subaru360

Did you put the whole sti body harness in? I believe there is more you will need than just the key and ecu. Try your question on http://www.nasioc.com in the conversions section.

I don't torque those anymore, they break too easy. I just snug them with a ratchet hand tight.

I put the water pump gasket in dry.

Unless you left something unplugged, you spun the wheel too many times and broke the clockspring. Yes they do have one, it's part of the combination switch. Best bet is a used one from a U-pull type junkyard or post a wanted ad on here. They are usually cheap used. I sold somebody one for $20, but I dont have any more right now.

I have this problem with aftermarket cats often. They don't work as well as the factory ones and you get a 420 code. You can try the anti-fouler trick. Buy 2 spark plug anti-foulers that will thread onto the oxygen sensor. You'll have to drill one out so the sensor will fit into it. Thread both on the sensor and re-install. This pulls the sensor back out of the exhaust stream so it reads less oxygen and will usually solve the 420 code. It costs less than $10 to do, so it's worth a try.

It's a little different. The pistons are different and the thrust bearing is moved.

You really want to stick with a phase 2 engine. You run into a wiring mess trying to put a phase 1 in, mostly with the IAC it's way different.

It's going to depend on how many teeth it jumped. If it was only a few it might be ok.

I've had a few bad ones. Sometimes they collapse and just wont pump up no matter how much you run it. I've always just put other used ones in and fixed it that way. The local U-pull gets $10 for complete rocker shafts with lifters. Can't beat that, just put the whole thing in and done.

96 Subarus are exempt from the OBD2 test here in PA for the reasons listed. Here the 96s just get a visual inspection and a gas cap test.

I'd get both speed sensors used from a junkyard and try that first. They are cheap around here.

If it's the 20th, I'll be at the jersey shore anyway, so I can go. I'll probably have the wrx, so I will need to ride with somebody.

I have the Sun Auto hyper grounding kit. I got it free, I would never have paid for it. I noticed no difference. Oh well, it does add that mad tyte JDM bling.

Stromung makes a cat back. It's expensive and hard to find but nice. I have one here, but I think we are going to use it. You can get a made in china header cheap on Ebay. Any header with an up-pipe is for a turbo car.

92 legacy turbo is OBD1, it won't pass emissions if you have them in your area. You'd need the legacy turbo engine crossmember. The legacy turbo trans isn't much stronger really, but the clutch is a hydraulic pull clutch. You'd have to do some wire harness merging to make it work.

The phase 2 EJ22 loses head gaskets just as often as the phase 2 EJ25. I've seen lots of leaking EJ22 phase 2's. As for the OP, just switch the intake and cam and crank pulleys if needed. It will swap in fine.

This is mine.

Never mess with the rear main if it doesn't leak. They hardly ever leak unless you mess with them. Lots of people have learned this the hard way, you aren't the only one.

If it changed on a curve that is a real good sign a front wheel bearing is going. When you make slight turns it loads and unloads the front bearings.

The head bolts seize in the block sometimes. If the gasket goes bad in just the right place, coolant gets down the threads and the head bolt seizes. I've never been able to get one out without snapping the bolt off in the block. At that point I give up and replace the engine. Even if it is just a rounded off head on the bolt, I doubt you will break it loose with a bolt extractor. I usually use a 2 foot pipe to break EJ head bolts loose. No extractor is going to hold up to that. Best bet is to drill/grind the head off the bolt and go from there.

I just finished the WRX a few hours ago. A one hour 20G turbo installation turned into a 2 day project. I got it all done and it leaked coolant out a plug on the side of the turbo. Got that done and took it out for a quick run to walmart. No boost at all. Turns out the wastegate arm was backward and holding the wastegate wide open. Got that fixed and went for a quick drive. It was a little wet and it spun the tires at 60mph when it hit boost. It's never done that before even on wet roads. So the bad part is that both cars are filthy and I didn't get to try out my WRX/360 on the trailer combo yet. So tomorrow is a maybe for me. I guess I will see how the weather is. Sunday is a for sure.

The crank will move a bit with the car in gear and the brake on. It will take up all the slack in the drivetrain before the bolt breaks loose.

It really wouldn't be a horribly expensive repair if you can find somebody familiar with subaru engines in your area who doesn't charge a lot. Pull the engine and take them the shortblock. You can get new bearings for about $100 and a used EJ22 crank is cheap if you need it. You don't need an EJ22T crank, they are all the same.

The thrust bearing is probably bad. You could drive it like that for a while if you had to. If it get bad enough, crank will start to hit the block as it turns and ruin it.

I remembered. I'm bringing it. I may have a problem with bringing both cars. I decided to put my new turbo on the wrx today. I'm upgrading from a 16G to a 20G. It usually takes me an hour to change a turbo. 7 hours later it's still not done, I had a bad stud in the up-pipe, the new turbo is huge, so it doesn't fit well, it took lots of grinding and cutting. I have it all figured out now except the oil feed line port is bigger 12mm vs 10mm. I drilled 2 holes in a standard 12mm bolt to make a custom banjo bolt and drilled out the oil feed line. Hopefully it will all work and not leak, I'll find out in about an hour when I go put it in and try to start it. If all else fails I will just drive the 360 there. It's only an hour and a half and the 360 is running perfect.