SuperchargedRS

A are we talking a part time tranny? That would hold up better (dependent of tires) then the OEM WRX tranny, on the street your in 2wd (not that much power required to break traction), off road your in 4wd and on loose dirt / snow, not much required to break traction there ether. Shy of rock climbing / running HUGE tires wouldn't a 2wd tranny hold up better to spirited driving!? Also I have a XT6 clutch in my push button 5spd EJ22 loyale and I've had no problem thus far (stock tires though lol)

Thanks Scott, how exactly does it install, is this something I needed from the donor car?

Is this dog bone something I should install, or is it OK w/o one?

What are the two top holes that stick up on the SJR EJ-EA adapter for?

You can drill and tap a mount for the loyal temp sensor on the cross pipe of the EJ

Got the car back from Adam @ NW Rally, really happy with it, all stock gauges working.

I never said you should (or I would), just wondering if anyone did/does. I used to safety wire my K&N oil filters on my bike just because I had the wire and pliers and and hole in the filter for it. So sensitive lol

its not how likely a bolt will fail, but the repercussions of said failure

It's not a stress problem, it's a risk of failure issue (i.e. the safety wire on a oil drain bolt).

I was looking at some of the posts here (like the one about the PS pulley coming off!) anyone here safety wire up anything on their car? al la

I am talking about the cities, and things are not always what they are supposed to be, ya know! I have vehicles registered all over the place (and for different reasons), sometimes it works out in my favor not having to deal with emissions (though I am sure that the readings from my tailpipes are more then OK). I have been asked why xx vehicle is registered in xx and I just say that is where the vehicle is based and it's used for business, end of story.

If you plan on painting it in the field, use a paint intended to paint a vehicle in the field. Look into CARC, it is epoxy based and wont chip shy of you totaling your car lol (you can find a field painting manual online) look at steelsoldiers.com

What you need is a heat exchanger. IF you could get a inter cooler with a extra set of rows to flow the freon along side the rows for the intake air, that might be a idea. BUT you now have the draw of turning the compressor to yield that cooling effect. Time + Money to make this work > Gain if it works Just mount your IC where it will have some ram air on it.

I guess I will leave it as they (2 cat style EJ swap) are fine. It just seems like a good idea to remove unnecessary items. FYI to gut a cat you just bust all the ceramic honeycomb out with a bar. same procedure works for these ones too lol

The bitterness of poor quality lasts longer than the sweetness of low price.

Are you guys running catalytic converters on your EJ22 swapped cars? I was thinking of gutting them to simplify the system. Will I loose much of my lowend doing this? CEL? Gain much in the top end? Thanks

You know your trying to get a kitten to roar here?

Or you can just not deal with CA emissions period. A state is like a business, if they dont give you a good deal take your money else where. Also if you had a stock looking loyale that just had a different carb, I'm sure you could find some village idiot to smog it, people in CA dont view a GL as a racer and it will not be under the microscope like a civic. Heck just get the engine really dirty and they probably just do a visual.

Wasn't it a 275ohm resistor?

Did you try yelling "The Power of Christ compels you!" at the car?

I used some of that oxyclean upholstery cleaner (comes out a white foam), to be sure I didnt wreak havoc on any plastic, then wiped the excess off and hit it with some dust off (computer caned air). I had some one sided teflon tape leftover from a 1911 safety, I put it on the sides of the button well, overkill, but it doesn't rattle anymore.

Saw this thing on youtube, Anyone know the lift, wheels/tires he is running on this thing?

Yea, that click noise should be in each socket. It sounds like one of the Bi-Xeon mechanisms isn't working. I doubt this is something you can fix as it is in the actual socket unit. You should also have new shields for the HIDs that have the cutout. If your sending them back anyway you might want to make sure you get the temperature (color) you want, the whiter (lower temp, aka less blue) the more light output.

Toyos or BFG TAs Bang for the buck get some Toyos from Les Swab, good tire, good price and they stand behind their tires (road side, good warranty service, free tire rotation). Too bad they dont have that free beef with a tire purchase anymore.

It's been awhile, but when I put HIDs on a truck of mine I used Bi-Xeons. The high/low was accomplished by tilting the bulb to change the amount of light exposed to the gap in the glare shield (the metal thing around the bulb). I think it was just a magnetic operation used to tilt it. Check the contacts and listen for the click at the bulb socket when engaging the highs.