subaru360

GT 35R seems to be the hot setup with the rotated mount.

I have never done it myself. But I have seen cars in the junkyard with the diff and axles out and the rear suspension untouched. So I think it can be done.

Reseal or replace the seperator plate. If the rear crank seal doesn't leak leave it alone. They almost never leak until you mess with them. I hear a lot about them leaking after being replaced "just because". The big leak out the back that most people confuse with a rear main leak is the seperator plate.

It's been my experience that if it is in the begining stages of bad head gaskets, and hasn't been severely overheated, it just got a little hot once or twice it's worth it to fix it. If it's been repeatedly overheated or I don't know all the history I recomend replacing the engine with a 2.2 engine since it's much cheaper.

I use walmart store brand oil in everything. All the cars I work on get regular oil. The 360 gets walmart 2 stroke oil, the WRX gets walmart synthetic. Never had any issues.

Cool, you get a much better selection of cars over there.

I'm guessing this alarm has auto start? They probably tied into the neutral switch so it doesn't start in gear. Something is wired incorrectly, take it back to them and have them fix it. If they can't, have them remove it and refund your money.

I have an inverter, I don't know how strong it is, I've run a laptop, a dvd player or a few lightbulbs with it. I have a generator too,but the last time we used it we blew the engine in it. Typical for me, if it has an engine I can break it!

It's possible to sand it and re-clear it. I've even sanded the peeling clear coat with 2000 grit wet paper and buffed it and it doesn't look too bad.

I'm in for waffle house. I'll pass on the grits.

The pinion gear doesn't break, usually first or second gear does. My wrx can't even spin the tires on dry pavement if I want it too. I can leave at the track at 6,000 rpm slightly slipping the clutch and it just goes. But you're right if you dump the clutch stuff breaks. It doesn't work well anyway, if you dump the clutch it just bogs the engine.

The cover and bumper have to come off as a unit. There are a few small bolts on the edge of the cover in the wheelwell. Then take out the carpeted floor panels in the trunk on both sides of the spare tire compartment. Under them you will find 2 17mm bolts. Take them out and the whole bumper assembly slides out towards the back of the car.

Hmm wonder what they will put in this for a transmission? Something new? Something from toyota? How about a rear diff R180?

Just a suggestion, but check craigslist and ebay for WRX takeoff wheels and tires. You could probably upgrade to 16" or 17" wheels and tires for less that those tires. A lot of people take off stock WRX wheels at low mileage.

You got the pics working here now. I think that might be some sort of frankenstein engine. It looks like a turbo exhaust to me. But I don't think there ever was a JDM EJ25 turbo. All the older JDM turbo engines are EJ20's. My guess is that this is something somebody put together at some point and not a factory engine, possibly an EJ25 shortblock with EJ20 turbo heads and intake?

I've read that toyota is working with subaru to build a new light, cheap rwd car. A sort of reincarnation of the old AE86 corolla of Initial D fame. I guess this is the car.

To post pics got to http://www.photobucket.com and upload them there. Then just copy and paste the IMG tag into your post here. Or email me a pic to tomrichdale@yahoo.com and I'll post it here for you. If I saw it I could probably tell you what you have.

Seems like you might have a turbo engine. The turbo's have wiring bulkhead plugs on both sides above the valve covers. Seems like you are describing the turbo exhaust too. On the top of the block in the alternator area it will say EJ25,EJ20,EJ22 etc. see what it says there. You can't spin an engine by hand fast enough to measure compression.

Nope, unscrew the shift knob and pull the whole shifter trim up off the stick with the boot still on it.

I have a few of the dual port headers from a legacy if it's the same and you need one.

I check them for straightness. If they aren't warped, they don't have to be resufaced. Some people just do it anyway, your choice.

I think you meant the trim around the parking brake handle, you don't need to take the actual handle out.

I know there are a few right not at harry's in pennsburg. I don't know far you want to drive. If not dave says he has one too.

Nope you don't have to drain anything or take anything else off. Just 2 or 3 bolts hold the bracket to the block.

The tensioner bolts to an aluminum bracket that bolts to the block. I looked and the spare one I have is for the newer style tensioner, won't work for you. But you should be able to find one easily.