Caboobaroo

well for starters, the rigdity of it with spacers will suck big time. You'll be more prone to snap motor mounts and bend the pitch stopper, Second, turbo's SUCK for offroad sicne they have no low end torque like NA engines do. Also, swap the crossmember, its really not the difficult and will save you headaches down the road. Trust me, half @$$ing ************ will lead to more trouble and more money then its worth.... just my $.02

yup and he actually relisted it as well. He thanked me for the help BTW:D

sounds like thats what it is. If it starts better when its warm, then you need to hook your AAV back up. I'm having the same issue in my '89 RX because I also intercooled it and have yet to plumb it back into the intake.

yeah it was a gen 1 Brat, with the EA81 and the dual range

Thats kidna what I was thinking but since my Brat never had them since I've owned it, I wasn't for sure. I gave the gentleman the website to our lovely board so hopefully he'll be joining us.

I haven't heard of very many EA82Ts getting a cracked turbo, just lots and lots of heads. I'm still betting since you said there's more with the higher RPMs that it is an intake gasket. If you think about it, the higher the RPM, the higher the RPM of the waterpump... that would be the easiest to fix out of all of them... well maybe not the turbo but those can be pretty tricky.

I'm guessing its not very big, maybe 2" by 3" at most since it appears he used a scanner to get a pic of it.

Hopefully mine will be more leagal to ru on the street this summer and I'll bring it on down... It's ALL stock... well stock from other cars;)

might wanna get your facts straight the buddy. The early EA81T's had oil cooled turbos only. Then the next year for the EA81T had a oil AND water cooled turbo, and the previous year had a recall for it. ALL EA82Ts have a water cooled and oil cooled turbo in them... My guess would be a bad intake gasket. Where did you get them from? You NEED to get a set from Subaru cause all the others are crapola... trust me on this one. This is one gasket I will usually get from the dealer for all of my Subarus unless I need one that day or can get it quicker from a parts house instead of the dealer.

There was a gentleman on ebay a couple weeks ago that was selling his '81 GL Brat. He had mentioned it was eating oil like no tomorrow. I sent him a message about it being a bad PCV valve, he fixed it and decided he wanted to keep it. So him and I have been sending messages back and forth via email and he asked me a question about this interior piece. He said he replaced his carpet and put his interior back in and this piece was left over... http://community.webshots.com/photo/332702224/2547326420067339125rEgJIl It looks familiar but I cannot place it, even with the help of my trusty FSM...

and of course, to set the disty timing like I usually do... pull the disty pull the #1 sparkplug until its almost all the way out turn the crank over, listening for the compression hissing from the #1 cylinder if you don't see any timing marks when the hissing stops, keep going until the hissing starts again, then look for the timing marks, set to 20* BTDC line up the disty so when you drop it in, the rotor is facing the #1 plug wire put the disty cap on, put the plug wires on, tighten the #1 sparkplug and see if she starts up.

well I got it after some finessing with a couple screwdrivers, a half hour and a BFH. I did however break that piece that goes into the pump with is also like a spacer between the pump and the block. Lucky for me, I got like EA81s comin outta my butt!

so you're finally tryin to get that pile back on the road eh? About friggin time:D

leaf springs?????

yup, its just a little tab sticking off of the side of the solenoid.

well what I did was I figured out which wire was hot in the "start" position so the key has to be turned to start in order for the button to get power. Once the button gets power (running it form a battery works too), you'll need to run a wire from the button to the back of the starter where the small wire that goes from the ignition attaches to. It'll be on the side of the starter solenoid near the back of the starter.

yup, bearings go bu bye, then axle bids farewll and the wheel takes a trip!

saweet... I think I can do that:D

well if its a loose castle nut, you'll se the rotor/hub move with the wheel but the axle stub will stay stationary and you'll see the conical washer behind the castle nut move a bit with the play from it. Bad bearings will have the axle move with the hub but the knuckle where the bearings are housed will stay still. Bad balljoint will have lots of play where it goes into the lower control arm from the bottom of the knuckle

so then if I run the valvecovers to breathers and the crankcase to the PCV valve, I should be fine?

YES! That's the problem I'm having trying to figure out how to make a white faced gauge for my '78 Brat... and for my RX as well:grin:

So in my continuation on the RX, I need to deal with the PCV area of it. My question is... can I put breathers on the crankcase, and the valvecovers and then put a plug in where the valve goes in the intake? If I do need to keep it hooked up, then what should I do? A reminder for people joining us... '89 RX with a EA82T, WRX TD04, WRX top mount intercooler and a spyder intake from a '88 XT

maybe the wheel bearings are going out... just a thought

Umm... you kinda need the yoke which slips into the tranny or else, ALL of the gear oil will come out while you're driving. You should look for another driveline ASAP if you want to keep driving it.

you might want to try the search function since a few of us have done the conversion. Also, I have a write-up in the USRM about it as well, like what parts are needed etc. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50400