Caboobaroo

Your ringlands will blow apart. I did a SPFI EA82 block with gen 2 turbo heads, TD04, spider intake, larger injectors, rising rate fuel pressure regulator, exhaust, cams, cold air intake. At 12psi, that engine lasted about 500 miles....

I'm running an older Innovative LM1 wideband that I picked up for very cheap from a board member on the Legacy GT forum. I have it connected up to the stock ECU currently but will be connected to my MegaSquirt when I finally install it.

Galen is right, it's an early 87, before the US received the RX designation.

Nevermind, I seen you replaced the cable already. I have had issues with aftermarket cables failing rather quickly too.

I was at the Pick n Pull on Foster and 111th in Portland today and they had an EA82T GL wagon. Good luck!

Good call on the pedal box, Paul. I knew there was something having to do with it breaking. Luckily my new 78 is still working but I will eventually get it out and reinforced.

Search for a board member named Dyne over on the 2.5RS board. Lots of good info on the wiring but like I said, unless you build a fun box to mimic the transmission to keep the TCU happy and not pop a CEL, you will always have a constant code(s) for the transmission.

I would steer clear from the Fel Pro MLS gaskets. Metal is way too thin, coating is crap and comes off in about 20k miles. If to want to do it once, get Six Star or OEM Subaru turbo head gaskets.

With all the rain and wind we've been getting the last couple weeks, I haven't had a chance to play with her. I did get the sunroof resealed so it doesn't leak anymore. If the weather let's up this weekend, I will try and get a few pictures taken.

The electrical is more complex to run a manual and keep the CELL off with the EZ30. I'm still trying to figure it out as I live in a place where I have DEQ and need to keep the ECU and TCU happy.

Yeah. Was telling me his memories of that car lol.

Oh he does miss it, especially after showing him my 78.

Probably be the easiest way to do it. If you've done it before, it should go a lot quicker. I would also try and save the coolant if it's still new using a clean drain pan and a bucket.

I have drilled and tapped the EGR hole on these newer heads. Not terribly difficult but the tap was pretty spendy.

More pics will come with time. I finally drove her to work today so I can finish tuning the carb up and reset the ignition timing. Lots of little things to do including sealing up the aftermarket sunroof and reinstalling the center portion of the dash and heater controls.

Hey Todd, I'm in need of a blue ashtray in good working order. Mine is broken and flops around making it rattle. Might also need some other tidbits for my newly aquired 78 wagon.

Well I've been busy recently. The tags expired at the end of the month and in order to keep her vanity plates, I had to get the car running, back up to our house an hour and a half away, through DEQ and titled. Had only a few weekends during October to get that all done.... But I did it. Fired her up, timed it by ear and drove her home on my birthday! First attempt through DEQ she failed but it gave me the numbers I needed to tune the carb. Only took me 15 minutes in the parking lot next door and took her back through. She passed! After driving the car though, you do notice stuff that doesn't work or maybe when it wants to. Comes with owning any used car for that matter. However, working heat is a start, which hers does not. The aftermarket sunroof which has been sealed shut, is leaking, into the lap of the driver. Being cold on your long drive is one thing, but to have a surprising shower to your gentlemen's bits at the same time is a bit frustrating. She has a tire starting to separate on the right front causing a vibration. TONS of road noise, I forgot how not insulated they were! Now time to start fitting in repair between the other cars I currently have.

Well... it was before I joined but I can say I know almost all of those people.

Hopefully you have deep pockets as this is not a cheap endevor. The Perrin built 3.0 turbo STI was a nightmare to tune and they never could get it tuned right. Had major issues with it before the owner gave up. It has good info to read but that's about it. Your best bet would be the Raptor supercharger as it was specifically designed for the second generation 3.0 I've also had a couple second Gen 3.0s come in with cracks in the #3 combustion chamber that allows coolant to seep into the cylinder and cause a misfire.

I would like to add, sedan struts are different then wagon struts. Putting sedan struts on a wagon creates positive camber in the rear and doesn't allow the front camber to be set where it should be. It also throws off steering axis inclination and included angle. So make sure you're getting struts that are appropriate for tour vehicle.

I'm out in Oregon City and work in downtown at Superior Import Repair. All we do are Subarus ;-) Welcome!

I tend to see the fork crack right at the pivot point, usually between 150-200k. Granted I get the 200k+ cars with a broken fork too but as often as I see them break on cars under 200k, you tend to replace them. If you can do a clutch quickly yourself, no need to replace it if it's not broken. A customer, it'll cost an extra $40 to do it when the clutch is being done or $600 to do it later when it fails. They fail quicker when it's not lubed properly from a previous clutch replacement if it was lubed at all.

You have tweaked the suction inlet on the power steering pump, most likely from the belt shroud putting tension on it. Suck the fluid out of the resevoir, fill with new, replace the o-ring on the inlet and reinstall the belt shroud.

Looks like the pulley has separated where the rubber is located. Get a new pulley and timing cover, check for any other damage to any of the timing components and reassemble. Make sure the crank pulley bolt is also torqued down tight as they can come loose and cause damage to the woodruff key and keyway.

Head gasket or wrist pin access plug behind the timing cover could be leaking.