing an ea82 with the double u joint, cut in half, and extension welded in. i went with the dual u joint, cuz its easier to lengthen, and 2 must be better than one right? and i thought these things were some hardened, superduper strong piece of engineering. but... since i hacked through it with a hand held hacksaw, as easy as the other mild steel i have lying around, id say its nothing special. and its hollow... anyway, is my asumption that 2 is better than one correct, or would the single u joint piece be stronger?

those are solid axle rigs. our cvs would hinder articulation.