subaru360

I've mixed and matched knock sensors with no issues. If I find a used one at the junkyard I cut the plug off and splice it in. I think it's just a difference in plugs.

If you have the kind of compressor that looks like a big c clamp and goes all the way around the head, you can jsut make and adapter out of a piec of pipe with a notch in the side to get the keepers out. The springs really aren't that strong, you can get them push them in with your hand.

I found a pic of a gen 1 trans in the car. It's from moosens pics. I have the gen 1 crossmember, the one in the gen 2 car I got the trans out of was way different, I didn't even bother to get it. The gen 2 trans I got has mounts on both side of the case. It's looking like I will have to make up some sort of a trans mount. It sort of looks like the gen 1 trans mounts to the rear extension part. Believe it or not this thing has solid motor mounts in it. I don't know if it's something somebody made up or a race part from back in the day. I'm still trying to figure out what rear brakes it has, it's got rear discs. They look like subaru brakes, but I though gen one was rear drum only. Mayeb they are some sort of jdm brakes from it's early days as a factory backed race car. I'll try and post a pic of them soon. I have to find kits to rebuild the calipers.

Aluminum, looked like 15's but I didn't go check, I was rushing to get out of there.

Cool, glad somebody from here got them. I was there from about 12-3

Just thought I'd let you guys know there is a full set of those pug wheels you all like so much at A-Z ez pull in new ringgold PA. They were just putting the car out today when I was there. It's a red one, when you go into the yard it will be all the way to the right.

Get a newer outback XT turbo. Would be the best of both worlds for you.

I got a trans for it today. It was from a Gen 2 '80 2wd wagon with an EA71. It's a 5 speed too. It shifted all gears fine, the pedal felt good and the car died from rust. They had it up on a bock and it just about snapped in half, the roof was the only thing holding it together. I grabbed everything, shifter, clutch cable, pedal, clutch, starter, flywheel, even got the plate off the back of the EA71 in case it was different. I think the Gen 1 trans mount is different, might need to get one of those or make something up.

What's the differences in the trans from gen 1 to the later ones. I've been mostly looking for something from a Gen 1 or Gen 2. I think an EA82 uses a different clutch and flywheel? One place near me has a fwd trans from an XT already out for $80 buy it now on the bay. I'm going to the U pull it later today to look.

I would say you're right, this car has a really heavy cage in it. It's old school, all steel no chromemoly and lot of extra bracing added, double door bars, bars through the firewall to the strut towers etc. I'm still looking for a trans for it, planning to hit some yards tomorrow. I think I figured out a source for axles.

My 360 would run after an EMP. No electronics in it at all. But I'd be screwed anyway, I'm close enough to NYC and Philly to be downwind of any radiation. We'd die a slow death from radiation poisoning here instead of going fast like the people in the big cities. The ruggedized military laptops have titanium cases, not sure how that helps, but must be for a reason.

That actually isn't the the original paint scheme. It was white with stripes when it was raced in the 70's it gained the supercharger and the yellow paint with the superoo graphics in the 80's. I'm not doing any paint work to it, I think he plans to keep it as it is.

The owner sent me a few of those pics. Not much has changed since then except it now has a stock EA81 just sitting in there with the D/R 5 speed. Not sure why it ended up with a 4wd trans. I'm going to yank the whole mess back out tomorrow and take inventory of what's there and what's missing. I'm reading up on the supercharger it had on it now. It's a Judson, I know that much. It's a VW unit. Somebody made up the intake manifold and put the sidedraft weber on it. From what I can tell it's on the small side for an EA63. It was made for 1200cc VW's. I think it might run better with the E81 and get a weber 32/36 than with the supercharged EA63.

I think you guys are going to like this one. I was asked at the Carlisle show about doing this car. The owner sent me a few pics and I agreed to take on the project. It's a 72 GL. It was the first factory backed Subaru race car in the US. The owner has some old magazine articles from 1972 about it. A lot of things have been changed in it over the years. It looks like it was last run in the late 80's in SCCA GT-4. At that point it had a supercharger on it and a VW beetle trans in it. Right now it has a stock EA81 just sitting in it with nothing hooked up and a D/R 5 speed of all things just sitting in there, with a big hole cut in the trans tunnel and just resting on the crossmember. I have the engine and the supercharger that were previously in it. I'm trying to figure out what it is and what's in it. I think it's an EA63 with an aftermarket cam and some headporting, it's supposed to have major water leaks. I think it might be best to stick with the EA81 for now, I'm going to pull both engines apart and see what condition they are in. I got a full factory subaru gasket set with it, not sure which engine it's for. Obviously nothing works as far as brakes etc. The wiring is a mess. Body is really not bad at all. There are some really wide maybe 8" or so 13" steel wheels for racing slicks. My job is to get it running and stopping. I'm going to take inventory of all the parts tomorrow and see what I have to work with. Some stuff I know I will need is an EA fwd trans and axles to fit it. I was told by the owner the EA81 axles were too long. I'm also going to need a clutch cable and all the brackets etc, it still has some sort of a hydralic VW clutch setup in there. If anyone has a FWD EA trans, gen 1 length axles or the clutch cable parts let me know. I'd even consider a fwd parts car if it was cheap. This is the engine that was in it when it was last raced. I think it's an EA63? If you can identify it let me know. I can take pics of anything needed to help identify it.

You can leave the two breathers on the valve covers alone if you want and plug the other hose off. But the big hose to the IAC needs to be plumbed back into the pipe you have after the MAF sensor. The IAC is pulling unmetered air, that's why it won't idle.

On the highway with it running well, you can get around 30 maybe a little better I can get low 30's highway in the wrx. Subies tend to have crappy around town mileage, at least mine does.

Right just have the side of the engine tilted at least slightly up so all the lifters don't just fall out. With the side you are working on tipped up a little gravity will hold the lifters in. The cams are held in by the cam caps bolted to the heads. You want to keep the lifters in order to avoid messing with valve adjustment, plus they need to stay on the same cam lobe they are worn too.

Keep all the lifters in order. Tip the engine up on the side you are working on so they dont all fall out when you take the cams out. I would not do the front and rear crank seals if they don't leak. If you screw it up and they leak you'll be pulling it apart again to replace them again. It's uncommon for them to leak. If the cam seals are black replace them, if they are brown they are the new style, if the new style don't leak you can usually reuse them. Oil pans don't usually leak, oil seperator plates almost always leak. Valve cover gaskets can be reused if they weren't leaking, but be sure to but a dab of silicone at the joints of the front cam caps surface and the corners and the at half moon pieces in the back. Be sure to get the intake bolts good and tight it's easy to get a vacum leak especially with new gaskets.

It means the TCM has stored a fault code for the transmission. I don't recall how to read them offhand, I've done it before it's not hard, but search on this site and you'll find the procedure.

All the EJ ones are pretty much the same. There might be a few different part numbers out there, like for STi's but they all fit the same. I actually have one from a 96 if you need one. $20 if you come get it or I can ship it out.

Maybe, if not then either maine, oregon, colorado or washington state.

Getting a whole car is the easiest way. You can find beater early legacys for a few hundred bucks. I've stripped down one 96 harness and it's a little more involved. I'd prefer the early ones for a swap, but either will work fine. Also before putting the engine in, reseal/replace the oil sperator plate on the back of the block.

These engines are so cheap used, it's just not cost effective to rebuild one.

Auto does on 95. Usually manual doesn't but sometimes there are weird california emissions packages out there.

Keep looking you can get EJ22's for $200, $100 if you go to a U-Pull yard. For a swap into an EA car, you would want an early 90-94 EJ, less wiring to deal with.