s'ko

if anyone is interest, I just saw a CL on a BRAT. I can go back and get it on Monday. PM me if interested and we'll take price. BW

So as some of you might have seen, I bobbed the back of my crashed BRAT and it looks like this. I have been following the thread by Scott and his sedan/now justy build w/great interest. Got me thinking on taking my BRAT, that now has 0 historical value to the next level. This is what I am starting with. EJ18 BRAT w/EA81 tranny on it’s last legs 5 inch lift XT6 5 lug conversion, Bobbed bed. Here is what I am thinking. Replace the EJ18 w/ a EJ25 frankenstein engine. (EJ25 shortblock EJ22 phase 1 heads) Then replace the EA81 tranny w/ either a EA82 5 speed or EJ 5 speed w/welded center diff. Bolt a divorced T-case to the tranny. There will be a full length subframe on this build. I was thinking of mounting the engine/tranny in the stock location w/tabs above the lift blocks. I also wanted to move the front wheels forward so the subframe might even include an engine cage to allow for the front coilovers to be mounted. For the front and rear diffs, I was thinking of using screw in EJ rear diffs. The bad part is that I might have to use EJ rear hubs so it might not be feasible unless I do an adapter, the good part is that I it will increase the track of the BRAT. Well what do you think? I am going to start gathering parts and it might change depending on various opinions. Also need to brush up on my welding skills or make friends w/someone who can really weld. BW

how would I remove them without ripping the gasket? are the windows held in the the baskets only

yoo hoo another so cal old schooler. Welcome. If you need help with the EJ25 swap and getting it past the smog nazis let me know, I have two EJ swaps that are smog legal. You are also kinda near PK. I am sure we can arrange a get together sometime and hit the trails. Anza-Borrego would be really fun to romp around. Ever been to Font's Point. I was also kicking around the idea of doing a trek down the Mojave Trail. BW

more pics body is in good shape. Please let me know what you need. I will be doing 10% on top of the yard price for the item. here is the website from the yard http://www.pickyourpart.com/pricing/

I found an EA81 coupe in the local PAP. Dash is cracked, vents are rotted. Seats are toast. it has a tan interior. Here are some pics. If anyone wants some parts, I will be going back there on Monday.

Chuks. Sounds like you are in a jam. Removing the rear diff will let you pull the car. How far do you have to go? Can you get AAA to tow you home? Hope things work out. BW

i think that nipper has a point with the mechanical lsd having something get caught in the gears might have been one of the bolts holding the ring onto the diff since you are planning to pull the diff maybe your girl can wait until you pull the drivershaft if it moves with that removed then you should b good 2 go with the new diff installed. (added for clarification) good luck bw

do a google search on $60 paint job

So last year in July, my BRAT was rear-ended on the freeway. I had a couple of days off and I decided to go and make it somewhat serviceable. Presented for your approval purchase. LIFTED & EJ'ed CRASH FIXING COMMENCING you see where this is going... there... sheet metal all straightened out... errr well somewhat... now it's time to get more wire and bondo more pics at http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/album.php?albumid=200 BW

made corrections to the original post. The spark increased in time with the clicking, but the engine does not rev faster

It ran fine before the repair. The car is in neutral when being revved. Checked and tripled check the wires. THanks for the reply. I am at work right now and will not be able to do any tinkering until tonight or tomorrow.:-\ BW

So first I had a crack in my cooling system that I decided to fix other day. I took the intake manifold off and took some JB Weld to the crack and sealed it. While waiting for the JB Weld to dry, I decided to clean up the engine bay of it’s rat’s nest. I taped up the wires and zip tied them out of the way. I reassemble the engine and start it up and it runs idles but does not accelerate. Basically the engine will idle OK. It’s not smooth but it will do it with a slight hiccup. Then when I give it gas, it will not accelerate at all, it just idles as before. This coil pack will click faster and when I removed a plugwire to see the spark it did increase in speed. After I let up on the gas, it will sometimes surge a little and there will be this knocking noise coming from inside the engine. I am not getting any engine error signals. I have removed the intake 3 times already to make sure that I didn’t miss anything and it still does it. There is no unmetered air coming into the system. Looking at the combustion triangle and I know I have compression, spark looks like it’s there and same with fuel. I am guessing that there might not be enough fuel. Just to verify the three fuel hoses, the one from the filter goes into the top hose. The line at the bottom to the rear of the engine goes to the hose right next to the fuel filter and the line at the bottom to the front goes to the evap canister. I will test my theory by spraying some starter fluid into the intake while the engine is running and see if it will accelerate. What could cause a fuel starvation issue like this? Pressure regulator? Thanks BW

ok that makes more sense do you need to do soon or can you wait? if you can help arrange for cheap lodging during the Brazilian Grand Prix i can bring an EJ22 short block if I go to the race

ok let's start from the very beginning. the EJ18 has a 87mm bore. This is essential a hole that is 87mm in diameter. The EJ22's bore is 92mm. So the EJ22 pistons will be too big for the ej18 bore. All of this would make sense if you can tell us how easy it is to find EJ22s in in Brazil.

The EJ20 has a 92mm bore. it is the same as the EA82. The EJ series block shape is the same, it's the bores that are different. The blocks are made of aluminum and there are steel sleeves casted in. I don't know how thick the sleeves are but if you are going to be enlarging the bore, you will be removing the steel. To make the engine safe to operate, you will need to press in some sleeves to match the enlarged bore. This is not a do it yourself job. Whether you go from a 87.9 bore to a 92, 97 or 100 bore, you will still have to get the sleeves installed. Ask around and you'll find out it's really expensive. It would be cheaper to get the actual shortblock shipped to Brazil than to enlarge the bore. It sounds like you have little experience in engine building/moding. Do some research on cylinder boring and you will know what it entails. BW

I feel that it's too much trouble. I note that you are from Brazil. How hard is it to get an EJ22 shortblock? If you do bore it out, you are probably going to bore through the metal cylinder liner. Then you will have to press a new liner in place and that's $$$$$. For the same money you could just get an EJ22 shortblock and new bearings and rings. Just my 2 cents. BW

The main difference electronically between the EJ18 and the EJ22 is that there is no knock sensor on the EJ18. The first thing you will need to get is a copy of the wiring diagram for the EJ18. The wires coming from the 3 green connectors will make sense once you get the diagram. You will not need the majority of the wires from the donor. If you take the entire harness out, you will probably only use about a quarter of the wires. The goal is to take all over the wires associated with the engine and trim away the rest. The engine does not need a signal from the ABS. My EJ18 BRAT also did not have to clutch wire connected. Send me a PM w/you e-mail and I will see if I can find the info that you need. BW

rxleone To answer your question about EJ rear hubs and if there are swap-able, the quick answer is no. Of course I have never been satisfied w/the quick answer. I have looked at both an EJ rear hub and the EA rear hubs side by side. The EJ rear hub is held on by a straight trailing arm mounted on the chassis and going parallel to the wheel and two lateral links that are mounted to the rear diff hanger. The suspension is then bolted to the hub. The EA rear hub is held on by the y shaped trailing arm that is bolted to the torsion bar tube. The suspension is connected to the y-shaped trailing arm. There are two possible ways to making it work. 1) is to modify and fabricate a means to mount the EJ hub to the y-shaped trailing arm. Then you will have to make mounting points for the lateral links. Lots of fabricating involved in this and unless you know what you are doing it could spell disaster. The other way is to retrofit the entire EJ rear sub-assembly to the EA chassis. This would be slightly easier than the first b/c it will be less fabricating and more inventive mounting of components. If you were to incorporate lift blocks as well, it will allow for the block to serve as adapters, (kinda like the EJ-EA adapter) One member, mixthetoo tried to put impreza suspension onto a BRAT. I have yet to hear if it was successful. It's either going to take time and skills or money to do this. Keep an eye on the retrofitting area for developments. Once I finish moving, I will be looking into this project a little more. If I go w/option 2 it's going to be SVX suspension under a RX. Who knows, maybe I will also put in an EG33. BW

how long did you leave it in there for? Looks great BW

sorry for not posting that it's an EJ22. shortblock is newly rebuilt. t-belt skipped on the phase 2 heads and killed the driver side valve train. BW

Is it possible to remove the heads w/o having to pull the engine? Thanks BW

What's wrong with the original engine? If you are looking to get 2.5 power and not have to worry about wiring and stuff like that do a 2.5 shortblock hybrid motor. Any 2.5 shortblock will work. I used a 96 phase 1 2.5 shortblock. I had to swap out the crank timing gear. It's a fairly cheap swap and you can get some good power numbers. PM me if you need info on this. BW

I know it's a year overdue, but someone asked me the outcome of this problem. The first problem was due to a bad ground. The wire behind the starter was loose and would vibrate causing an intermittent short. The second problem with the erratic acceleration is not completely resolved. Switching the O2 sensor helped, but I think it is due to some wires getting damaged by the turbo up pipe. It doesn't happen often enough to warrant a complete rewiring of the harness near the lower radiator support. Some times, I will get a stumble when I have the right turn signal on and I accelerate at the same time. The third problem where it was driving retarted and then blow the oil return line was due to a retarted mechanic (that being me). Forgot to connect the boost sensor. Other than that things are running great w/the RX. Took it to Las Vegas on Thanksgiving weekend and even drove it home on Sunday after Thanksgiving . The traffic is so crazy, it makes a 4-5 hour drive into a 8-10 hour crawl. Never overheated and ran like a champ. BW