subaru360

We did not get the 1.5 engine here in the USA. So I have never worked on one. But what you are describing sometimes happens when the coolant temperature sensor goes bad.

I have a wrx trailer hitch coming tomorrow, so I will be bringing 2 cars this year.

I didn't get my drive yet, but as a diehard Republican and a Subie fan, I can't wait to see this. Reagan was the best president in my lifetime.

No, you don't need an engine support tool. When you pull the trans out, the engine will tip forward. I just run a ratchet strap from the engine to the pitch stopper mount on the firewall to keep the engine in place so it lines up going in/out.

I have a 99 SUS limited I'm selling, buy it off me and save the work $3K on ebay no reserve.

Best year? I kinda like the 99 30th anniversary OB limited I picked up for my mom, it has everything including leather and sunroof, really nice car. Yeah it needed head gaskets, not a big deal. 98% failure rate on the 2.5 HG's, maybe not but probably 50% might be possible. If you are talking about the most reliable outback, I'd agree with the 95 or 96 5 speed. The 2.2 swap into an outback is super popular, I sell a ton of them. People like all the features of the outback with the more reliable 2.2. On the other hand, I've also fixed a ton of 2.5 HG's and never had a repeat failure. The new subie gaskets fix the problem for good.

They are basically universal. It comes with a fuse box and harness. All the wires are extra long, you run them to all the lights, wipers, horn, ignition etc and splice them in at the accessory. It's not a bad option if you have never wired a complete car before and your old harness is in bad shape. The street rod guys use them a lot.

Yep, I heard this news a few weeks ago! Subie FTW!

You might want to look into a painless wiring kit if you aren't too good with wiring. They come with everything you need and wires are color coded and labeled. It makes it easier for you if you aren't confident in doing it from scratch.

I use at least 10-30 or 10-40 in higher mileage subies. 5-30 is too thin once they have some miles on them IMO.

Might have been me. I am in Fleetwood PA. I am an ASE certified master tech, all I do is Subaru. Just send a PM if I can help.

I might be able to camp out this year.

That WRX is dirt cheap for an 05 with low miles, wonder why? The 98 is worth about 3000 maybe 3500 on CL in my area, in some areas you might get more.

I think it is the best block subaru ever made. The rest of it leaves a lot to be desired.

Try the 2 spark plug antifoulers on the 02 sensor if you don't want to spend the money. It works a good percentage of the time. Drill one out so the sensor fits in it, stack them both on the sensor and reinstall. It pulls the sensor back out of the exhaust stream and fools it into thinking the converter works.

$1000 for a used engine installed or $500 to swap is dirt cheap around here, I know because that's what I charge and people are amazed I can do it that cheap.

I know it says that in the manuals, I know everyone on the internet says that. But not entirely true. If you put the crankshaft on the timing mark before you take the belt off, like you should be, you can spin the cams 360 degrees around and you will not bend the valves. I have done this many, many times. On the other hand, if you have the cams in a position where you have open valves and you move the crank, they will hit the pistons.

It's the cats. They go bad. I've been around the block with this issue many times. Aftermarket cats will not solve the problem. They are not efficient enough and you will still get the code eventually. I have had decent luck spacing out the O2 sensor with spark plug anti foulers, I'd say about 80% success rate. It's worth a try for under $10. The real fix is new factory cats and they are big money.

Not very common, I have only seen it once maybe twice, kind of foggy on that.

No, the cats are not part of the y pipe on these.

I'll check my stuff, I might have a spare Y pipe.

To really do it right you would swap the harness and ECU. I think you could still run it on the turbo ecu and harness if you really had to, probably wouldn't run so great, the ECU is mapped for boost. The exhaust is going to be different and so is the crossmember, I think you could leave the turbo crossmember in there. You'd need all the the non turbo intake plumbing too. If the block is still useable, I will buy it from you, let me know.

I would not waste your money on any sort of air filter setup for a wrx. The stock parts work fine for 300+ WHP. If you get the wrong one it will skew the MAF readings and the car will run lean without proper tuning. My car runs 12's @110mph with a stock box and a paper filter. Your money would be much better spent on a turbo downpipe. You can get them for as little as $100 on ebay. While your putting it on, pull the turbo up pipe off and knock the cat out of it. Then tune the car for the new parts and enjoy the power!

Do they have a deadline to register 25 cars and get the free tent?

You have to pull the whole bumper and cover as a unit. In the wheel wells on both sides remove the 10mm bolts. Inside the car pull up the carpeted panels on both sides of the spare tire well. Then you will see the bolts that hold the beam on. Remove those and slide the bumper off. Then you can get at the clips to take the cover off the beam.