TheLoyale

When did this turn into the "Spotted" thread?

Did you ever find out if your Disty is turning??

Rust proofing, Restoring, Rock Guarding EA82.

Yep, that is how my Dad wires in trailor lighting, Solder is the best way to make sure nothing gets in.

I have tried Polishing and Rubbing compounds, it cleans it up some, but its not shiney like the rest. I have also waxed it with no results. Figure if I sand it with 2000 grit and then re-clear it, that should work.

I have just used up one can so far, and thats painting lower part of door, Rocker, rear panel and the engine bay. I have found that this Clear is CRAP, I am going to buy NASON clear, which I can get at my other Autobody place, it works so much better as I have used it in the past. I think I will have to sand down the door and rear panel and re-shoot them with the new clear. F*cking bullSh*t.

Nope, the wires were spliced into the left tail light with connectors, that was sure not a U-Haul install for sure.

EA82 does not have a Cam sensor. And I think only Turbo EA82s had crank sensors (Correct me if I'm wrong)

Finished painting the rocker and rear door jam, next up will be fixing everything on the driver side.

Change in tires. These are most so available and about the same price, plus they are a better compound. Potenzas! http://www.tirerack.com/tires/BigPic.jsp?sidewall=Blackwall&tireMake=Bridgestone&tireModel=Potenza+G+019+Grid&partnum=26VR6G019&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

The 3ft. piece of wire is a proven method, I have used it a few times, it works great.

Hell yeah! Man that is looking awesome. Thats some major Doctor-Ill right there. New battery, how many CCA?

Please, I know when his problem started, as he PMed me to look at his thread since no one else had any ideas. I am aware of what he took off and what he did. By removing the air box/MAF and anything in the surrounding area, that is not going to cancel out the spark. I am thinking there a few things going on here and not caused by one issue.

Well I believe on the EA82 the disty controls the circut as well, and the belt may not be broke, but may be missing teeth causing it not to fire. Thats what I found on a '93 Turbo sedan, the belt was missing teeth, but crackned normal. Tip to you, leave the belt covers off...

Timing belts still good?

I think it will turn out good, and I like how a can of seafoam makes it into the picture

Thanks, I am going to need a new RX grille soon, I messed up the paint on this one and theres no way to sand it down and fix it.

Aha, now that we have that settled.

Touched up the engine bay and POR'ed the ledge.

I was unable to get the SP-60s, as the warehouse which had them, sold them out from DLS tire center even after he placed the order. So, I am going to get these in the next week or so. They are cheeper which is a plus! http://www.onlinetires.com/products/vehicle/tires/nexen/225%252F60-16+nexen+n5000+97h++bsw.html

Before: After:

I have now removed the rubber seal which clips to the top of the firewall without ripping it or breaking the clips. I have also removed the two plastic air vents directly under the windsheild. Turns out there was no rust forming in the seams as I thought there might have. I applied some rust converter inside the well/seals and will also apply POR-15 to seal it and prevent rust.

Fox, That is what I did, I wet sanded with 1500 grit instead of a scotch-brite, it faded the paint line pretty good as I ain't no pro, I then blended it with more paint. Rear 1/4

Did you use the "Match-It" clear? I do, and I don't like it either, the paint was shinier then the clear WTF. That trans look perty moist, I say clean it up and clear it.

I don't understand how to blend in tap-off lines into the original paint now that it is dry and set. Tips please...? Fox, you would probably have some input. Wet sand it with 1500 grit?