subaru360

I've sold a ton of these 95-99 legacys of all types and from what I have noticed, Outback buyers could care less what engine is in it, but the people in the market for a GT want the 2.5 engine.

The easiest way I can think of is to just lift the carpet in the hatch/trunk area and get at the fuel pump wires through the access panel. They end up under the dash at the relay, it should be above the drivers feet to the left, but you'd have to do some searching on that.

That might work, I've considered it but never tried. He'd have to take the engine harness off the 2.5 and put it on the 2.2, not a big deal.

No, the 2.5 intake will not fit on the 2.2 The flywheel will fit. The engine will work in the car as long as you switch the exhaust y pipes, but will have a check engine light for the missing EGR.

I have a few of the transmissions here and the cars too. You are correct.

A 99 legacy L has a phase II EJ22.

Coming from Maine it's about 2 hours out of your way. You'd probably be going back into NJ anyway to go home if you take the normal route.

But KBB supposedly uses zip code in determining their pricing.

Just an example of why I think KBB is insane. Right now I am selling 99 OB 30th limited. It's in what I consider average condition and has 170K. Runs fine with a good 2.2 in it, has some scuffs on the bumper. KBB has this car at $5600 private party. If I tried to advertise this car for $5600, I would not get even one person interested. I want $3500 for it and get a few inquiries a day. Usually for this price they sell in a week. The only thing KBB is good for is people thinking they got a steal when they bought a car for a fair price.

$3850 is too high for a plain legacy L with a trans problem. For that price the car should be 100% perfect.

I use NADA. KBB is a joke, I've never seen cars sell for the prices they list.

Not something people will have at home but there are machines that pump smoke into the fuel tank and you just look for the leak that way. If you have a compressor with a regulator that goes down fairly low, you could make up some fittings to pressurize the evap system with a few psi and listen/feel for leaks. I made a setup like that for the turbo subies to pressurize the turbo plumbing to look for leaks.

The filler necks rust out often and cause a leak and P0440.

Clutch type and diff ratio are the big things with subaru manual trans interchange. Some of the older ones will have a cable speedo, but it's not a big deal, the speed sensor will fit in place of the cable. If some of the switches on the side have different plugs, your old ones will fit in place of them also.

If you can do an oil change and brake pads you can do a door speaker. It's just a few screws nothing difficult. BTW you paid a fair price for the other work you had done.

You could do it. You'll be be way beyond the rated towing capacity of the Outback doing the towing. It will probably make it, but it will be a white knuckle ride all the way. It won't stop well at all. If you need to stop short, it probably won't and you will hit something. The rear driveshaft on the the outback being towed needs to be unbolted and wired up out of the way. You'd need a towbar or a tow dolly. If you do it my suggestion is to do it in the middle of the night with hardly any traffic and in clear weather. As for the engines the 95 2.2 auto engine is a bolt and plug in, and the 96-98 2.2 auto engines bolt and plug in, but you need the matching single port y pipe.

That's 99 when they went to the 8 bolt bellhousing pattern, or at least all the 98 ones I have had through here were 4 bolt and the 99's were 8. Subaru did some weird stuff, so I'm not saying it's not possible for there to be an 8 bolt 98 out there. And the bottom starter stud is there on the 8 bolt trans. I have a 99 here right now with a 95 engine in it and it has the lower stud. The starter is held on with a bolt on the top and a stud on the bottom. Even the newer ones like several 02 WRX's I have had, had the lower stud.

I'll try to go this time. My wrx wagon is too nice for offroad, so I'll be in the suburban.

I like them. They look good on there. Are those wrx wheels? Maybe 05 or so?

Wow that Pep Boys saw you coming. $400 is insane for exhaust gaskets. They are about $20 from the dealer and to change them is just 6 bolts easily acessed from under the car. If no trouble with rust, you are done in 10 mins. The knock sensor price is probably about right. I forget how much they are new, but they also take 5 mins to change, it's one bolt holding it on right behind the intake manifold. I'd forget rip off shops like Pep Boys and find a local shop that specializes in Subaru or at least foreign cars in general.

Did it blow the coolant out of the overflow bottle? When the head gaskets are bad that is what they do. I would do a quick pressure test on the cooling system to be sure you don't have an external leak somewhere. If that is ok you are probably looking at the beginning stages of bad head gaskets. Everyone on here has their own opinion on the best way to do the job. None of these opinions are wildly out of line. I do a lot of these jobs, several a month. I don't get the head resurfaced or do valve jobs for no reason. I just check them for warpage, clean the parts with a razor blade and brake kleen. I have done about 30 of them like this with no repeat failures. My reasoning is that the factory finish on the heads is better than what the typical local machine shop can do. Also these heads are very short, if it got hot enough to warp them, I don't want to repair the engine. At that point I just replace the whole thing with a 2.2 engine.

Your prices are not in line at all. That is a lot of work for $300. Even working with little to no overhead I still get $700 to do the head gaskets. I buy these 96-99 outbacks with bad head gaskets for $500-1000 all the time. Actually I'm going to go pick another one up in a few hours for $800.

If I was a realtor and had to drive clients around, I would get a legacy spec B. Fast, lots of room inside, leather seats, 6 speed, what more do you need?

I theory you could park on grass or leaves and start a fire. In reality, I just tear them off and never think twice about it.

I only use OEM gaskets for the 2.5, for 2.2's I will use either OEM or aftermarket. No I don't machine heads. I just check them. I've got a few reasons why. First off, the 2.5's lose the gaskets because of bad gasket design/material, not a problem with the block or heads. Second, the factory finish on the heads is better than any typical local machine shop can do. Thirdly if somebody got it hot enough to warp heads, I don't want to fix it. Subie heads are so short they don't warp easily, so if you did, I'm not going to risk fixing it. For what it's worth I've never had one fail again.