davebugs

I'll try to PM you. I'm leavingin a few hours fo rthe weekend

After you look it'll make sense. IIR sometimes issues with the long bolts on that. Get them all started but loose - the horizontal bolts. Before tightening, and I install the top bolt before tightening the horizontal bolts - sometimes the horizontal bolts can cause the top bolt hole to not align ANd IIR it's easier to use an extension and put the (aor)ratchet in the cap betweent he engine and battery - but it's been a while..

Transmission sensors are different, etc so you can't swap harness in the car I believe. 99 has 2 speed sensors, the older car 1 - for starters.

NAPA has an excellent selection and most weird sizes. Timesert/timecert's are newer and seem better but I haven't used them yet. Infact I'm trying to remember what heli-coils I do have. Because the kit, and drill bit can get kinda expensive for a one tim euse. I baby the flex joint behind the Y-pipe anytime I drop a Subaru exhaust manifold.

To clarify. Place the breaker bar on the crank bolt and the "subframe" over by the battery. They hit the starter - and the engine will turn the correct direction and the breaker bar will stay still. I realize this is your current issue. But when reinstalling that bolt it's VERY important that it's really tight. I had some tools made for teh older and newer harmonic balancers that allow the crank bolt socket to be placed in the middle. I prefer something like that instead of jambing something into the flexplate, etc. There may be an affordable tool made fo rthis purpose.

I use Dayco belts and the drivers side always looks like that with them. The bottom of the intake and top of the exhaust never totally line up. I've had Subaru tech's tell me that with OEM belts it's fine - which I can't understand.

Best way if it's stubborn. One of Snap-on breaker bars hits over by the battery fo rlike the last 1/4" of the handle. Now you wanna get that bolt back on TIGHT as well.

Wow - never seen that before. And at one point I literally had like 100 of them here. I have had them bend Kobalt allen wrench (note: Lowes return policy is ahassle compared to Sears). And their small allens don't hold up like Sears, Snap-on, or the grenade pin that comes with new tensioners.

Pics? After teh brass style tensioner is in place and before pulling the pin you need to take a screwdriver and stick it in there to the right of the tensioner, slide it all the way to the left - 1/4"? and tighten the 2 bolts. I have a lot of those tensioners used. I put them on Ebay when I have time. I probably have 20 left, leakers and others that don't look good I jus tthrow out. PM me if you wanna go used.

Yes I missed that thread\. Those tensioners rarely fail. Now - folks do forget to take a screwdriver and push them to the left that what 1/4" before tightening the 2 bolts that hold it to the block. When I would buy one with issues like yours and nothing had failed I'd look to see if that tensioner was over to the right in the slots for those bolts or to the left as they should be. They were always to the left. Hard to believe that 1/4" would make such a difference, but there has to be a reason the design has the slots for those bolts rather than being round.

Regardless of the cause I'd do a TB and idlers, etc. I do seals, WP, accessory belts, etc too while I'm there. And check those oil pump philips screws. I get teh kit form theimportexperts and have them add accessory belts, often souce my own Dayco TB local(but you may get a better deal getitn git form them too), WP, seals, etc. On a DOHC with a Dayco belt I can never get the drivers side cam marks to totally lign up - don't know whey - but never hurt anything.

I say no - OEM only. Others say they have purchased Fel Pro and the stamping on the HG's were Mitsubishi Heavy Industries (the same as OEM). I use Fel-Pro on most everything else fo rHG's and intake, exhaust, etc. But on Suby 2.5's I use OEM only.

Wow - I was thinking Japanese and not Asian. But I didn't notice any Subaru's. Actually not many VW's either - of course only the old stuff really interests me.

We went Saturday. Hadn't been there in 15 years. Bakc then I always had a shopping list fo rthe swap are. Man - is it smaller! I fogured the internet may take a toll on the swap area. Lots of British stuff and folks selling chinese tools and small hardware. NO traffic at noon on Saturday! I missed the R hand turn while we were talking. I figured there would be traffic. I say the VW MKIV kit I went for. I never recall there being so many Volvo's. I'd think a car show would be beneath them. Not even al lthe food places were open. WOrked great for us. 3 hours we had the place covered - twice! Noon to 3 on Saturday. NO traffic issues - but they still parked us clear over by the road course. Actually I didn't see any Subaru's. I was gonna take some pics if I did. Yes lots of Opels - a friend of mine was there. Didn't realize it until I saw their Opel wagon. I've always lusted for a GT but figured it would be a tight fit.

Drivers side is under load. That's why they turn easily. Makes hanging the new belt a bt of a challange as well. I use clamps or clothes pins. You doin gcrank & can seals? Checking those oil pump screws? Welcome ot the USMB!

I don't look at sig's. For instance I own no Subaru's but have likely worked on hundreds. And often folks are working on someone else's car, or a new car not added to their profile yet. Therefore whenever I've asked a question here my habit is to always state year/model/engine, and usually trans. But yea - take IIR I use a 10mm 1/4 deepwell to pull those TB cover "ears". you may then need to turn the crank bolt too. I'm thinking the odds are very good this will identify your problem, if nothing else it will rule out one of the best guesses.

I still don't see the year listed. But the old brass style is good - the best IMO. Yes a tooth or two off will often show as higher compression on one side. Like I said I think TB is likely off. Easiest thing is to the pull the "ears" off the timing belt cover on both sides. Check the cam marks to TB cover to see if they line up properly. I have purchased cars with this exact problem after someone did a timing belt job. Drivable buy occasional annoying code. Also IMO I'd think the shims would really, really have to be off to cause a misfire. As pointed out already the engine compares 2 sensors. Crank and one camshaft. So it isn't actually checking all the pieces in the timing system. So any coded generated with such limited information can be of little help. You kinda have to interpret what it's trying to tell you since it can't get all the info to give a better code.

Both cylinders on sam eside is mechanical, like timing belt - not electrical. What year/which style tensioner. I have used both styles if you wanna take that route. Old I reuse, new I replace (even though they are expensive). I'd atleast pull TB covers and look at how th etop of the cams line up.

One of my first guesses here on a 2.5 SOHC would be making sure the plug wires are OEM. Aften off brand or old OEM will be bad until the engine gets some heat into it and that causes the wires to dry out and work "better". You can try taking a spray bottle after it's running o.k. and spraying the plug wires to see if any change. Over here we don't have distruibutors on those engines - so I assume you mean what we call coil pack. In my experience Diamond brand coil pack seems to be the best.

I'm planning on attending Saturday with a friend. Likely when the crowd hits. Early to mid afternoon. Main purpose is to see the VW TDI kit car rather than what I used to go for 15 years ago which was mainly the swap area. So there is no rush for us. Kinda curious how much it's changed. Last I really went was before you could hunt down parts easily on the internet. So I expect the swap area is nothin glike it used to be. If anyone wants to meet up PM me for my cell#.

IIR a bad fuel filler tube will cause this.

VERY common problem. Search here. My favorite guide was from a link form skipnospam@comcast I believe. I recomment OEM Head Gaskets. You folks here usually do a complete timing belt kit and reseal the bafflet plate and leave the rear main alone.

Just read they will be at Carlisle. There is a car collection and related stuff auction next weekend local. But I haven' tbeen to Cartlisle in years. And since I haven't been able to work in a few years I'm thinking a day of walking around Carlisle will be a day well spent. I still have a lot of 95-99 parts if anyone needs anything not worth shipping. Like some Legacy fenders or doors, 2.5 heads, 95-96 filler tube, etc. Heck I even have complete engines incluging a 95 2.2 auto and a 96 2.2 that I had planned on doing more swaps until I was hurt. I'll be taking my Golf TDI that turned 240k today.

There is a safety valve in there. New or someone sells lifetiem warranty ones on Ebay. DON'T install the plastic protector at teh bottom of the new one.

I ALWAYS remove lower rad/WP hose and refill thru top hose when any doubt abotu air in the system. Toping off doesn't solve the heater core or other air bubble issues IMO.