subaru360

The leak seal stuff is made to stop leaks from seals, not gaskets or anything sealed with a sealant. But it can't hurt anything to try it.

The price on that one is a little high. I'm selling my extra one for $500. It runs but needs a lot of work.

If we could get the Elten here in the US, I would buy one. It's a neat looking car. They pulled off the modern 360 look with it really well.

The egr valve is on rear driver's side of the intake manifold. You'll see a metal pipe going down from it to the rear of the driver's side cylinder head.

I just noticed somebody around the corner from me has a LGT sedan. It looks like the LGT has the same taller grille as an Outback.

I think it's the other way around. Subaru has always been a lower volume manufacturer that appeals to people who like something different. The new Impreza for example is way too mainstream looking, to me it looks like a Mazda or something. I think they risk losing longtime customers because the cars are losing what makes a Subaru unique. Hybrids are a joke, it would take so long to realize the savings in fuel cost vs. the initial extra expense it's not even worth it. Diesel is also a waste for the same reasons, they might get slighly higher mileage but then you have the initial extra cash outlay to get one and diesel fuel cost more than gas. It's even more expensive for the new low sulphur diesel.

If you take the fuel line off it will spray fuel all over if you turn the key on. Do you mean while checking sensors? If so, no need to disconnect anything.

The remote starter switch can go from either the battery positive or the battery cable positive terminal on the starter to the male spade terminal on the starter.

It's not as simple as just bolting on a turbo. The turbo has to be sized to the engine. You need the right engine management for a turbo and you'll need to upgrade the fuel system. Do your research before getting in to a project like this. If you're new to working on cars and still want to go ahead with it, probably your best bet is to swap a complete turbo engine with harness and ecm to make it as simple as possible for yourself.

Did you plug the coolant temperature sensor back in? That would make it hard to start and flood it fouling the plugs.

Not sure where you are in PA, but Harry's in pennsburg had a few of those mirrors when I was there last week. I think they were power though. As far as I know legacy mirrors interchange 95-99 only.

I would check it over well for a vacum leak. With the engine running at idle spray around the intake and hoses with some carb cleaner and see if the idle changes. If that's good try moving the injector on the cylinder that missfires to another cylinder and see if the miss follows the injector.

It's an Outback or it at least was, it's just ugly now. The roof is a giveaway. Legacy wagons didn't have the raised roof. Those are also outback rear seats. It's very obvious it's been painted and they painted over all the trim.

Those are both wheel cylinder rebuild kits.

I use the gray sealant, it's worked the best for me. A good thing about having the engine out and on a stand is that you can tip it so the head is up, then when you take the cams out the buckets and shims don't all fall out at once. It's only like 10 more nuts and bolts to get the engine out. Subaru's are the easiest engines out there to pull out and get back in.

Some states require a working odometer to pass inspection.

You are on the right track with the cam seals. The other common places EJ22's leak are the seperator plate on the back of the engine under the flywheel, the O-ring on the cam plug at the rear of the pass side head and the valve cover gaskets. Subaru has an updated seperator plate that is supposed to seal better.

I see lots of EJ25's with rod bearing failure also. EJ22 is much more reliable.

EJ25 dohc phase 1 you will have to pull the cam pullies and then the cams to get the heads off. It can be done in the car, but it makes the job a LOT harder. It's very easy to pull the engine out.

That's correct and the LSI would have a 2.5

That does sound like the typical head gasket. Is this a 2.5? Typical head gasket cost DIY- $200, independent shop $1000-$1500, dealer $2000

Around here it's $900- $1200 for a used 2.5 or $200-500 for a used 2.2. If you don't mind pulling it, you can get 2.2's at the U-pull it for $80 all day long. I've never seen a 2.5 in a U-pull.

1- Not a big deal I always leave the bracket bolted to the compressor, take out the 4 bolts to the head and flip the whole thing over. 2- again, not a big deal 3- I'm assuming you mean the dowel pins, not the long threaded studs. If it's the dowel pins, sometimes they stick in the block and sometimes in the trans. Use a long punch to knock it out from behind and put it where you need it.

Hardly, it's only 25 HP difference. I've done a few of these swaps and it works out well.