TheLoyale

I will have to disagree with the last statement I have removed the EGR off both my EA81 and my Landcruiser, and have not had any issues with Timing, or pinging. In-fact, I have seen a gain in MPG. I have also seen a decrease with Carbon build up. That is just my observation on that topic. Cheers, -Tom

Dual 12" fans mounted to the Radiator. Now I just need to do the wiring and get some pics.

No worries on multiple threads. You could post the link to either thread you want, into whichever thread. This way it'll tie the two threads together, more or less. EA81 Bent Pushrod Thread:

If you have any questions about the Weber swap and or routing of anything. let me know. Since I just did everything to my '83, its still fresh. Cheers man! -Tom

In reply to your other thread. Its possible all this carbon was due to the EGR valve. I've seen EGR systems do horrible things to the top end. Removing the EGR will be the best thing you'll do (Besides the Weber swap) Cheers!

I'll have to check out your other thread, so I can keep up with both

As for everyones assumptions about how the rod became bent. I find it hard to believe this would have been RPM related. Even if the Tac was not working or doesn't have one in the car. You would have to surpass 8000rpm or more to do any harm. I've seen these motors beat on to an unbelievable degree, and never seen one blow. Buddy of mine, had an '82 Brat (Which was rotted out horribly) This was before I knew him, anyway, He bought it out of a Junkyard for $50. Beat the ever loving hell out of that car, and after the shock mounts in the bed rotted thru, he junked it (Again lol) before he did that, He would go down the road in 4th (70mph) jam it in 1st in Low-range, RPMS were so high, the Tac went all the way around to 2000rpm. Even after all that, crashing into a car in the junkyard, ran out of coolant and oil. It was still running when he left it. EA81 is the most durable motors Subaru ever made.

Looking at those pistons, I am really surprised this thing wasn't pinging like crazy when James was driving it. All that carbon is gonna cause pre-ignition like crazy.

Here is a link to the single style Temp sender. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Coolant-Temperature-Switch-BECK-ARNLEY-201-0429-/261786955094?hash=item3cf3b7ed56&vxp=mtr

Clashing Pistons and Valves would be pretty impossible. Its Non-interference. Unless the Keeper popped off, dropping the Valve into the cylinder bore. Anyway! The Thermo switch on your intake, is probably just like the one that was on mine. It sends signal to the ECM, depending on Engine temp, it may cause vac leaks thru the VSVs and such, To richen or lean the engine. But since you're gonna run a Weber, you can replace your Thermo switch, with a single terminal kind, so it just operates the Temp Gauge. That is what I did. I'll find the switch for you on eBay.

Have a look at this post. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147986-my-83-gl-coupe-hardtop-sss/?p=1291485

As for removing the A/C system without loosing charge. Nope. No matter what, you will have to disconnect the lines which run into the Firewall.

If you need to plug the EGR pipe hole thats in the Head and in the Intake. Brass plugs from Menards or Homedepot will work perfect. Thats what I put on mine. I'll look into my thread and see what Size I used. Also, use some thread sealant.

Down along side the battery tray, is where mine like to go Its kinda outstanding the amount of hardware you find, when you start taking things apart. -Tom

Thats what the USMB is for

Valve float, caused from extremely high RPMs and weak valve springs.

I remember James contacted CCR about it, but got shrugged off. I'm kinda curious what else happened. A Pushrod doesn't just bend. As for the Weber, did you get a genuine one (Not one of the knock off ones maid in Spain) I agree the Weber is a good option, simple and makes good power. I got mine to make a maximum of 23psi of absolute vacuum. Works perfect! Keen to see more about this car

Is this the wagon that had the CCR EA81 in it? Thats a pretty clean example for sure. Nice snag. Hopefully these Midwest winters won't get the better of this one. Good luck with the Hitachi. They work pretty good once all cleaned up and rebuilt, minus all the emissions feedback junk. I guess there is also more you can do if you have an EA71 Hitachi and EA81 Hitachi and combine them both. One of the Aussie guys on Facebook (Gerard Kleyn) knows whats involved with doing this setup. Perhaps give him a holler. https://www.facebook.com/gerard.kleyn?fref=ts If this were mine, I would clean it up, get it running nice, and drive the hell outta it in the summer. Store it in the winter and keep it for the next 30yrs Perhaps sometime, go with some type of 14" peugeot wheel, or redrill to 6x139 and have any choice of 6-lug wheel you want. It will be easier to get tires in the future. Although, those Alloy honeycomb wheels are pretty nice, Hang onto those for sure! Redrill write-up, if you ever get the inch to do it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128105-offcial-6-lug-re-drill-thread/?do=findComment&comment=1087335

No worries. Spread the word. It will make write-ups easier to find for new folks wandering into the USMB

O2 Sensor will cause lofting. Mass Air Flow sensor could also cause this. Vacuum leak is possible. Perhaps a sticking Idle Air Control valve. Failing EGR Purge Solenoid. Check resistance across all components.

HD video of Turn Signal Modification!

MilesFox, what is the new on Trashwagon10 as of late?

So whats the scoop on everything bud? Anything new?

Update: I am going to wire in Dual 12" thin mount electric fans which push 1720cfm per fan. I am going to utilize the factory thermo-swtich wiring, and run that to a relay which would be direct 12v with a 20amp inline fuse (As the factory fan wiring is only a 15amp fuse factory) Of course all wiring will be soldered and heat shrunk for a professional quality.