subaru360

You won't make much more power. WRX's use the same air filter and box and can make over 300 hp with it, it's a good setup. But if you just want to make a little more noise and have some fun go for it.

OK here is a strange one. I have never come across this before. This is my bother in law's OBS. It's hard to start after it sits for a while. It cranks slow, then starts up and taps for a bit and then runs fine. He just got this a few weeks ago. I don't know a lot of history on it. It's a 98 or so, I forget, EJ22. It sat around for at least 3 years before he got it. I changed the oil and gave it a tune up when he got it. It does have a brand new battery. It has the stock fuel pump out of my wrx in it, the one it it went bad from sitting. I don't think it is a starter problem. After the initial start it will start up normally until it sits for a while. I think it's doing something wacky with the crank sensor and adding too much timing? It has that sort of over advanced timing sound when it trys to start. Then maybe just some typical subie piston slap? Or maybe the motor is getting ready to let go and spin a bearing or something. I know most of the normal subie problems, I've never quite seen this before. Ideas? I'm going to see if can hook up my laptop to it and see what the timing does cold and maybe look at the coolant temp sensor when it's cold. If I can't figure this out soon, I'm just going to toss one of my spare engines in it, I can swap them out in a few hours now.

You can spin the cams around 10 times and you won't bend the valves. Trust me I have built many of these engines, it's not luck.

I don't know, I have never messed with one of them. I do a lot with older EJ25 dohc, WRX EJ20 and older 2.2's. I have never had a newer 2.5 SOHC apart.

^^^No Put the crankshaft on the timing mark. Set the cams in so no lobes are pushing on lifters. Then the cams will sit all the way down. Then tighten the cam caps. Then turn the cams to the timing marks and put the belt on. You won't bend valves just turning the cams with the engine off. I have built 30+ EJ dohc engines, trust me you can spin them 360 degrees.

You need to have the cams in so that the heel of the cam is towards the lifter. In other words the lifter isn't being lifted.

The EJ25 dohc with internal leaks went away in 99 and then came the SOHC 2.5 with external leaks in 99. The head gasket issues were resolved around 02-03 IIRC. I have an 02 Impreza WRX and it is a great car. I am very happy with it.

It is a very easy swap. Everything just plugs in and bolts on, if you get the complete 95 engine with the intake manifold. You could also use a 96-98 2.2 engine if you get the Y-pipe from the car the engine came from. You don't need any special tools to do it other than a hoist to pull it out. If you're really tough a couple guys can lift it out by hand, we've done it, but the hoist is the way to go.

The screws on the back of the oil pump come loose fairly often. When this happens all the oil pressure pushes out the front crank seal. Some people replace the seal several times before discovering this. The oil pump needs to come out to tighten up and loctite the screws in to fix this. You'll need to replace the oring on the pump and reseal it to the block with sealant.

X2, this is probably what happened. It is somewhat common.

I like white.

You might look into a used snowmobile trailer or something similar with the complete tire/axle assembly below the deck. Then it wouldn't be such a big deal if the body hung off the sides a few inches. I think your Impreza could tow the bare body ok, might be a bit much to tow the whole car.

I think this tool is commonly used by motorcycle mechanics if that helps at all.

Wow, that is really a nice one! It's interesting for me to see, I just finished doing a lot of work on a 72 GL here. It had been race car since 72 and had hardly anything stock or original anymore. It's neat to see how everything was originally. Does your car have the 4 wheel discs brakes? If you ever have a wheel off I'd like to see a pic of the brakes. I think we have mostly confirmed the one I worked on had 4 wheel discs from a GSR, that got to the US from some sort of factory race connection back then. We never got the GSR model in the US.

Well if you find anything wong with the rest of the engine, I'll just donate the good one I have. So you're covered there. I ended up getting it for free from the guy who owned it anyway. I like your car, it seems like the right thing to do. I think I gave away my last EA81 oil pump the other day, I'll take a look and see if I can find another one for you.

It's bad, sorry. See all the scoring on the aluminum where the rotor rides? That's how they usually go.

Autozone sells a beck-arnley oil pump part # is 028-0248 but kinda pricey at $142.00 Take yours apart for a look, if it's bad it will have obvious score marks in it. You can also measure the clearances inside. I don't have the specs offhand but it's in the service manual.

Take a ride over to a-z ez pull there were some there the last time I looked. There are also a few sets at Harry's in Pennsburg. Buy the whole strut/spring assembly for an easy swap.

Kinda late now, but what I do before working on a nasty old engine is get a few cans of degreaser and take it to the local coin operated car wash before I work on it. I like gunk brand engine brite. I spray it down with that really good let it soak for about 10 minutes and use the high pressure rinse hose on it. That way all the greasy mess goes down the drain there and not onto me.

95-99 Legacy and Outback are all the same, you'd want both struts and springs. You could probably find somebody with a legacy to swap with you.

Yes it would work. You might also want to pull out all the spacers between the subframe and body that the outbacks have to avoid weird driveline angles. Although just the strut swap would work ok too. Be sure to align it afterwards.

These engines are dirt cheap and plentiful in pick a part yards. They are also easy to swap. You could probably have it up and runnning with a used one for a $100 and a few hours work. That's what I would do.

Ok, good. I would get rid of the EGR with the weber, along with all the air injection junk also. You can just plug up all the holes in the head and intake.

Do you need an EA81 hitachi manifold? I have one here. It's yours if you pay to ship it. I think I have the EGR pipe too. But if I were you, I'd just block off the ports and get rid of the EGR.

I would buy a new aftermarket radiator for it if they are available. It looks like it is almost ready to come out. 4 bolts bellhousing to trans, unbolt the motor mounts. Then jack up under the trans till the motor mounts clear the crossmember. Slide it forward and lift it out. With one person on each side it is easy to lift it out.