TheLoyale

Pics! ?

Yep, thats the typical issue with the covers. The sleave is only pressed in and has a rough mating surface. But with age thye break loose and the bolt gets stuck. Sometimes the bolt can be very hard to unscrew from the sleave (I tested one old one I had once) Had to use a vise and about 15lbs of force to break the bolt loose. You can always leave the rear half of the covers on (Like I did) it helps keep stuff out. I don't know to many folks that have had issues with stuff getting onto the belts (Rocks etc) If you really want to run th covers, you can zip-tie them on if you still have a few holes that aren't broken off. -Tom

Check out Grip-tite wrenches and sockets, Sears carries them as well. I so want to buy a set of them!

Yea I like that post too, One of the best bits on info in this thread and very easy to do!

If you dripping oil its either coming from the Oil Pump seal and O-ring (Micky Mouse seal) or the cam seals/o-rings (Or both) this will cause lower oil pressure, or your sending unit on the front of the oil pump is getting old. If you going to do Timing belts then since you are in there, I would get a new waterpump and seal, New By-pass hose for the top of the waterpump, New oil pump and seal kit, Fel-pro Cam carrier seals, and new Timing tensioners (If yours sound like Skateboard wheels, it is time to replace them) Check out Rockauto for this stuff, or you can get a Timing kit off ebay for $120 IIRC. If you do all this, then you will have no worries with this engine for a long time. Also, leave the timing covers off, makes it way easier to re-tension the belts and check them. Plus next time you replace them, you don't have to pull the Crank pulley. If your oil pan gasket has some sepage, just torque the bolts a little and see if it helps. Cheers, -Tom:)

Reminds me of when I did mine, except mine are longer

I haven't had a problem with either of my Autos, 3AT has 116,567. 4EAT has 210,786.

Oh totally, Put an 17mm wrench on the nut sidd, and loosen the bolt with the breaker bar. I wasn't sure what tool you were using.

You should be able to just push it out, mash down the boot and tap it out. So your breaker bar was found... Ummm, In the Kitchen?

This has nothing to do with the thread, but it is my thread, so I'll post in it what I'l like. Lol

Haha, it took you 4 autos to make up your mind wether you wanted a 5spd! I think after the 2nd trans faild, I would question my driving habits with the auto Thats one nice SS, those wheels look good on there!

Yes, I live by that. I have twisted the heads off hot bolts to many times. I hate when you just feel it give, your like OMFG! As for the camber bolts in the rear, I am pretty damn sure they were, I am trying to remember, but I think they did have a lump on one side. I do remember marking them for a reason. All this stuff looked factory too, I don't think anyone ever took this car to a shop or the dealer for servicing

I hope to god your are joking LOL! Yeah, why not just rev it up to 5000rpm and drop it in drive Talk about "Boom!"

Thanks, I just read it and wow thats a cool idea. Thank you again! I will have to give that a go. -Tom

Oh wow, this is one great idea! Thanks for posting it! -Tom

Yeah I know a 5spd is the way to go, Maybe some day eh.. Once this 4EAT takes a crap (If it ever will) Oh wait, maybe I have to drive my car like all these other dumb kids, making the trans work very hard to shift, I always make sure the tranny wants to engauge smoothly even at red-line shifts, I will back off the throttle just a fraction so it will glide in rather then struggle. I hear a lot of dumb kids drive past my house and just how they don't treat their car well. This kid that lives kiddie-corner from me has a '01 Mirrage sedan with a fart-can on it, he trys to make it sound like its stick, he'll punch it then back way off the gas then hit it hard again (For a delay sound) thats not the way you treat an auto, your making it work extra hard that way DUMB KIDS, OMG!

That is possible. I have learned something new today

No mine was stock, no one has ever touched the struts on this car. Maybe its an Outback thing?

Its the magic of Administration

I'd say my 0-60 is about 8sec (Not to the floor)

What do you mean the rear isn't cambered? Mine is, werid. Well, heat it up good spary some deep creep on it and give it hell

Ben, An UEL header will increase the bottom end torque and off the line responce, some say you loose some top end power, but it feels like it has more guts now then it did. Also removing the muffler has greatly improved top end power. I think getting a larger Diameter mid-pipe (2 or 2-1/2") might give a bit more pull.

The only models to offer the EA82 were the 1985-94: Loyale/GL/DL Sedans and Wagons (Not Hatchs) RX 3-door coupe and 4-door Sedans The hatch had the EA81 up untill '89 or whenever the last Hatch was made (Varies per country)

So many of you know about Trashwagon10, the 210,000 '95 Legacy Duel-port EJ22 4EAT with an UEL header. I am looking to bump up the passing power of the engine somehow. I can go from 60 to 80mph pretty quick, and I have had this car up to 100mph once, but would like to feel a little more pull while having my foot down. What is there to do besides a stepped up Delta Cam? Is there a worthy chip or are those just bull? Maybe changing the Mid-pipe? Looking for something I haven't thought about or have heard of. Open to all ideas -Tom

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