subaru360

If you are cheap, pull the sensor out and fill in all the cracks with RTV. Sometimes it works.

Has this car been sitting around for a while, or did it just stop running? The pumps seize up if they sit around too long, I've had a few like that.

I would not even consider it. Axles are easy to change, do it right the first time.

That code is known to come and go. The sensors crack. They get water in them when it's damp out and set a code. It's common.

The fuel pump should be lower than the tank if you can. They push fuel better than pull it. That would probably be on the rear framerail somewhere. You want a gravity feed to the pump if you can. For the MSD box I like to put them under the dash. You can put it under the hood if you have to, they are weather proof, but it will run cooler under the dash.

I was at Harry's U-pull this morning and there were no 5 speeds, only automatics. I think there may be a few 5 speeds at A-Z in new ringgold, but I haven't been up there in a few weeks.

Cool, I think I have seen that car before also now that I think of it, maybe in this thread? I just never noticed the wheels. They will look even better on your car with the raised rear wheelwells. The look kind funky on there with it that low and the stock wheelwell openings. Are you keeping them silver?

The rear bearing on the input shaft goes bad on these. When it goes it takes a lot of other parts with it. It's not cost effective to fix it. Replace it with used one. They can be had cheaply. Around here under $100 if you pull it out or $200-300 pulled out for you.

I have seen 2 things cause this. The box mentioned above goes bad, it's on the panel below the steering column. But these usually work or don't. I've also seen the pins on the back of the cluster not making good contact. Bend them tighter.

Yep, issue 2 has a young SS on the cover!

Nice wheels, perfect for the car. I've never seen that particular style before, with the extra thin ribs on the outside like that.

Do not put that in the radiator, it will not fix the problem. That is a block sealer used in race engines with copper head gaskets. It works fine for that and in situations where you have coolant getting somewhere where it should not be. In the subaru 2.5 you have exhaust gas getting into the coolant. No sealer on the market will fix that.

I agree price is high for 2003 limited. NADA has it at 13,000. I have seen them go for under 10,000 around here. But you wouldn't be getting totally ripped off at 12,000

96 outback 5 speed is a 4.11

The solenoids go bad often, especially when it is cold out. If you don't want to deal with replacing it, you can just take a zip tie and tie the mechanism on the shifter back so it will never engage. I don't have pics of how to do it, but if you lift the console and watch it work it will be fairly obvious how to do it.

The stock wrx springs and struts are fairly soft, to me anyway. I have coilovers in my wrx now and when I drive a stock one it feels soft like any other subie. Are you sure you mean 195/55 14? That is a really short sidewall tire.

In the future, unbolt the bottom of the strut to do axles, it's much easier and nothing breaks. Be sure to mark the camber adjustment bolt and put it back in the same place.

Our local U-pull does the "R" on the windshield if it ran. I will only take an engine from a crashed car. It was at least running when it crashed. I haven't got a bad one yet.

The crank is the same as all the other 2.2's so you can just pick up a used crank and install it rather than try to weld it. The EJ22 turbo block is the strongest block subaru ever made. It's worth more than scrap if you decide to sell it. If you decide to scrap it I will buy it for a fair price, I want one for my wrx.

Around here that car would sell for around $2000. With lower miles it would go for closer to $3000.

I've had walmart put directional tires on backwards. They are cheap but you get what you pay for. I've been looking at buying a bead breaker so I can just mount my own tires.

From the ones I've seen the outbacks went to hyd clutch with the change to the 8 bolt pattern in 99. But if you have both complete cars, you'd have everything you need to do the swap either way, just a little more work if you had to swap pedal assemblies.

It will work, you will need to check and see if they use the same final drive ratio. If not, it's not a big deal, just swap the rear diff also.

It's at raceway park in englishtown nj. Anyone can run, it's $30. http://www.etownraceway.com

Your setup is pretty good. I would expect that to go in the 11's if all is right. As far as launching, the easiest thing to do is to install launch control in the ECU. It works great, just hold it to the floor and let the clutch out, it will stay on the launch control limiter until the car moves. It makes the launch much smoother, no slipping the clutch or dropping it too hard. Go to NASIOC and search for the tiny wrex L/C patch, you do need a tactrix cable to flash the ECU. The stock trans is better than people think, mine has 115,000 and over 50 5000 RPM lauches on it and it's still ok. It's always been hard to downshift to 1st, lots of them are like that. You should go to the WRX vs. EVO race this Sunday in NJ, I'll be there. Sorry about the thread jack to the OP.