subaru360

I have seen one bad EJ water ever and that was on a 250,000 mile engine. That one was just a little loose not even leaking. I do not replace the pumps with timing belts unless I am asked to. I have seen a bunch of bad pulleys especially the toothed one.

A header listed for a 2.5 will work on a 2.2 dual port.

You could try a header and some cams. Non-turbo subarus aren't exactly known for power.

If the only reason you are doing this is for more power, you will be unhappy. I have driven many 2.2 and 2.5 legacys. I have done the 2.5>2.2 swap many times. You don't even notice the difference in power.

I can't think of a specific link, but if you search for something like "spun rod bearing" on http://www.nasioc.com you'll get a lot of hits. I put an egine in one over the summer with a spun bearing.

The phase 1 EJ22 intake manifold does not fit Phase 1 EJ5 heads.

The 2.0 wrx is well known for spun rod bearings. Sorry yours did it. You can get a used shortblock cheap, lots of these cars get wrecked and parted out or upgraded to the 2.5 shortblock.

Turbos smoke when they go bad from leaking seals, noise is usually the wheel hitting the housing. The forester xt uses the same turbo as the wrx. Lucky for you a good portion of wrx owners upgrade to bigger turbos. You can pick up a low mileage used turbo cheap, the going rate is about $100. Look on http://www.nasioc.com for one.

The only difference with the sti and wrx t-belt is that there is one more small pulley by the tensioner. It's fine to use a vise to compress the tensioner. I use a big c-clamp myself. The big thing is to go slowly. If you go too fast you can ruin the tensioner.

If you don't want to drive look on http://www.car-part.com and find a junkyard that will ship to you. It will cost more that way but save you time if you don't want to pull it yourself.

The fix for that code is new catalytic convertors. If you want to cheat, get 2 spark plug anti foulers and put them on the rear O2 sensor, you have to drill the center of one out so it fits. This will pull the sensor out of the exhaust stream and fool it so it won't set the code again.

I never mess with replacing bearings. I just get a whole used assembly. It's less work and much cheaper.

I've got pretty good at solo trans swaps on the ground. I have a garage with heat and a/c but no lift. To tilt the engine, use a ratchet strap from the pitch stopper mount on the firewall to the a/c bracket. I usually pick the front of the trans up by hand and rest it on the cross member. Then slide a jack under from the front with the handle hanging under the front bumper and start jacking the back of the trans up while holding the front in place, then slide it on the studs. I'm a tall guy with long arms so I can reach both, this might not work for everyone.

My mom has a 99 30th limited with the cold weather package, no lsd.

Sorry you got a bad one and gave up on it. They are good cars, if you are trying to convince people to not buy one by posting here, I don't think you will have much luck with that. It could have been fixed. Heck I could have fixed it.

The DOHC engines are several inches wider, the heads are a lot bigger. I have had them out of the car sitting side by side. I have also seen an EJ22 in a brat and it is tight, no way a dohc will fit without major cutting. I had several of both sohc and dohc, but we did a scrap run yesterday and got rid of all of them, so I can't get exact measurements for you.

The WRX engine or any DOHC is too wide to fit between the framerails of a gen 1. The EJ22 phase 1 just barely fits, most people even notch the frame for that. For a wrx engine, you'd be cutting half the framerail out. Just something to think about. An RX is the grandfather of the wrx. But forget the rx transmision or any other EA trans behind a wrx engine, it will break. You would have to use an EJ 5 speed. If I was doing this I would buy a complete older legacy or impreza with an EJ22 and a 5 speed and swap the engine, trans and harness in.

I just take the whole spacer off. If you want to plug them, take the pipe out, cut it off flush with the fitting, put a quarter in the hole in the spacer and put the fitting back in.

If you get the trans number off the sticker by the bellhousing or the plate under the hood, you can find the ratio from that. There are some charts onlilne or a dealer can look it up. It is probably 4.111 but check the number to be sure.

I got the link to this last week on nasioc. I have used it a lot already.

I was just thinking that somebody on nasioc in CT is selling an STI wing and trunk I want for my wrx. Maybe somehow we can figure out a way to work that all out, I get the wing you get my engine, meet halfway or something. Might work out somehow.

I have an EA81 and a subaru gasket set I was trying to sell for $100. I will just give it to you if we can find a way to get it there. Or if you can get the car to me somehow, I'll put it in for you. I can't install it free, but it will be cheap.

I did one with pipe like that for somebody, it came out fine. I think he switched to PS eventually and used a combination of u joints for the ps rack.

Sounds like a seperator plate. The rear main seals almost never leak. Stop leak won't help, the seperator plate is sealed with RTV. Replace it with a metal one when you have it apart if it is plastic. Your local delaer will have the metal one in stock it's very common.

The aftermarket fuel pumps like to be lower than the fuel level for best performance. But it would work mounted under the hood if that is where you decide to put it. It is ok to run a few feet of wire to the MSD box, all the ones I've had actually came with a few feet attached. But it also will work fine under the hood if that's where you put it. I like putting them under the dash so they don't get heated up by the engine and it looks cleaner under the hood.