Caboobaroo

Only one oring between the pump and block. The plugs on the bottom of the pump are for testing pressures. Also replace the crank seal while you're there. While in the front end, I also would reseal the two wrist pin access plugs. Those are a 14mm Allen, above the water pump and behind the right upper idler. Just a bit of ultra black and clean the aluminum crush washers when you reinstall them.

MegaSquirt2 v3.0, MAP based, knock sensor, PNW idle control valve, and an Innovative LM1 wide band 02 sensor setup. Since I'm running the EDIS6, I also needed to mount a crank trigger wheel and crank sensor. Check out www.MSEFI.com

No that's no super common but it is indeed a leaking head gasket. The high pressure oil passage from the block to the head is located in the top of the block which is where the oil is coming from.

A few people have done it. Best thing to do is research it. Check out www.diyautotune.Com they have a small write up from WJM's old RX on there. I'm actually almost finished with a MS2 v 3.0 system with a Ford EDIS6 ignition system for my ER27. I chose to buy it and assemble it myself so a new soldering station was in order. Still waiting for a family member to make me an aluminum crank pulley to mount my trigger wheel to. I also plan to eventually use the stock distributor as a cam position signal for coil on plug operation.

I usually have the heads resurfaced since my local machine shop also cleans them up for me. If they're flat, I use 220 grit followed by 400 on a sanding block on both the heads and block surface. Make sure you lube the head bolts for a more accurate torque and the torque procedure is different for 2005 and newer 2.5s

It's possible that the end of the crank was boogered just a but but that shouldn't effect anything. The woodruff key should be at the 6:00 position and both cam indents should be at 12:00 for timing to be on.

I've had a sticking EGR valve cause misfires on this model. Only other thing I can think of could be misadjusted valves.

I've actually dealt with this before. Had a 2003 WRX come in that had been severely overheated and parked for a year due to a cracked radiator. Put coolant in it and couldn't get it to fire up. With the coolant fill bucket on the intake resevoir, when it would crank, there was a geyser shooring from the bucket. Ended up having a warped head and an internally breeched head gasket, and I think it was two cylinders too.

Because the airbag computer is a flash code system.

It's to help with extra engine vibrations under boost. I ran a nonturbo crank pulley on an EA82T but not for very long. The ringlands don't like 14psi from a TD04 turbo....

It's for the monitoring system for the EGR valve. There's a couple different sensors mounted to the passenger strut tower that the vacuum line runs to.

What key fob do you have? If it's the teardrop style, open the driver door and hold the trunk release button. It will reactivate the parking lights and chirp. My wife seems to turn it off every now and again on our 04 sedan. If it's the kidney bean style remote, check out this site. http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html

I don't think they recommend it with the blue coolant they started using in 2009.

2005 WRX had the snap in axles too.

This is common in the second Gen Foresters. I will do a drain and fill service with new filter and clear the transmission computer memory. It helps for awhile but will eventually come back.

I will probably be there. I will already be in Seattle Friday night for the Guns N Roses concert at Century Link. Trying to figure out how to bring 2 cars, probably the XT6 and the Outback once again. Mykey,I might need to stash one at your place Friday and grab it Saturday morning.

That is also an issue when doing an engine swap. The cam and crank sprockets need to match the intake and ECU you're running. These will also cause a fuel and spark issue. I was under the impression it was a running swap, not a swap that hasn't started. Just an FYI, the head gaskets for the JDM EJ20 aren't available that I have found from any supplier in the US.

I've been wanting to take my XT6 to JCCS for the last few years but life tends to get in the way. Looks like a lot of fun!

No MAF, these are a MAP based engine this year unless it's a Cal Spec car (3 cats, 5 oxygen sensors and a three piece intake). You need three things to run, spark, fuel and compression. These are notorious for the fuel pump to crap out which is why I mentioned the fuel pump. Even spark on two cylinders, it'll still run.

Technically, they are not serviceable. They are staked in u-joints, however, there was a video floating around on how to replace them. I have yet to find a driveline shop that will replace them for me so it's on my list of things to do.

Have you checked fuel pressure at the engine? These are common to have fuel pump fail or the metal cap on the fuel pump module has broken.

Can you see vehicle speed with a scanner while plugged into the OBD port? If ECU is seeing vehicle speed, it's more then likely an issue with the head. If the ECU isn't seeing vehicle speed, it's probably the vehicle speed sensor in the transmission. Granted it's a 98, I have seen a few speedo head failures but not as common as the 99, which I need to fix in mine....

Welcome! I'm a flat engine guy myself with my huge collection of Subarus and my 1978 BMW R80/7. Having worked for ALL Wheel Drive Auto in the past, they use the best parts and I love that they sell complete kits online. You don't have to replace the head bolts though, just grease the threads and washers up and reuse them.

I would think a strut mount or maybe the transverse bushing on the back of the control arm has blown out.

The master cylinder is strictly an upgrade for cars with calipers that are larger then stock. Going from a single piston caliper and drum brakes to twin piston front calipers and single piston rear calipers, you need the larger master cylinder to push the proper amount of fluid. If you dont, you have a very low pedal before the brakes engage. This can also take out the seal in the original master cylinder as its now pushing the seal past the wear points it has created over time. My XT6 has a stock 15/16" master cylinder bore but my pedal is a bit lower now with 2005 WRX brakes front and rear compared to the stock calipers. I bought the SVX master cylinder in preperation for STI Brembos calipers when I get around to it.