subaru360

I wish I could sell them for the prices you're quoting. I'd gladly take the money. Heck I didn't even pay that much for my 02 WRX. Oh well no point in argueing, the prices are what they are.

KBB is way out there on pricing. The NADA book is more real world. A nice '99 outback with low miles could sell at a used lot around here for $4000 maybe $4500 if it was a limited.

The car on ebay wasn't that nice. It had rusty quarter panels and various scrapes and dents. I got a '99 last month a lot nicer than that for $500. There are deals out there you just have to look and be in the right place at the right time. That and being upfront and honest is the way to make money.

I don't see why that's BS, I've bought 6 or 7 outbacks in the past year from private owners with clear titles in the $300-$700 range.

Is that like a flux capacitor?

I think the up pipe is cobb, but I really don't know, it could be the sti one. I've got to take a closer look at it and compare it to pics online. I know it's not the wrx one, the stock one is sitting in my garage. I got the stock wrx exhaust back on. I took it out for a drive. It's quick, not like get yourself in trouble quick, but it goes pretty good. I'd guess it could run a high 13 in the 1/4. I could be wrong but I've been in and around drag cars for years and I'm a good judge of it. It's nice and quiet now just cruising around. The trans is a little rough into 4th sometimes. I'm going to have to take it out eventually and put a synchro in it I think. I might be able to get a used trans and keep this one for a spare, I've got to see. Still have to get a radiator and tires for it this week.

It has a catless uppipe and it's staying in there, chunks of cat in the turbo is not a good idea, not one of subaru's better designs. I think it's cobb, but whatever, it's just a short piece of almost straight pipe, I don't think one is better than another. It has a cobb catted down pipe and that's staying too, it's a really nice part. I'm putting the stock wrx catback back on so it's quiet. I don't mind losing a few horsepower for a quiet car. I'm actually just about to head out the garage to do it now. Someday I might look for an STI muffler, but I don't think it's really much better than the wrx one. I don't want an aftermarket muffler, I like the quiet stocker. Other than that the car is staying like it is. I might get an STI intercooler if a deal came up. I'm not planning on headers ever.

I just noticed the trunk emblem. It's supposed to have the subaru letters across it. It looks ok the way it is now I guess, not too ricy. It does have some blue mesh stuff behind the grille and a sticker on the hoodscoop that will probably have to go. The tint might have to go too, I don't feel like getting pulled over all the time.

Yeah I buy them for about the same. I would have paid $1000 for this one. It had lower miles and was a limited. I've never been able to sell one for $4500 yet. I can get $3000 real easy. I think I could have got more for this one. Oh well, there's more where that one came from.

That car just sold for $1900 buy it now.

I was driving the 360 the other day and I felt guilty knowing the wrx was coming soon. I'll still be driving the 360 for all short trips it's awesome on gas, I've got almost 40 mpg a few times. We've been using the suburban in the pics for all long trips and it gets like 10 mpg city and 20 highway, that's mainly why we got the wrx, we do a lot of PA to ME trips and it sucks to spend 300 bucks on gas, plus the wrx is just cool!

It needs a synchro for 4th gear, a radiator, tires, and I have to put a catback exhaust on it, the seller kept the one it had. It's got a couple dents and dings but nothing horrible. No big turbo anytime soon. It's got some goodies from cobb, up pipe, downpipe, air filter and the accessport. It had the cobb catback, but it was kinda loud for me, I think I'm going to put a stock sti catback on it eventually. I might get an STI intercooler someday if I find a deal, that's about it. Bugeyes are my favorite Imprezas, I always wanted one.

Oh and yes a 2.2 or an older 2.5 will work in a 99 with no issues, just will have 4 extra holes in the bellhousing, not an issue.

Oh well, $1800 is nuts. Maybe I'll buy it when it doesn't sell. I'm good at waiting sellers out. I'd consider a grand but would go look at the car in person first. I see it has typical rusty quarters and a few dents. For comparison, I sold a 99 outback a few weeks ago, nice clean car 180,000 only a few scratches on the bumper mechanically 100% the guy drove it home 1200 miles with no problems for $2200 on the bay. This car in question is worth a little more, it's a limited with lower miles.

After major disapointment about the '87 GL hatch my girlfriend won on Ebay turning out to be a rust bucket, we more than made up for it today. We got a WRX! It was an amazing deal from a nice guy on NASIOC. I never expected us to be able to afford a WRX. I think we're both kinda still in shock but it's in the driveway now. It's got lots of cool extras, but does need a little work. Here's some pics from a rest stop on the way home-

Search on this board for "torque bind" and "EJ25 head gasket" these are the two major problems you want to avoid in a used outback. Basically drive the car in very tight circles and be sure there is no binding. If it's a 99 or older take the car on a long test drive on the highway and drive it hard and be sure it doesn't overheat. If it's an 00-up look for coolant drips under the engine.

Oh and if you need an ignition switch with key let me know I have one for $30 shipped.

To get an automatic out of gear without the key, pop off the trim around the shifter. In the front of the shifter there will be a hole. Stick a screwdriver in the hole and push down and hold while moving the shifter out of park.

2.5's usually bend the valves when the belt jumps. If it idles smooth you might have got lucky, they idle rough when valves bend. A compression test will tell you a lot more. You need a tester with a long hose for a 2.5

That engine is not a good choice to swap into a left hand drive car. Nothing fits and there are no wiring diagrams available in english. The best advice I can give you is to get rid of all the twin turbo stuff. Get yourself a header or stock exhaust from a wrx and run a single turbo. I'd run the whole thing off either a 91-94 turbo legacy harness and ecu or a harness and ecu from a wrx. The wrx stuff would be better since it's tunable. Good luck you will need it! Rebuilding turbo's is not something you generally do at home.

The head look to have had at least some work done. They look like they have been hot tanked to me, so it's probably not bs. I wouldn't even mess with that engine anyway. I'd replace it with a used 2.2, I don't bother with a 2.5 if it had a major failure like that.

He's fishing for a sucker with that price. He might get $1900, it's got low miles and people are coming into tax money now. Notice the guy had the heads off in the car. Probably pulled the heads and sent them out without looking at the block. My opinion is a valve head got jammed up and broke the cylinder. Oh well, I will watch it and bid at the end if it doesn't go up. Fixed, I'd price the car around $3000-$4000 depending on if the body is fixed or not.

No way $1900, the body is rough also. I'll watch it, I might buy it for $800 or so.

That is not a good car to flip for a profit. You want to buy as cheap as possible. Never have more into the car than your intended profit. Look for stuff with bad engines, bad trans, easy front hit etc. Buy for $500 sell for $2000-$3000.

I do at least one of these a month. It's literally 10 more bolts, nothing else if you have the heads off the engine. If you're doing HG's you have the intake off, all the wires umplugged, all the hoses unhooked, radiator out, a/c compressor flipped over, ps pump sitting on the fender, exhaust dropped.