TheLoyale

I still have both cats, but run an UEL header. I just removed the air box resonator. I took it apart and thought there was more to it lol. Not what I was expecting. I have the stock air box. How would you run a cone filter on there anyway? How would the MAF flange bolt up?

There is no wiring for the Maplight stuffed in the roof, it would run under the dash, up the A-pillar and over to the roof. Thats why I tapped into the 12v power from the dome light. You will only find two tapped holes for the Maplight mounting screws.

What is the gain in hollowing out the air intake box? Is it less restrictive, giving the engine better response? I notice sometimes when I stand on it, it'll pause for a second and slowly rev up. Is this from the air box? I might hollow it out and see what its like then.

The 2nd one is for the 4WD. At least on a push botton 4WD car, but that only applies for the SPFI N/A EA82 (Not the EA82 Turbo)

Depends some manufactures are hard to retro fit other stuff to. Subarus are very easy to do with them what you will. Its fun!

Thats the one thing thats great about Subarus, if you didn't get a factory option, put on in! Its all plug'N play!

Looks like an EA81 pump to me.

Just don't park in the Ghetto and walk away, 10 seconds, and the whole block can see whats inside.

In order to have the lights fade out, you could rig up a center light from a Kia Rio (And any other car which has that) as its on the dome light its self. You could probably make your own with a resister and compassitor or something.

Like the family dog, or my 24" King Kong dong.

If you look at the interior picture closely, you can see the picture shows a 3AT shifter cause the 4WD button is on the side Vs. on top of the shifter. So, is this car really a M/T? hmm.

I bet you could use that switch, if not. Pop that one out and stick in the one you have. Easy.

Ok, The Outback cargo light uses a larger wedge bulb (Not a 194) its bigger I forgot the number. The Maplight, uses 194s and they push in straight up.

But my thought on it is, getting a battery that is huge compared to whats in it, would put a strain on the Charging system. Its only a 60amp alt.

I've heard it being called the "EGR Purge Solenoid" you have the dealer look at the EGR system for the EA82 and it'll bring it up on the screen. You can bypass it with a (33ohm resister) I think its 33ohm. Anyone else have a refresher?

Should have taken out the car door "Bonzi!"

Well if you don't get the stuff on your skin, you should be ok. Don't breath the fumes. Backing plates, everyones talking about backing plates. Mine have long crubbled away.

I have never had any issues with this, some worry rocks or sticks might get in there and snap a belt, but I have never had that issue, nor has anyone else who swears by Coverless. You could just remove the front covers and leave the rear, it will kinda protect the belt a little more with still allowing easy and quick access to the.

Cuts a 2-hour timing belt job, down to 30-45min. You can change these on the side of the road if needed. Plus you can inspect the belts and tensioners periodically.

You will want to run 85w-90 in both diffs. Doesn't matter what brand, gear oil is gear oil. Don't worry about asking questions, thats what this place is for and thats how you get to know your car.

+100 to coverless!

WOW thats working awesome!

Yep, I'll agree with that. These EJs are uber quiet with a good muffler, needless to say that had to come off of mine cause it was too quiet. :-p

Abuot 1" or so.

Rocker panels would be good to seal up along with the subframe rails. Also the rear side pockets (Where the rear washer tank bottle is) and of course like you said the wheel wells. Right where the top of the rear struts bolt they like to rust out right there. You could also coat your rear trailing arm with that to keep it from rusting, they tend to rust from the inside out, but it'll help. Cheers, -Tom