subaru360

I'd buy that for 2 grand. Good deal! Are you getting a good title or salvage?

x2 on everything above. Drive on the highway hard for at least 20 miles before you buy it and be sure it doesn't get hot. LOTS of these end up on used lots after traded in because they have bad head gaskets. The price is kind of high also. I'd offer less or shop around, there are much better deals out there. I've sold several nice 97 legacy's this year for $3000.

Is that the new mazda?

You have it right. It's 22 then 51. The loosen the bolts up. Then it's I think 23 on the inners and 11 on the outers(check those numbers I don't recall exactly) Then turn them 90 degrees once, then 90 degrees again. You don't really need an angle meter. 90 degrees is 1/4 turn. I point the ratchet straight up and turn it 1/4 turn. Follow the sequence to tighten. Start on the inners and work outwards.

Yeah, the outback blocks don't give any extra height. You could get them out and install them. I think they might be spot welded to the crossmembers, I don't recall exactly. If they are it's just a matter of breaking the spotwelds. They just lower the drivetrain for better angles on the C/V joints. Lots of people seem to be running the Outback struts without the blocks and don't seem to be having any trouble. What you might want to look into is the Outback rear trailing arms, I think they are longer. Some of the older leagacy's I've seen lifted have the rear wheels pulled forward. I think the longer outback arms will help with that.

Some of 2.2's had a block off plate on the intake where the valve would go. Most didn't. Even then the hole in the back of the head isn't drilled and tapped for the EGR pipe. I've heard that if you try to drill the hole you hit a water jacket. I've never tried myself so this is second hand info. So besides buying lots more parts, there isn't an easy way to add it.

Do you have emissions inspections where you live? It will fit and run fine, but you will have a check engine light with an EGR code if the 2.2 doesn't have an EGR valve. If you don't have to worry about emissions and can live with a chekc engine light it should be ok. Use the y pipe from the donor car.

Most likely valves are bent. Every 2.5 I've seen break the belt bent valves. On the 2.2 swap. It's the cheapest way out. 95-98 2.2 will fit. If you have an auto, get one from an auto. If you have a 5 spd get one from a 5 spd. Auto has EGR ,5 spd doesn't ALMOST always, there are some oddballs out there like california cars. 95 2.2 will be dual port exhaust and use the same y pipe. 96-98 will need a single port y pipe from the donor car. All the wiring and hoses plug in. The P/S lines are different where they bolt to the intake, not a major deal, just let them hang or if it bothers you make a simple bracket. If you have a donor car swap lines. Swap the flexplates if it's an auto. The one on the 2.2 will be slightly smaller. $500 is a good price if the donor car offered is what you need.

With a big shipper like DAS in the range of $800-1200 with a smaller shipper you could possibly get it a little lower. Check http://www.dependableautoshippers.com or for smaller carriers post a wanted ad on http://www.uship.com Cars from PA rust horribly.

-

I'd leave it. I don't think there is much if any difference.

I'm selling a nice 97 Outback for $3000. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82467 I could get it shipped for $600-1000 depending

Platinum plugs foul really easy. I would recomend a fresh set of NGK standard plugs, crank it over with the plugs out to clear out the cylinders. (unhook the coil pack while doing this so you don't start a fire) Charge up the battery and see if it starts. It might just be fouled plugs and everyone is overthinking it. The timing of the injectors isn't going to make a difference at start or idle. If it has good spark at the right time and any fuel at all it'll at least try to start. A set of plugs should be like $10, it's worth a shot to me.

Yup, that's what the one I was thinking of.

I think all 96 subaru cars only get the visual and gas cap test in PA. There was a problem with the OBD2 system where the monitors all reset every time you shut off the car. So the state exempted them or something like that. Other brands get the OBD2 scan for 96.

I've considered building one of these. I've been kicking around the idea of a rhd TT outback wagon. But rather than use a beat to death mail car, I'd buy a whole front clip from one of the importers. Rather than the hack job some people do with imported rhd clips, I'd take the time to pull all the parts, drill out all the spot welds from both the donor clip and the car, reweld everthing nicely and put it back together. The prices quoted are fair and about what I'd charge. I don't know if there is a big market for it out there. In any state with OBD2 emissions checks, this would be a big no-no. The JDM motors aren't OBD2.

Don't feel bad, my neighbor blew up one of these putting in an aftermarket radio. I sold him one off a parts car.

I think one the Outbacks I have now has it. I'll check tomorrow.

OK so the belt is verifed to be on right. You have good cranking compression. The injectors are firing. You have fuel pressure. Have you considered that you might have just fouled the plugs so bad that they won't fire? At this point $10 for fresh plugs doesn't seem too bad. Also are you getting spark at all 4 plug wires and what does the spark look like? Is it bright and blue or dull and orange? I'm sure you'll get it going.

No warranty on anything from the U-pull yards. I pick my parts from cars with very obvious accident damage. So most likely they were in working order at the time of the wreck.

Around here the transmissions go for about $65 if you pull them yourself. So I'd say about $300 in parts at the U-Pull. Trans, rear diff, rear axles, crossmember, rear hubs, driveshaft and gas tank are the big ones, plus lots of little things. Tank might be hard to come by lots of yards poke a hole in them to drain. In the long run might be easier to find a wrecked car for donor parts.

I was formerly a GM dealer tech for 10 years. I would not put dexcool in ANYTHING ever! I've seen the problems this stuff causes.

Seems like an air pocket. Or possibly the previous owner dumped in tons of stop leak and plugged up the radiator.

The leak seal stuff is made to stop leaks from seals, not gaskets or anything sealed with a sealant. But it can't hurt anything to try it.

The price on that one is a little high. I'm selling my extra one for $500. It runs but needs a lot of work.