crazyhorse001

95 is one of the best of that generation. With the 2.2 engine and 5spd trans it should, with basic care go to 400,000mi easily. First and foremost, check the tires that they are all the same, and worn evenly. On the test drive, drive it for several miles to get the trans up to temp, the go into a parking lot and do tight figure 8's. It should do them easily at just over idle. If not the center clutch is getting near the end of its life, not a cheap fix. Other than that, check the same basics you would with other cars. Its doubtful, but after the test drive, open the hood, and check the coolant tank for bubbles while its idling. This indicates a bad head gasket.

With the plow body being plastic that shouldnt be a problem. It will flex before it puts enough impact into the car to damage it. Awesome work by the way RED DEVIL

Could be a cracked flexplate as well. Those will definately sound like rod knock, and wont change with engine temp. Also it will be louder in the car, as the engine muffles it.

The rod is probably called actuator rod or something like that. I hate to hear about this, i had a similar situation years ago with a seat eating billy goat. It ticks you off, but it will be funny after awhile.

Im gonna try premium gas first, if it ever uses up the regular in the tank lol Gotta love 40mpg!

What no extra washers? Try boxed end wrenches Put the wrench on, then a washer, then the nut. Pry away on the wrench then tighten the nut, repeat til you can get the cone/flat washers in

Being a n/a mpfi, im not sure if it has one or not. i know the turbo version has one. Its an 87.5 if that helps

My new xt is plagued with spark knock, pinging, or detonation, whatever ya wanna call it Being a spider ea, is this a timing issue i can fix with a light, or is there a special "secret handhake" i need to know to set base timing? Just asking cause i know some cars you hafta disable the electronic advance. Timing components, ignition components, filters, are all new. Thanks in advance (pun intended lol)

Look at the exhaust pipe. It may be as simple as a kink not letting it breathe properly. If the engine light is on, most chain auto parts stores will read the codes for free. get them, then post back up, we'll help all we can

So we all have stories of our severly wounded subaru getting us home. My 97 lego with a broken front cv, mu hatchy nearly rusted in half getting my wife and i to our wedding on time are examples of this. So lets hear 'em! Pix are always a bonus

Even though you aren't getting the 95, one key piece of info. The outbacks, and lsi, with auto trans all got the ej25, the rest were ej22's. Not sure if the brighton 5spd was still available with the ej18 or not.

New axles installed today. Tags and insurance tomorrow, and she's good to go

Ea subarus tick because the lifters need a constant strong supply of oil. #1 culprit of lifter tick is the oil pump seal. When it gets old, it can allow air to be sucked into the pump, foaming the oil. It makes sense that the tick will sometimes go away after warmup, because heat swells the seal stopping the air. With the turbo, you also have 2 oil lines going to the turbocharger. the return line can crack causing more air in the system. Seafoam is great to clean the oil, and fuel systems, glad to see you took that step. For the hard start/idle issue, you REALLY need to find where that open vacuum line goes. There should be a diagram under the hood somewhere. Beyond that, a Haynes repair manual has good pictures, and diagrams in it. Best $20 you'll spend on your Subie. If it still has a starting issue afte fixing the vacuum we can help with that. The delayed start, thats a common issue too. You need to have a relay installed to get more power to the starter. Search "starter relay", that will give you several how to threads to get you pointed in the righ direction. Keep us informed

I have an xt with a 6 in it already Im gonna dig on it with the ea and enjoy keeping it running with minimum fuss. If i wanna go fast i'll drive my svx lol

Now THAT would be some trick lol

Pretty sure its an xt only thing called a "spider" intake

The e-brake light is a switch on the lever. If the lever is down, the light is off. The brake can still be stuck on.

If the ecu is shortening the inj pulsewidth, then for some reason it believes its overfueling. Check the tps, and make SURE you have a smooth transition from low to high ohms. They can develop a dead spot at cruise. The maf MAY also be the culprit. If at all possible swap it with a known good one. Id mention the o2 sensor, but you've already changed that. Double check the wiring harness to the o2 anything that runs near the exhaust can get bad places in the wiring. Maf should be able to be read by a meter. A smooth swing from 5v to i think .5 v from a lo at idle to hi at wot. More air=more volts. Personally its easier to find a good one and swap to see if the hesitation goes away. A maf is basically a heater element, and a thermocouple, and should read as such with your trusty meter. Kudos to your advanced troubleshooting skills tho!

Any idea of production numbers of those DOHC heads? Did any make it to america? Those look museum quality! They'd look sweet in my XT GL *evil grin*

An oak 4x4 block, a socket, penetrating oil, and a bfh Soak the splines in your favorite penetrating oil, i reccomend aerokroil, let it sit overnite. Put the nut on backward, almost but not flush. Put the socket over it, then using the wood to protect it, frail the crap out of it with a bfh. If this doesnt get it to budge in several good whacks i reccomend the puller method mentioned above.

ANY clunking in the steering is a bad thing. Do you have slop or play in the steering wheel as well? If so your rack is going bad. PLEASE have it checked immediately! Two areas i dont skimp on are brakes and steering. The life i save may be my own *EEK*

I like to use my plastic "T" handle allen wrench to punch the pins out. If the wrench gets stuck, you have the nice handle to pull it out with lol Just dont use too small of a punch, as it will get VERY stuck in the hollow pin. Shouldnt have to "drive" the pin as much as tap it thru. Its snug, but shouldnt be that solid. Worst case, you use a drill to cut the roll pin out.

Theres a switch on the clutch pedal where its all the way down to start. If the pedal isnt all the way down, and the switch made...no starter. Thats where i'd start looking. Edit the cruise switch is at the top of the travel. It makes with a slight movement of the pedal. The other one will make at the bottom of the travel.

Did you tear the boot? If so tie rod ends arent expensive. Like $15-20, not too hard to install either. Measure from the sleeve to the center of the joint, then install the new ones to that measurement. That will get you a decent driveway alignment, which will let you get it to a shop no problem. Meantime, if you HAVE to drive it, you can band aid the boot for a couple weeks till you can get tie rod ends. Thats if the mechanics of the rod are still tight. I wouldnt do that unless i had no choice tho. broken tie rods are no fun. You become a passenger with a steering wheel *eek*

If its THAT stuck, you're probably gonana mangle the tierod end anyway. You can get a proper removal tool from most parts store loaner tool programs. Its a mini press that will force it out gently.