ferox

I think you might be looking at the idle up solenoid...if memory serves. I removed mine a long time ago. What does it have connected to it? Wires and vacuum lines or just wires?

You should look into either the GM alt swap or the Nissan alt swap. They are both more powerful and more plentiful.

Check your transmission mounts.

I was visting my parents for Thanksgiving yesterday and looked out their window to see this sweet wagon across the street. It was such a nice build I figure it has to be a member here. I hope the owner doesn't mind me posting a pic, I am just curious. Nice work.

Barely, but if you are just running to Copper and back you will be fine. You have to go slow in the snow anyway. Not to lecture, but be careful. It's not PNW snow and it can catch you off-guard. It's hard to describe how slippery it is, and a lot of the roads where you are going are just chiseled out of a cliff face with no guard rail. It's a very cool place nonetheless. It will be frozen in Leadville, so if you have the skills, you should put the Weber on before the trip. But as GD pointed out, if you are not sure of your abilities it might be better to get there and then do the swap. It doesn't sound like you have enough time to get the Weber and do the swap before you leave anyway, so I hope you have a place to work on cars where you are going...preferrably heated. Make sure you get the manual choke. Warming up your car is a big deal when you are 10,000 feet up in the Rockies in winter.

1) Fitment is a word. 2) It is a more accurate and therefore a better word than "fit" in this context. 3) Keep your comments on the subject of the thread and not the OP please.

Nice looking machine.

Sounds like Leadville or Silverton or something. I lived in Durango for a while which is only 6500 feet and even that elevation made a huge difference in performance. I think you will want the Weber with a manual choke, and you might try calling some shops in the area you plan to move to or other high elevation Colorado towns to find somebody that might be able to give you some advice on jetting. It might take a few calls to find someone that knows about carbs, but due to the 4x4 scene I am sure you can find someone.

One guy said stop being such a worry wart. The justy board did not tell you to stop being paranoid. You can however stop coming over here and dis-ing the Justy board. But I am just one guy, not the USMB.

You would be surprised and how much "spring" wood actually has. I use the hot-cold strategy when I do these. I put the bearings in a plastic bag in the freezer the night before. In the summer I set the knuckle in the sun for a couple hours, in the winter I just use a torch (some people put them in the oven). You could also set it in front of a space heater. With a hot/warm knuckle and frozen bearings, I drift the bearings in with a brass punch on the outer portion of the bearing. It only take light taps this way. Just a bunch of little taps uniformly around the circumference of the outer part of the bearing. If you do it this way just be very deliberate about placement of the punch on the bearing. I usually file the punch a little bit to make sure it contacts the bearing correctly. I have a press and a giant socket set but I don't even bother using them. You can also make a simple bearing press with a large nut and bolt and some large washers and such. Whichever method you choose, the main thing you have to make sure you do is apply force/pressure on the outer metal portion of the bearing as evenly as possible.

Here is a basic write up: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491\ You don't have to do it exactly like the write up. I personally don't use a hammer on my tie-rod ends. You can get a puller for that for about $6. It's not written very prominently in the write-up, but if you remove the bolt from the inner pivot joint of the control arm it will give you enough play in the suspension to remove the axle from the knuckle after you have loosen everything else up. You don't actually even have to remove the knuckle, but it might be easier to do it that way since it's your first time. One of many lessons from GD is to go to a bearing supplier and get bearing number 6207-2RS-C3. Get some seals too. Two bearings and two seals for each front wheel. In Portland I have used Mcquire Bearing and Applied Industrial, and I am sure there are plenty of others.

As GD said the Weber is probably your best bet, but if you are set on replacing it with another Hitachi you should get one for an '84. They are similar to your original but better...relatively speaking of course.

Sounds like after your choke disengages it won't run. Some more information would be helpful. Did you replace the carb with new or used? Carbs for the Justy are specific to the year of the vehicle. Has the carb been adjusted? Did you install it yourself?

Some Baskin and Robbins will also sell you dry ice.

Hey now nipper. I will admit that proboards has a disporportionate amount of punks, tourists, and arm-chair experts, but there are good people on there with good advice. I don't know why the hell that guy had a problem with your oil cooler set-up. He posts like once a year, but don't summarily judge everyone else. There's less than 1,200 people on that forum. USMB has over 20,000 last time I checked. Just because a question isn't answered doesn't mean members are disrespecting you. Not all forums can be like the USMB. If anything we could use more solid adults like you to help set the tone and lead by example. Don't let the children get the best of you by personally banishing proboards and publicly dis-ing the one serious Justy forum. {Hijack not intended}

I have been working on my Justy for a while now and they are great little go-carts. However, if you get one, plan on doing some work on it and probably a simple mod or two. Nipper came up with a good modification for increasing oil volume. They have an I3, so they don't get benefits of the H4 that we are all familiar with. Most of them only have five digit odometers and people tend to insist that their 20 year old Justy only has 29,000 original miles or whatever. They get 30-35 mpg not the 40 that people advertise, and people tend to ask too much for them in my opinion. Parts are harder to get than ea82s, but they are out there. They were sold in the US from 87 to 94. 89-94 are Gen IIs, but 89's and some 90's are carbed. I would recommend a Gen II because they have symetrical front axles. The 87-88s have different length front axles. 87's only came in 2WD. I am not trying to talk you out of one, but those are some of the main points to know. The ea82 can probably come close to the Justys mpg, but not as easily depending on how you drive. They are probably more maintenance free than the Justy. I like my Justy, but I got into it planning on doing a lot of work to it. They are cool cars in a fun novel sort of way. But if you just want a dependable car that will mostly just need regular maintenance then definately go for the ea82. A Justy would be dependable also, but most likely more work initially. An ea82 would also be much easier to EJ.

Portland, aka PDX, P-town, stumptown, little Beirut, Oregon

He originally posted that he wasn't getting power to the fuel pump as well. Apparently he is at least getting intermittent power to the pump if it started for a short while, but I did not see where that was addressed in this thread. If he has never checked the fusible links, he probably should anyway. They are easy to get to, and it is never bad to see what condition they are in.

Did someone already say check the fusible links?

The Justy was sold in the US from '87-'94 and was 100% Subaru. After '94 it became a rebadged Suzuki Swift but was not sold in the US.

I don't have a good answer for you, but I can give a few insights if you decide to go look for something. The inner seat rail attachment is approximately one inch higher than the outer. Justy seats are definitely narrower than other Subaru seats. I put Suzuki Swift GTT seats in my '88 and it was a PITA, but the Suzuki mounting system was very different than Subaru. I have a feeling you might not get much input on this topic, but I would suggest looking for something with a simple four point attachment like Subaru. You might be able to squeeze Loyale seats in, and (I don't work on Loyales) they might already have the same or similar height difference between the inner and outer seat rails. Loyales were also made in '88, which is a good sign in Subaru-world.

Even a good rack can have some backlash, which can make the steering wander both left and right. It's nice to take out the backlash anyway, even if that's not the true problem. It's something to eliminate as a possibility anyway.

If I am not mistaken, what I am really looking for is a 1.5 pitch, 60 degree taper nut, that is a larger diameter(21 mm?)than stock Subies lug nuts. I'll look into it. I found these: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75442&highlight=studs http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31721&highlight=stud

Yep, got mine. Cali model. Average fuel efficiency rated at 25 MPG.

So do Subaru wheels use special acorn nuts or something? Would an acorn/taper nut with 1.5 thread pitch not work?