ferox

I am just wondering if there is some reason why I can't/shouldn't put 1.5 pitch studs in my hubs so I can get ball seat lug nuts to run alloy pugs. Seems like it would be easier than trying to get pug nuts and while I don't have a problem with using the ball seat adapters, it would be nice to just run ball seat lug nuts. Is there any reason why I should not do this? The only reason I question it is because it seems there would be more talk of this as an option, but I mostly just hear about people searching for pug nuts.

I have been trying to figure this one out for a long time. I do labeled totes and shelves for storage, but I have accepted the fact that tools and parts are tidal. I clean them up, and in no time they have washed over the shop like a wave on a beach. Such is the heartbeat of an active work space. I still clean, organize, and purge even though I know I will be doing it all over again very soon. Yep, I carry everything in an old kitchen sink, just kidding. I do, however, bring about 120 lbs of tools in a wheeled toolbox. Ridiculous I know, and I could probably cull some heavy stuff, but I hate not having the right tool when I find the JY score. This has forced me to create a JY policy for when, Mr. Phillips Screwdriver, inevitably asks to borrow a tool...I require three of their tools, that I find acceptable, as collateral . Just today I guy asked me for a tool, he was a little indignant that a complete stranger would require three tools in exchange for one and needed further explaination as to my policy. He did return with three tools however.

Dual Range Transmission

Thanks guys Yeah I think that is what I am going to do. I basically have a complete set of records for this car down to the original window sticker, and I have found no evidence that the heads or gaskets have ever been changed, so it stands to reason that some fresh heads would do a lot of good all around. As naru points out, the guides have to be worn as well. I hate to break down major components of a very functional and dependable engine, but if I do it right :-\ it will be so much the better for it.

I have 273k on my '81 hatch. It drives great. I have got great compression. My oil stays clean and clear for a long time after an oil change. I have no real reason to do much to my engine, except my valve seals are starting to leak at a level that I am finding unacceptable. They used to just leak a little bit, and give off a brief oil burn-off in the morning start-up and be good the rest of the day. Now however, they are producing a more substantial cloud of burnt oil exhaust on start-up, not only in the morning, but also later in the afternoon after the car has sat all day. It's not James Bond smokescreen exhaust, but I find it embarassing and increasingly unacceptable. So I have been debating about redo-ing some extra heads I have and going through with the swap, but the only reason I have for doing so is the valve seals. The other factor in this is that I plan on EJ-ing the hatch, but I have to finish my Justy project first. At the rate I am going that won't be until summer. So do I bother with the head swap if I am going to yank the engine within 9 months? If I weren't going to EJ, I would just do the heads and be done with it, but right now I have several things that I could really use that time and money on. Can I replace the seals without removing the heads, and if so do I need to pull the engine to get clearance/access? For that matter, is it just the seals that are the problem or the guides too? I am usually not a proponent of chemical fixes for mechanical wear issues, but if I can't replace the seals without swapping the heads I would consider it for a short term fix. Thanks

Qualitatively speaking...yes there is a significant reduction in body roll. I love my gas-a-justs ('81 hatch). They made a huge improvement in driveability for me, but not everyone likes the stiffer ride. I do a lot of driving on curvy back-country roads and I like to carry my speed through the turns, so they are great for that. I have new GR2s in the front and all new bushings in the front suspension, but they are just the stock rubber not poly. My wife has gas-a-justs on her '84 wagon as well and really likes them.

The idle circuit is just the system of passages and brass metering bits within the carb that supply fuel and air at idle, which sounds straightforward, it's the identifying them on the carb part that is difficult. Unfortunately, I think the ea82 is sufficiently different than the ea81 that I can't point you to the correct place on your carb. I do think the part in your picture must be the ADV. Since no one else has chimed in about ea82 carbs, I suggest you get a manual (even the Haynes has a decent enough carb section) and use it to either identify the idle parts and pull the choke body off the carb to get to them, or, use the manual to do a rebuild. The rebuild is easier than it sounds, just be systematic. In either case, before you blast compressed air or solvent down the passage I suggest screwing the idle mixture screw in until it stops and count the number of turns so you know where to set it back to later (very important). After you know the number of turns, completely unscrew the idle mixture screw and remove it. Then blast away, and follow-up by blasting through the idle mixture screw hole before you screw it back in. Also, the ADV needs to be removed and either a finger placed over the hole, rubber stopper, etc,... or the solenoid "plunger" removed from the solenoid housing and the housing reinstalled during the blasting. Just make sure the inards of the solenoid are put back together correctly. Sorry if this doesn't help much. Owning a carbed vehicle in this day and age inevitably means you have to be able to work on it at least a little bit, because most mechanics don't know a thing about carbs and do not want to touch them. So if you are going to keep the car the way it is, ya might as well dig in. If this seems like a bit much and cash is tight, you might try to swing a used Weber off of the For Sale section.

The anti-dieseling valve is just a possibility, not necessarily a probability. Have you pulled off the choke body from the carb and blown out the idle circuit with compressed air? It is not uncommon to have to use mechanical and chemical methods to get these carbs cleaned up. I am unfamiliar with the part of the carb in your picture. It must be an ea82 thing. I wouldn't worry too much about the ADV until you have made all efforts to clean the idle circuit.

Which GM Alt do you have, the large case or narrow case? Most of the ones at the auto parts stores are the narrow case..see link. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99921&highlight=narrow+case

You can also get to the rest of the idle circuit by taking the choke body off. I presume you have a manual of some sort that shows some fuel circuit profiles. I had to use compressed air recently to unplug mine. Also make sure the anti-dieseling solenoid is working properly.

You will need a multi-meter to identify the breaks in the wire elements.

It is certainly possible, but I would think that a clogged idle circuit is more likely. The anti-dieseling solenoid is a pretty durable part, but it does need power so it has two things to check on it 1) Does it get power 2) Does it function when powered. This is true for the EA81 carbs, and I assume it is the same on an '86 EA82. It's a 19 mm hex that is about an inch and a half long or so(the author of HTKYSA must have very small thumbs), and it does stick out of the front of the drivers side of the carb diagonally toward the drivers side headlight...on an EA81. With the car off and the key in the run position you may be able to hear the solenoid click when you connect and disconnect power. It will only click once per connect or disconnect. If I have time in the next couple days I might be able to post some pics and description of how I diagnose the ADV. It's a very simple part, and once you locate it, it's an easy check.

If it dies at idle and you haven't turned any screws yet, then it means you shouldn't turn any screws. It probably means you need to clean some gunk out of your idle circuit, check your anti-dieseling solenoid, or eliminate vacuum leak(s) to begin with. If you turn screws and you are not familiar with tuning carbs or I should say, Hitachi carbs, then it will only make it harder to tell if you have eliminated the likely culprits later. I just went through this myself. The paper element in my fuel filter detached from the filter body and my idle circuit plugged. It would run fine on the secondary, but would not idle at all. I rebuilt the carb, and ended up taking it apart two more times for cleaning with solvent to no avail. I had been planning to buy an air compressor soon, so I used this as an excuse to go for it. The magic blow-gun, when liberally applied to the idle circuit, finally got it cleared and the machine runs like a champ again. Just make sure if you pull the choke body and use air on the passages, that you remove the little plastic ball in the accelerator pump sump and the injector weight because they will go flying if you hit them right with the air.

Typo? Do you mean EA82/Justy are compatible?

+3 on the kit. Just get the one with the little vial of copper solution or you can solder them too. Get a piece of aluminum foil and attach it to one of your meter leads. Attach the other lead to the main junction point where current comes into the defogger at the base of the window. With the car running and the rear defogger on, set the meter to 20VDC and slide the foil lead along each wire. You should normally see a uniform voltage drop across the wire, but the voltage will drop to zero or close to zero at the breaks in the line. I did this during the cold wet season, so I used a hair dryer to warm and dry each spot before applying the copper stuff. And clean it really good with alcohol. There may be mulitple breaks in each line, but I think you have to wait until the stuff dries before you can test that, maybe not, I can't remember for sure. The kit comes with a stencil for one repair, but I just used tape to mask each one and did multiple repairs at one time. Also, I used a dry-erase pen to circle the break points because it is easy to lose your spot when you go from meter to masking. Good luck, it's tedious, but it's definitely nice having the rear defogger in Washington and Oregon during the winter.

The only place I have pellets on my car is in the vac lines that go to the choke pull-off dashpot(s). However, I work on ea81s and I have removed all the emmissions apparati since they were not working anyway. If there were pellets in the emissions vac lines, I have forgotten by now. There may be pellets in different places in the ea81s and ea82s, but check the ones for your choke pull-off and it will give you an idea of what you are looking for.

I have done this swap on two ea81s and the "sense lead" or "field sensor" wire goes on the #2 spade on the narrow case 7157. I think the older version of the GM had the sensor on the #1. I don't know about ea82s, but the big wire might be your sense lead. http://www.teglerizer.com/alternator/wiring.htm As far as quality goes, it seems like if the ubiquitous chain-store reman alts make it through the first test drive, they last about as long as a standard mid-grade reman alt. I have really liked mine, but I also monitor my car constantly and trade in the old unit at the first sign of sub-standard performance. Swapping out for a new one at the store has always been hassle-free. If I didn't essentially have an unlimited supply of replacement alts, I would probably spring for a higher quality one somewhere. The nice thing about narrowing the alt. bracket to accept the GM is that you can easily put on the Nissan, stock alt, or others. I plan on pulling a Nissan alt from the yard (unless GD gets there first) and adapting it for a spare in case the GM decides to suddenly fail instead of the usual slow failure.

Which spade did you plug the field sensor wire into?

First, was your battery fully charged? You might also check your fusible links. The GM alts are not the greatest quality. I bought the lifetime warranty one for an extra $10 and I change it out probably once a year. I have also received one that was bad out of the box. That could be what you have got. If you bought it at a store, go back and have them check it.

Check carefully, the '89 looks very similar, but has some differences. I can't elaborate since I have neither an '89 carb at the moment nor an '89 FSM It's not, and BTW your carb is obviously not "new". Where did you buy it? You should check to make sure it is not in worse shape than the one on the car. It is easy to make a carb look new. Do you have a multimeter? I recommend checking the duty solenoid (DS) of the "old" carb while it is still on the car. The diagnostic in the FSM is almost entirely for a DS that is installed. I can post a photo of the diagnostic flow chart if you are able to use it. I also recommend using Gasgacinch on the base gaskets to seal it really good, especially since the carb is such a PITA to remove and install. Check to see if the factory installed aluminum plug was drilled out to allow access to the idle mixture screw. Hell yeah, I was a wildlife treeclimber for many years in college and spent many a glorious afternoon in the canopies of California Redwoods. I have been around the world, and NorCal and Southern Oregon are easily one of the most amazing regions in the world. Y'know, whenever I went to Northern Cali I saw these little stickers on cars. They were of a golden five or seven -lobed serrate leaf inside a gold circle on a black background. What was that all about?

Northern California It is my understanding that only the 1.2L was sold in the U.S. So chefgeoff, are you planning on swapping out an '88 carb? Depending on what your answer is, there may be more advice to follow.

All '88 Justys came with two barrels (Hitachi DFC328), so if you have a one barrel, it's not original. Are you replacing it with another Hitachi from/for an '88? If it's used you will want to rebuild it before installation. Other than that the manifold nuts are a pain in the butt to get off, you might have to cut down a wrench handle.

Thanks guys. I have seriously considered just leaving the engine in and seeing how far it will go, but at the same time it wouldn't be that hard for me to do the swap. Pulling the engine would allow me to really clean the engine bay, and I could install the engine and tranny as a unit. Plus, I have actually got two ea81s just sitting here with less than 200k on them. I haven't had the car very long and have only driven it about 40 miles, so it is also kind of hard to tell how it would do with emissions. Anyway, I have a hard time restraining myself from completely rebuilding things like this (hence my eternal Justy project), so it's good to hear what is important. GDs list is perfect and finite, I can do those things then step away, and most likely have some more reliable transpo until its EJ time...which is definitely going to happen, I just have personal rules about how many major projects I can have going at one time:lol:. Perhaps you can relate. Thanks again.

Picked up another '84 wagon a few weeks ago with almost 390k on the odometer and a shot transmission. The engine runs great actually, but I have an extra ea81 with 160k-190k that apparently just needs new HGs that I was thinking about swapping in for the time being (EJ in the future). My question is...what else, if anything, should I do while I have the heads off? I do not have a machinists square or other precision tools to measure for warpage. Can I use a piece of glass and a feeler gauge? I have a 5 spd and Jerry's kit to replace the trans. BTW

If someone knows more about the Hitachi carb than you do, they aren't sharing that expertise. So unless someone else shows an equal generousity with their time and knowledge I think you can safely say you are an/the expert.