Greenley

in closure, it was just the clutch disc which was worn down to the rivets.

Its made a slight 2 second chattering sound upon ignition for the past year- Probably a loose spring on the disc and it finally gave up the ghost? I think youre right though, saw bits of disc once i pulled the starter out and inspected it. An exedy kit is in the mail, I'll report back when i get it seperated.

any update to the resolution of this??

All the axles feel as they should. no play outside of normal tolerances, boots intact and a solid connection to the diff stubs and hubs

Im certain its going into gears- with the car in the air, the wheels *very* slowly move forward in 1st and backwards in Reverse. The car rolls IN gear with the e-brake off.

99 Legacy Brighton PhaseII EJ22 5 MT AWD I need some help diagnosing an issue that is perplexing- Subie starts fine- when i depress the clutch pedal (it feels normal) put it into gear, nothing happens. Nothing at all. I am able to shift through all gears with no sign of engagement. I have burnt a clutch out on an older GL, and was able to use the starter to move the car- Which leads me to believe that it may be something else wrong here- Any suggestions on what i can do to diagnose the issue and get this daily driver back on the road?

i'd guess that its the cable itself. either get a new one, or lube the cable you currently have.

I'm close to Reno, lets hook up.

^^ i got to check out littlejack97's BRAT yesterday. he's got some great mods in mind, and a clean chassis to work with here's my current DD:

No ECU in this car, it's running a Weber 32/36, although good point if it was FI The distributor shaft indeed turns while cranking. The coil leads could be potentially hooked up wrong, as its easy enough to fudge. BW from body = 12v IG. = POS BW from Disty = POS Noise Condenser= POS Yellow from disty = NEG Yellow from body = Tach signal wire = NEG Correct?

I'm not able to verify voltage that at this moment as the Brat is 20 miles away. I was under the impression that the pickup coil is integral to the ignition module. This is a Hitachi disty, just to be clear.

So I went and looked at mossgreens brat, sure I could sort it out having had this issue before. We installed a new (JY) ignition module, New coil, replaced all fusible links, verified grounds (coil bracket, etc.) Still no spark. What's a simple method of assuring the module is no good, as I'm finding it hard to believe we can't get a spark. Thanks, Pete

The mesh/screen im speaking of must only be in California specific cats, as i've seen this screen in the two that i've gutted. It added a definite element of "fun" to the process. Stock system, mayyyyybe. But what fun is a stock exhaust system when you live in the sticks? My butt-dyno and ears beg to argue this one.

This is false. The audible difference is incredible! Of course it all depends on what you've got downstream. And naturally, an unrestricted flow will always enhance performance, whether intake or exhaust. Listening to this advice is a sure fire way to clog your exhaust. What about the mesh screen that surrounds the honeycomb? I tried this, and ended up having to cut the pipe directly behind the cat, and pull said screen apart with pliers in order to get all the chunks out. They dont just dump out... +1

Seeing is believing. It is legitimate. No photoshop, no bullswag.