subaru360

If you're doing head gaskets, it's 10 more bolts and the engine is out. 4 bellhousing, 4 torque converter and and 2 engine mount. You'd be nuts to lean over a fender, kill your back and not have room to work or see trying to do them in the car.

I probably don't see warped heads since I won't do gaskets if the motor was cooked. I always replace the ones that have been cooked a few times with a 2.2 instead.

What the GM limited slip additive does is make the clutches in a clutch type posi slip more so it doesn't bind on turns. When I was big into drag racing I used to leave out the limited slip additive and run straight gear oil in a posi rear to make the the posi lock harder. After a long highway drive when the rear got hot it would really bind up in turns without the additive. The only problem with putting it in an automatic transmission is that it will cause the clutches to slip. That's why it helps the TB. But along with letting the transfer clutches slip more, you are also letting the rest of the trans slip more. I can see putting it in an older car that's not worth a lot as a last resort. But I don't know if I would put it in something that I really cared about. Replacing the transfer clutches and the solenoid is a lot less expensive than overhauling a whole trans that you killed by making it slip.

I do a lot of these head gaskets and engines. I would never even consider doing HG's in the car. It's SO much easier to pull the engine. With the engine out and on a stand, I tip it to one side do one HG, tip it the other way and do the other. Makes for a clean neat easy job. My personal opinion on why the original gaskets fail is bad design on the original gaskets. I've never had an updated gasket fail. I've also never had a warped head or block. I check them for straightness and cracks and they are always good. That makes me believe it's just a bad gasket design. I shoud say I won't touch a 2.5 phase one that's been seriously overheated. I always recomend replacing those with a used 2.2 I'll only do the gaskets if I know for sure it only was running warm or got hot and was shut right off.

This sounds like a wheel bearing. Find a smooth straight road. Drive about 50 or 60 mph. Turn the wheel slightly left or slightly right. Just enough to barely move the car over. If the noise changes it's wheel bearings. When you turn it takes the load off one side bearing and the noise goes away.

You might need the wire set for an older JDM wrx. They had the coil on top of the intake.

You can get the 106 code if you cross the two vacum hoses that go to the solenoids. If you cross them, you only get vacum to the map sensor when the egr valve is open. I did it once. Figured it out real quick.

Mechanically the 08 is a nice car. It's well built and I can't blame you for buying one. I just don't like the styling, I haven't grown to like it either. Oh well I'm sure it's going to be a great car for you for years to come.

I would buy this car without any hesitation for $300. The engines in these are very, very good. Some will say this is the best block subaru ever made.

They didn't actually let us out. We just told them we wouldn't take it. We never sent a deposit. It wasn't as described. He said expect a little rust. Fenders falling off is more than a little to me. I suppose he could leave my girlfriend a negative feedback if he wanted to.

It was kind of sad. It looked a lot better in the pics. I think the seller got the shadows just right to hide the rust. Someday we will find a nice EA81 hatch or wagon. But to make us feel a little better I think we are getting a wrx soon. I don't want to jinx myself by telling all the details but it's an amazing deal, I never expected to be able to afford one.

Bad news. We went to pick up the car today. After a 2 hour drive we found out it's got major rust. The quarters were all rusty the lip was gone completly. The bottom few inches of the fenders were completly gone. The fenders were just flapping in the breeze, the bottoms weren't connected anymore. The rocker panels under the doors were getting ready to go too. We backed out of the deal. If anyone wants a rusty hatch for $1500, I'll give you all the info. We kinda wanted to get a nice one.

That's the plan for now, save on gas. She's been driving my suburban around lately and that is the worst on gas, like 10 mpg with a lift and 33's.

Check this out, my girlfriend just bought this on the bay. It was a great deal, we couldn't pass it up. We're picking it up monday. 1 owner 111,000 miles, even has A/C

You might want to try unbolting the 2 motor mounts and jacking the engine up a little. If you jack it up on just one side it will tip a little and give you some more room. Use a piece of wood between the oil pan and the jack.

I like the subaru gaskets myself for a stock 2.5 dohc phase 1 engine. If it's a performance build, some of the multi layer stuff is nice. Cometic is a nice head gasket. But for a regular old blown head gasket ej25 phase one I stick with the subaru gaskets. I get them for $45 each, I do lots of them, never had one come back, can't beat that.

I've tried using those flats on the cams and it always slips on me and starts to round off. I guess you have had better luck with them.

I can get my air gun in there with a short socket with the radiator and fans out. Some guns are longer than others. I always pull the radiator and fans and both hoses out as a unit when I work on timing belts cam seals etc. You can do the job without taking them out, but it takes me 5 mins to get them out and makes the job so much easier. Especially on 2.5's it helps me get a good look at the marks on the sprockets and the lines on the belt to be sure they are lined up. If I'm pulling the sprockets to do head gaskets the engine is out. No way would I do it in the car. I know that it can be done with the engine in but it's a big pain.

The tool is nice. Maybe someday I'll pick one up, I work on these a lot. But for now while the belt is still on I hit the cam bolts real quick with my 1/2 air gun to break them loose. Works great 9 times out of 10. To put them back on I put the sprockets on just hand tight, put the belt on and torque the cam sprocket bolts.

You did a smart thing. I get a lot of cars that way. Offer what you think it's worth and wait. I often get calls and emails a month later accepting my offer. If not there is always something else.

I would not buy it for $1275 to resell. There isn't enough profit in it for me. Even if you put a belt on it, it's a $1500 car at best on the bay. I would buy in the $300-$500 range for something like that. Yeah it's a Subaru and we all know it will run forever, but to the average bay shopper it's still a 13 year old rusty car.

I can get used ones sometimes, I've found a few. I might be going to the yard tomorrow if anyone needs one. The yard nearest to me gets a lot of insurance auction wrecks that don't seem to be rusted as bad as the typical junkyard subies.

I'd agree check the filler tube. They always rust out, it's a very common problem.

I'm sure somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the forrester xt turbo lower than a standard forrester? You said you want more ground clearance so that might not work out too well. Outback struts on a legacy is a quick easy swap. It will give you actually more ground clearance than an outback since the drivetrain isn't dropped, but slightly worse cv angles, although nobody has had a problem with that so far. I wouldn't get involved in putting a turbo on a non-turbo EJ. It's been done and it's worked but at what cost and how reliable is it? I would do it right and go with a complete wrx swap engine harness etc.

KBB is a joke, edmunds is better, but I prefer NADA, its very close to real world.