CNY_Dave

I would say you want to pull the wire that goes to the Duty C solenoid, that should fully lock it under normal circumstances.

Noise while coasting... only one like that I recall is a manual center-diff bearing noise while coasting.

I put a 1.8 prelude motor into an older civic 4sp that originally had the 1100cc motor (76? 79?). Up to redline in 4th (maybe 80 at best) it was a 305-camaro killer. With the stock 12 inch tires on it it would burn rubber if you floored it while rolling in 1st, would burn heavy into 2nd, chirp a little into 3rd. Bigger engine into lighter car = magic. Torque-steered myself right off the road with that SOB.

I had to temporarily drive mine (auto) with a manual switch for the AWD- all or nothing. Going downhill the rear would slide before the front because the braking from the front would be transmitted through to the rear wheels. I would fishtail down hills that with the AWD functioning normally were no sweat. Took a pretty steep hill to notice. Sidehill under power would not tend to slide the rear more, or if so by much, I think.

Aw crap- did they use the correct alternator? Must be the H6 specific or all kinds of odd stuff happens. This is also a symptom of the throttle position sensor, easy fix to try, about 130 bucks. TPS can be tested in place with an ohmmeter and some patience, two more screws after getting to it to test and it is out. Not sure but the freeSSM software might be able to actually read the TPS position.

Depending on the metals, coolants (proper or not) and such, adding a ground wire where the design didn't call out for one could end up completing a circuit that would enhance corrosion. *Shouldn't*, of course, but I've seen stranger.

A radiator ground wire might actually be a really bad idea.

If both sides are the same pressure (and not 0/ambient 15psi) I have to ask, are you really sure the compressor is turning? If you are experience working on such that will be an insulting question, I know...

"Why would a newer outback be more tolerant" was the bear I was poking...

All the autos have VTD maybe?

New snows go in the back so that the fronts skid. When the fronts skid, you go straight. When the rears skid, the sass end of the car drifts out sideways. Me, I'd prefer the better pulling and stopping power, I'll handle the back end stepping out...

It's a description of the part- http://exhaustdirect.com/Split-Flange/ It spits so it can wedge behind the bulge for the donut and gives something to bolt to. On mine one of these no longer grabs behind the bulge so I just have springs pulling the exhaust forwards.

It may be because they want to be far away from the blame chain if you have problems with the AWD.

This time don't bin the used parts, someone will always want spares!

CRAP. Fuse blew again, it might be the rear-hatch switch wiring although I did open the hatch after replacing the fuse. Anyway, now the Security light is flashing, and the cruise light in the switch comes on but cruise only works for about 10 seconds. I am searching but not finding a thread where this was a symptom. I have to drive about 8 hours tomorrow, all freeway, and the cruise MUST be working or my back will be wrecked!

Rear trans mount 1st guess, maybe engine mounts as well.

I had a bolt snap off when I took mine off, fortunately it was in an easy spot to drill and helicoil.

'04 was a year of change for the 4EAT, could be the month of manufacture is important to figure out what should be in there. Try going to www.car-part.com and look for a trans for your car and see if it asks for the month, and if it comes up wiuth different parts for late/early in the model year.

Pin. There are two of them. Thay make getting the thing off a pain, they fit quite snugly.

It was fuse #2 in the engine compartment fuse box, labeled 'cabin' something or other. Turns out the radio indeed does not work if the memory backup supply isn't connected.

The memory for radio settings, last heater settings, and trip mileage all need +12V with the key off, so I assume that would be fused somewhere.. I'm really hoping it's not something like what you mention.

Major cluster of grounds on the intake, rt side, on top...

I ask if all those things are on the same fuse, but am pretty sure they are not. Drove the car, everything worked, parked car, got in, no dome lights, no radio, trip meter had forgotten its mileage, clock had forgotten the time, heater controls had forgotten their settings. Instead of 2 beeps from locking with the fob, and getting a chirp after 3 clicks, it locks the doors but gives me 5 chirps. Were it not for the fact the radio does not work at all I'd guess simply it's the 'backup power' fuse, which isn't labeled as such and I have only checked the 15A radio fuse so far (it's good). Would you expect the radio to not work without the 'memory' 12V supply?

They are dirt cheap at subaru too.

Maybe.