subaru360

I need to know what color wire goes where in the coil pack plug on a 99 2.5 RS. The wire colors are Red w/ green stripe, black, blue, and white or possibly yellow, it could be faded. If somebody could take a look and see what color goes where, it would really help me out. I've been searching for while and found nothing.

Now that they are getting older, I do a lot with Phase 2 engines. They aren't any harder to deal with. I do a lot with 02-03 wrx also now that they are $6-7k cars. That is a nightmare swap, phase 2 in 98 legacy. I will not do that one, not worth it. The Phase 1 2.5 dohc intake manifold does not fit on a phase 2 head.

There is another cam sprocket besides the one you pictured. I have a few in my parts bins, if I get a chance I will take a pic.

Was it a swapped Outback you drove? The 4.444 final drive in the formerly 2.5 auto ones helps out a lot.

Intakes fit either 2.2 or 2.5 on phase 2. Cam and crank sprockets are the same except on the back where they trigger the sensor. 2.2 and 2.5 phase 2 use the same timing belt.

Have you ever driven a 2.2 swapped outback? I have, more like 30 some of them. They go just fine. I've never had a complaint about any of the ones I have done as far as lack of power.

It works, I've done a few phase 2 EJ25 to phase 2 EJ22 swaps. Just watch the crank and cam sprockets, there are 2 variations of each. Also MAF vs MAP, it's usually better to use the complete intake manifold off the old engine.

I hate the ABS in these cars. It's way too touchy for my taste and once the cars get rusty it doesn't function well. I regularly disable it on cars I work on.

If it was repeatedly overheated and has 200,000 miles, I would not invest the time and money into the 2.5 engine. Especially if it was bad enough to smoke out the exhaust. My advice is look into buying a complete 2.2 engine. It's an almost direct replacement and available cheap if you want to keep the car running. All the info is on here if you search.

You want to pull the oil pump off and check the screws on the back. When they come loose, oil pressure pushes out the seal. If they are loose and you don't tighten them, you will lose another seal right away. It's not much more work at all to pull the pump, check the screws/loctite and reseal the pump to the block. You will need a new oil pump o-ring and some sealant.

Subaru cars are easier to service than ford or chevy. They are just different. Once you get used to them, you'll see that everything is laid out for easy servicing.

The turbo legacy block is arguably the best block subaru ever made. The rest of the engine is meh, ok.

It'll work. Everything above is correct. The ECU will need a retune. It will start and run on the stock tuning.

I have an 02 WRX wagon. I'm a tall guy 6' 2" and I have plenty of room. The 3 kids have plenty of room in the back too. It's a great car.

I use a real long, about 18", screwdriver and tap the pins out from the other side.

Oh yeah, I think he drove that XT to my house. If so it's a nice one. I have an RS here I bought and the scoop is peeling too!

Nice forester XT! Hope you get it. I like those. RS was nice too.

Does the 98 GT trans have a screw on external oil filter? If so it is a phase 2 trans and will not work in an older car.

You might be able to machine adapter plates to make the manifold work. You'd have the plate bolt to the head with countersunk allen bolts then the manifold bolts to threaded holes in the plate. the passage inside the adapter plate would need to go like this / / As soon as I heard FF1 in a junkyard in PA, I knew exactly which yard. They get the best parts there. I haven't been there in a while or I would have spotted the FF1. I'm going there today for some parts, I'll check it out.

I have a 20G on my 2.0 wrx. It doesn't make full boost until 3800-4000 rpm, but when it spools it makes good power. I ran a 12.7 @ 110 with it bogging and spinning the tires bad. I think it can run high 11's. You need at least 750-800cc injectors, a 255 walbro fuel pump, tgv delete for clearance, a bigger intercooler, catless up-pipe and tuning in addition to the parts you have now.

I order them from the local subaru dealer. I'm sure you could order them from one of the online dealers as well.

You use a heat gun for easier sticker removal.

I don't have the part number, but I have bought the stickers and they are $30-40. They are easy to apply. You have to use a spray bottle with soapy water, then you can slide it around into place and get all the bubbles out before the water dries.

You need to adjust the clutch pushrod inside the car under the dash. This will solve your problem. I have to adjust it often when putting in a new clutch or it won't engage first well.

It's a sticker. Blu is a 96-99 outback. They have a sticker in that area. It's an easy fix. Here in rust land they all do that.