subaru360

You can get $500-600 for the block. The rest of the engine isn't worth much. The trans isn't worth a whole lot, it's pull clutch like a wrx, but has the older style narrow gears old synchros. The rear lsd might be worth a few hundred if it's not the one with the old style axles, that one doesn't work in much but old legacys. Not all T legs have LSD.

Phase 1 2.2 and 1.8 you don't have to remove cams or valve covers. Phase 1 2.5 you do. It's not hard. Just keep all the lifters in order.

EGR recirculates exhaust gas for emissions.

No way around it. You have to remove the cams.

Not an issue. 98 forester still has the 4 bolts engine to trans. 95 2.2 goes right into a 98 forester.

The engine in the Ebay link is an oddball. I'd pass on it. It's got a turbo exhaust manifold and hydraulic lifter 96 and older heads on it. And that odd intake manifold. I'm not sure exactly what it is.

Replacing O2 sensors has never fixed a 420 code for me. Antifoulers have fixed it 9 times out of 10. It's almost always bad cats. Aftermarket cats will not fix a 420 code. New dealer cats will, but who spends $1000 on cats for a $2000 car?

I think it is insanity to bother to rebuild an EJ22 phase 1. I can buy a complete running engine for $65 at the U pull it. I can get as many as I can haul away at that price. Maybe 1 out of 100 of them fail. I'll take those odds and price any day. I can swap one out in 2 hours, so even that isn't a valid argument. Oh and these are really tough little engines. I have a stock 100,000+ mile phase 1 EJ22 shortblock in my wrx. It makes over 300 whp, sees 22 psi almost daily and has survived a few oops at 30 psi.

The FF1 looked like it could have been saved.

Wow, old thread. I do PA to ME pretty often also. 4 or 5 times a year, sometimes more. It's about 1100 miles for me. I can get just about 30 MPG in the WRX if I stay out of boost. I won't even mention how fast I can do the trip if I don't care about MPG. Out of state speeding tickets don't transfer to a PA license. When I lived in NJ we did NJ to Orlando FL a few times straight through. I have 3 driving trips I'd like to try someday. PA to Key west FL, PA to Alaska and PA to California. Maybe someday. I also want to try to drive the 360 to Maine.

All 2.5's 96-99 have EGR, 5 speed or auto doesn't matter it has one. Any 2.2 95-98 with EGR will plug in and work

If it's not too late I have an Outback parts car with a 5 speed and everything to convert yours.

The 2.2 needs to be from an automatic car with an EGR valve. 95-98 will work. 95 uses the same dual port y pipe. 96-98 you need to get the matching single port y pipe.

Yes I'm sure. The radiator support was cut out and the radiator moved forward. There are pics on here I just don't remember where.

I've seen those before. We just unbolted the hinge on the door side too.

It's not a turbo and yes it can be done and has been. All we'll drive in NJ did one. I forget his username on here.

The lines are different. If you get the matching lines it will work. The mounting holes and pins don't quite line up, but if you are creative it will work, I've done it.

The 99 legacy uses the same calipers as the 02 wrx. It's just different brackets and bigger rotors.

I've done almost 50 of them. Get one with an EGR valve. Swap the dual port y pipe with a single to match your 96 engine. Everything else is plug and play.

Have him replace the gaskets before sale? Parts aren't that expensive and it's not a hard job.

I only buy used parts for cars I plan to sell. I have a huge stash of spares and always have a few cars around to swap parts from. Most of the cars I sell are 100,000+ mile cars and the parts are from 100,000+ mile plus cars so I don't see the big deal about it. I would never put bad parts on a car, but I want to make a profit, so yeah, I would put in a good used clutch and flywheel and used axles. Used transmission is 60 bucks no core.

Where are you getting parts? Don't you have any of the U pull it junkyards? Around here I could have fixed all of that for about $300 with used parts.

The factory foglights will light the road to the sides and directly in front of the car. The hella 500 driving lights will light the road way down the road. But, you will have to turn them off if there is oncoming traffic, it will blind other drivers like highbeams. I have the hella 500 fogs, not driving, in place of the factory fogs on my wrx. This is a nice compromise, more light than stock fogs and you can leave them on all the time without blinding others. I rewired the foglight switch so I can drive with highbeams and fogs at the same time and it's perfect for back roads, but illegal in some states.

96 has the old style tensioner.

Torque them to 22, then 51. Back off 1/2 turn. Then 25 on the inners and 11 on the outers. Then 1/4 turn, then 1/4 turn more.