davebugs

Yes they should according to the interchange.

This isn't how everyone does it. I ALWAYS pull the engine. Look for marks on the pistons. If any marks I get a different engine. If not it's weasier to work on and I think it's easier to do a better job of surface preperation on the engine, seal the baffle plate(should be aluminum on your engine), oil pump screws Oring, seals, etc. Not to mention the whole torqueing procedure YOU MUST USE SUBY HEAD GASKETS!! Some folks reuse the engine even if piston(s) have marks in them. I generally sell what I fix and don't want any issues (never had any - knock on wood). If it were my personal car I might chance it - but probably not.

When they leak usually it's from the pump itself and there is a little red puddle on top of the engine if you look immediately behind the PS pump.

Love it where we get to GUESS where you're at. Are you in the witness protection plan or something? Welcome to the board but please update your profile. I have a 99 2.5 SOHC from a Forester here that has bad bearings. You're gonna need valve work or another head. Others here may have parts and/or expertise locally as well.

There is a JDM place in Pattersen/Patterson NJ much closer to you. I've still never done a JDM.

Thanks for the pics. That is what I started to remove from the 2.5 and was planning on cleaning and installing on the 2.2. The 2.5 was on the ground so I couldn't see that elusive 3rd bolt and jus tput the engine on the shelf. Now it sounds like the 2.5 and 2.2 aren't interchangable anyways. Perhaps this is tonights project.

I can't believe there isn't a procedure from someone doing this before. If I do it I will take pics. Actually I'd like some help. A second set of eyes, and someone to bounce ideas off of while doing it. In addition to any expertise they may have and documenting abilities. I have a tendence to remember before pictures, and after pictures when doing a project and forget a lot of the pics in between. Especially if my hands are dirty. Also my memory isn't always the greatest and taking notes while working on engines I tend not to do. Thats why I'd like to see if anyone has any interest in assisting me, doing their own at the same time, etc. I believe at this time they'd just need to supply their own engine stand and engine(actually I have engines needing done if they'd like to work on one of those). I normally do everything myself. But I think two heads may be better than one for this project especially since I haven't done it and to be able to document it better.

I'll look today. I haven't seen a pic of the IAC yet. But the PVC is easy. I think we're talking about the gizmo basically under the PCV - but I could be wrong. I started pulling one of a 96 2.5 parts engine yesterday because I had easy access but never got it off. Ran out of time. I had some assistance with garage cleaning (read engine stacking). I'll probably remove one from one of the 97 2.2's that I have to put on the 95 2.2 having the issue.

GG, Thanks for the offer - and I may end up taking you up on it. I'm not big on borrowing tools but it may make sense in this case. If it works and I think I may do this again I can have one made for myself. I haven't decided whether to take on this project yet. But it would be nice to know if your tool might work. Dave

o.k. my memory isn't that great. But it IS the huge thing - like a foot around. IIR the cruise thing is smaller. I'll edit this later if I'm wrong.

Personal preference and value. Personally I get Cardone all metal WP's locally for 50 bucks. Looks suspiciousely the same as Advance's "Signature" series for 55 bucks. Folks have used the Ebay kits WP's - I think they are GMB. I have no experience with them but considering one for next TB job to try. Or I think a dealer WP is like 80 bucks - you can perhaps save money buying it online. I will say this. One time I needed one from Advance(my local place was out of them) and theirs didn't come with an essential gasket - I think it was the thermostat gasket but it had the WP gasket(which I wasn't gonna use anyways). So if you get one of those check the box. I don't know if it was a one time packaging issue or if they don't include them.

This is a 95 2.2 in an OBW that I transplanted. You mean the stiff hose that goes to the airbox that if you forget to connect it the car immediately dies correct? Almost a foot long. I do have ones here on parts engines that had no hesitation. So I could swap if that made sense. Just spraying - engine running or off? I'm assuming off since if it's the hose I'm thinking of the car will die with the hose disconnected.

In my neck of the woods back in the day everyone stocked Gates belts & hoses. I always had good luck with them. Not that we're living in a mostly chain world Dayco seems to be the norm, my local guys also stock them, and I believe theimportexperts sell them as well. I've never had trouble with them on any cars I've installed them on (Subaru, and VW mostly). Some folks prefer a Suby belt - I won't argue but I don't use them. I do use all their seals, Orings and WP gasket, and HG's if needed.

I searched here and endwrench(where I rarely have success searching) looking for a procedure. Anyone have a link handy? I have a car that cuts out for part of a second just off idle - especially when cold. I've never had to clean an IAC before. I may take one of a parts engine and clean it ahead of time. Actually I have ones that I know don't stumble to replace it with but might as well clean it while it's in my hand. Debating how much of the unit needs removed/cleaned, etc. Pics would be great.

Ir's the big round black thing between the master cylinder and the firewall. Has a vacuum line running to it from the intake manifold. SOmeone here recently had a bad hose.

I highly recommend the Suby WP gasket. I buy all metal cardone WP's for 50 bucks but don't like the aftermarket WP gaskets. I saw mention earlier of seals and Orings- I use only Suby. The Idlers/tensioner - ebay kit. Timing belt I happen to use Dayco. Afraid of the Ebay ones (especially on interference engines) and Suby's are pricey. This is the combination that I use for what I consider maximum reliability at a fair price and a complete job.

Thanks for the thoughts so far. I don't mind a challenge - but I'd like to think I'm not stupid. I'm betting parts at the dealer would put this over budget. Not that I have a budget. My local dealer only does the shortblock thing. So they were of little help. I do have a Suby tech that can probably give me a hand. Apparently they learn how to rebuild them in training but then never actually do them at the dealership. I haven't totally redone an engine in years other than VW air cooled's and that has been some time ago and were pretty easy with the jugs and all. The cars I do have between 100 and 200k so getting a new shortblock is out of the budget by the time all the other work is done. Never tried the JDM route. Hate to just get another local 2.5 with 100k and up, do the HG's, TB, idlers, seals, etc then put it in and hear rod knock. I've been that route (twice with the same engine in a 99 Forester 2.5 SOHC). If it's not worth doing I can accept that. Or if someone has done this before and is willing to show others I can offer a place, engines, parts, and hopefully tools. Maybe a few of us can get smartened up a bit?

Searching for a procedure here. Trying to figure out what tools are needed. Guessing at replacing bearings, piston rings, maybe pistons(might as well cure the slap at the same time). Other than a regular HG job I'd have to totally disconnect the intake and oil pan as a start. Sources for the internal parts needed? Stock quality would be fine. Not looking for fancy/high performace just reliability. Do I just plain old need my head examined? I've got about 1/2 dozen 2.5's around here needing HG's or bearings. Thought I might actually try fixing one. All the HG engines also had rod knock(not piston slap, rod knock). How much more time and specialty tools than a HG job? Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

I'd say illegal. Didn't you have to do the HG's on this as well?

That's what I was thinking but didn't know for sure. I know I have a car with the TC lockup solenoid bad and my generic ODBII reader read it.

I definatley resemble that remark but it'll improve here shortly - for how long is the question. I've got similar stashes of parts for air-cooled VW's as well. Complete interiors, chrome bumpers, etc. Garages and sheds are NEVER big enough.

I have stock ones off a 97 that I was gonna Ebay. I already have some pics but I'm out the door to look at another OBW. If you may be interested PM me. Then we can see if they'd work for you.

WHen they go bad they don't leak. Often the fluid gets dirtier because it's probably the rubber coming apart. Same thing as a master cylinder for brakes. Either could be bad. Of not bled properly. I've replaced a dozen slave's and no masters.

If possible I'd position the car in the best position to burp it after you re-add the coolant.

o.k. I spent easter morning with 3 USMB windows open and have 9 pics in my album I'll try and posting some here. Garage is a mess from the winter so I'm digging out , organizing, selling duplicates, etc. There is a lot more stuff than is in the pics in the garage including 6 cars. Then there is sheetmetal, radiators, bumber covers, wheels, etc outside. Ypipes and exhaust stuff in the rafters. I have too much stuff! Perhaps I'll take more pics when it gets cleaned up a bit. Assuming that I get these pics to post properly. First one shows the tarps I use to heat a corner of the 40x40 building. part of the workbench mess: Some engines there are about a dozen or so here for parts: another lift and surroundings pic: More stuff: More stuff including the new cart that isn't loaded down yet: A small shelf of small parts. Two of many: If this gets too big or other issues I'll change it. Never posted pics before. This garage was really setup to work on my antique VW's but last year I didn't get much done to them. Was too busy working on Suby's. Gonna try and balance it out a little better this year. This is a hobby after all. Hey - it looks like it worked! I found some early 90's Legacy wheel centers/lug covers that I'm gonna Ebay. Duplicates(and more) of mirrors, cup holders, starters, alternators, AC compressors, perhaps coil pacs, even heads if worthwhile. Most of what I have is 95 to 99. I do have some stray 92 Legacy, 2001 25 SOHC and just a Ypipe and intake from a 2003 Baja. If you need anything and are willing to part with a few bucks drop me a PM. I also have some excellent condition 13" hubcaps from a 88 GL-10 on Ebay right now. They were apparently stored upside down in the car. Just learning the whole Ebay thing. I have bought and sold from members here. I'm just getting so many parts that I need to thin the heard a little. Whatever money I get goes back into the garage/tools/etc. Otherwise I just keep the stuff on the shelf incase I end up needing it.