subaruplatt

I think that also the torque converter will not lock either until it's warmed up a little.

No one got hurt and as safe as it was, it is after all just a car.

After the last few months i really! believe in subarus 5 Star crash rating. I would also like to thank my lucky Stars.

Nope! Subaru drove away without alignment issues. Buick went on the flatbed.

Some of you may recall that our Impreza was in an accident only a few months ago. Monday we got rear ended on the QEW near the ford motor plant. The Subaru will probably need a new bumper foam insert, maybe a skin and definitely the license plate wiring harness is loose from it's two mounting screws. I'm not sure does the rear hatch door look like it lines up with the rear fenders properly to you ? The Buick that hit us doesn't look so good though. It was was driven by an 83 year old Lady who zoned out at the wheel. Just bad luck I guess.

They are made of Chromed Whitish grey cast metal.

Update..... I went outside to re-torque the nuts thinking I could loosen an re-torque the nuts one at a time to 50 ft/lbs and then follow up with the 80 ft/lbs setting in a star pattern. Normally this would have been no big deal. What happened was one of the theft protection locking wheel nuts from subaru snapped and I was unable to loosen that nut. So of I went to the garage and had them remove the 4 cheesy cast aluminum locking wheel nuts and replace them with the 4 regular steel ones that came with the car. The mechanic said that an additional one snapped getting them off. Was -2 c outside but that shouldn't have made a difference. One could just as easily get a flat in the winter.

Recently had some steel snow tire wheels put on. I'm pretty sure the guys who mounted them just used an impact gun not a torque wrench. I would like to re-torque them evenly to prevent rotor warp but I don't want to go to the Garage as I don't have the proper jack. Can I just loosen them somewhat and re-torque them with a torque wrench myself while the car is still on the ground?

Home today. Waited till 3:00 to go for a drive. Lovely snow storm here in toronto. New snow tires seem to be good. (Sava eskimo). Backed straight in to a foot high snow covered parking space without drama and the only worry was looking for the curb. More winter yet to come! Second winter with subaru.

http://www.subaru.ca/WebPage.aspx?ArticleID=460&WebPageID=4998&WebSiteID=282 Subaru Active All-Wheel Drive varies the power split according to driving conditions. Under most conditions, 60 per cent of the engine torque is transferred to the front wheels and 40 per cent to the rear; this is to match the vehicle’s weight distribution.

Not calling any one a liar. The folks who espouse the 90/10 are calling Subaru a liar not me. Nipper in a sense I would agree with You. The front is normally pulling the car around at 1.5x the rear. This saves wear and tear on the clutch pack and imparts certain handling characteristics which are safe and predictable, if not boring. The 60/40 thing is as subaru has stated. The 90/10 thing is also true but only to enhance breaking and cornering performance. Mostly I would think to discourage rear wheel lock up. Under normal circumstances the computer allows a controlled amount of torque to be transmitted by varying the friction coefficient of the clutch pack to push up to two fifths of the vehicle from the rear. Other Subaru cars which do 45/55 have 7 clutch plates or something while the 60/40 ones have 5. I found the rest from Subaru. Active All-Wheel Drive is used on all Subaru models powered by the naturally-aspirated four-cylinder boxer engine and equipped with the four-speed automatic transmission, as well as on the turbocharged Forester 2.5L XT equipped with this transmission. An electronically managed continuously variable transfer clutch actively manages power distribution and ensures that the wheels with the best traction receive more power. Power transfer is governed by slippage in the clutch plates.The Transmission Control Module (TCM) controls the multi-plate transfer clutch. Active All-Wheel Drive can adjust the power split in an instant, depending on many input factors. If the front wheels begin to slip, the TCM increases hydraulic pressure on the transfer clutch, reducing slippage of the plates and transferring the power to the rear wheels. As the front wheels regain traction, the TCM reduces pressure on the clutch, increasing slippage of the plates and transferring power to the front. The TCM monitors input from speed sensors on the front and rear drive shafts and also takes input from the throttle position and the transmission. All of these factors cause the TCM to select a software strategy that determines how aggressively it adjusts the power distribution. Active All-Wheel Drive varies the power distribution according to driving conditions. When throttle input signals acceleration, the system responds by transferring more power to the rear wheels to account for rearward weight transfer. When releasing the throttle indicates deceleration, power transfers to the front wheels to enhance braking performance. The system enhances cornering performance as well. When the driver lifts off the throttle and applies the brake to enter a turn, power transfers to the front wheels for greater steering control. As the car exits the turn and accelerates, power transfers to the rear wheels for added traction.

Pardon me if this post seems rambling. Topic pertains to 06-07 maybe earlier non vdc 4eat transmisions. I'm not sure how to calculate a friction coefficient. Isn't an effective end to end friction coefficient what the clutch pack is varying? What would the value be to achieve 60/40torque biasing? What would be the value for 100% lock up and what would be the value for 0% lock up? Subaru claimed a 60/40 torque bias on the recently made automatic 4eat transmissions. Did they lie? Why is it that there are so many people saying that it is really only 90/10? Do those people just really hate autos? Did subaru change this bias from 90/10 to 60/40 after a certain date ? What is the truth and who can prove it?

I changed this post a little when I actually got down and read the tiny print on the rims. I was misled by the description I saw on the bill. They are actually 6.5 " The rims are only 50 mm offset as compared to the supposed 55 mm that came with the car. I think they are from a Saab as I saw a "saabaru" wagon driving around with them on yesterday. The Sava Snow tires remain the stock 205/55 HR 16. The change in offset is only 5 mm. But the driving experience is fine. Anybody out there use these rims before? Looking around on the net I found it almost impossible to find any info on subaru steel wheels. I am actually amazed that my tire guy found them. I would recommend the overall combination. These wheels are hub centric. What is the difference between j and jj?

I had ABS save me during a high speed pile up, I actually drove right around it. I have been saved by non ABS setups by good tires. I mean literally standing on my brakes so hard that my rear wheels almost came off the ground. A good ABS setup won't even engage as long as you still have traction. I would drive it the same as if it weren't there. Used to creep along on sheer ice with my old VR6 and the ABS would operate at any speed I mean 1 mph. Then I realized how sophisticated ABS really was. So now they have ESP. Sort of an ABS ruder. In the real world a combination of outfitting, maintenance, tires, ABS, and driving might save your Bacon.

As for the Eskimo S3, it looks like it would be a decent winter tire. If they are really cheap I would give them a try. It has all the right things to do well. Open tread pattern, lots of sipes, and directional tread pattern. If you get them let us know how they are.Keith Got them on this morning! 16/55/205 Sava Eskimo S3 on 16/7 inch steel wheels 50 mm offset. Driving home with them gave me a very good first impression. Ride is much smoother than the brigestones. Handling is very good! Fan like "wrrr" when churning through slush or water. . Reasonably quiet when dry. Were predictable on the highway during lane changes crossing frozen slush. -4c I was curious to see how a 91 load rating compared to an 87 load rating tire? The car feels taller, more solid, which I attribute to a change in load rating and or in wheel offset and rim thickness. Or is it just the much smoother ride that I'm feeling from these new tires?

I found this Chart that says 50mm offset or higher is OK. http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/wheels.html

Give 'em a try and let us know!!!! Well Looks like We're getting the Eskimos. Had to have them after hearing the name :-) They should get installed sometime next week. One Question. Apparently the 16" steel rims with a 55 mm offset are unavailable. I am told that a 16 inch rim with a 50 mm offset will work. Any thoughts on this?

I agree that kuhmo tires are value leaders but. The Good Year Sava Snow tires are ranked up with tires that are nearly twice the price. So that shoots down your performance and your price arguments. And they are an anomaly in they are made in Slovenia, which is where the original Sava brand came from. http://www.sava-tyres.com/eng.htm

Just got off the phone with my tire guy and he had some interesting info. He tried to steer me away fro the Nokian WR but when hard pressed he didn't have any real experience with them. He said I could buy a set and try them. The reason most people find snow tires mushy feeling (especially the blisaks)is that they don't get the H rated ones, which are of course more expensive. He also recommended Good year sava tires, which he said were in the same league as Blisak Michelin the dunlop and Nokian rsi. Am I on to something here? These are almost half the price of the rest of the top rated tires.

Does the Nokian WR really suffice as a snow tire? I am thinking to use them only in the winter so I can make them last a while Say 5-10 years. Thinking about doing this near december. I am thinking that this is a reasonable price. Any comments?

205/55R16 Nokia WR All Weather $159.00 Installed and balanced. Black steel rims $49.00 etc Thats $948.48 tax in including steel wheels. And you get to deal with Tire Mag. I really love the guys, this would make my forth tire-set purchase from them. What do you think? Tires $636 Rims $196 Tax $116.48 total $948.48

2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5 i 4dr Wagon AWD -replaced the rs 2005 Quite similar. No problems so far. Love it. Very Safe car. One of the cheapest "real" cars on the road.

A new feature in the 08 impreza is to shift the car into neutral automatically after the brake has been depressed for a brief period of time while the shifter remains in drive. This is a known subaru trait and is useful in an all wheel drive car that you don't want to roll backwards on icy uphill parking ramps etc. So putting your car into neutral at stop lights is normal, just don't forget. It would also appear that the generalized article you read on torque converters doesn't exactly apply to Subaru.

I personally like amsoil. Try this product finder I found. https://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa.dll?amsoiloaf:index