Caboobaroo

Unless you have an R12 evac setup to use, the only other way is to go to a shop but usually, if you have them evac it, they'll give you money for it. I'd do that, convert it, and then go back and have the same shop recharge it with some R134a.

Nope unless in 20 years they end up rusting out... I've been all over this car, nothing is original anymore except for fuel system and brake system and both are fully functioning as they should with no issues :-p

If its not too much, I'd be down for a little get together at Rob's house:-p

I've never had any issues with Seafoam and older Subarus. I've used two cans on one car, one can through the carb on my old '78 Bronco and on other cars. Put some through the intake like through a vac lin so it hits the intake, put some into the gas to help it continue and then put some into the oil but let it run for 20 minutes, shut it off and then change it. When I did it to my Bronco, I revved it and poured it through the carb and got a huuuuge cloud of nasty smoke through the exhaust and after that, it ran much smoother and had a little more umph.

I don't seem to have this problem:-p Yes, there is no break in the hardline going from front to back. It sucks but thats the way Subaru did it.

Ace Salvage in Laramie should still have that maroon EA82 3-door:-p Glad to see you made it but I no longer live there:grin:

The one from my 4EAT RX was almost 12" shorter then the 5-speed.

Didn't Honda have a commercial recently where they compared the new Fit to a mullet? It was like "All business up front, party in the back" or something like that.. You have to have a mullet to drive a Honda Fit!

I'm actually east of Seattle myself. Better then being down there in the mist of everything all the time.

Its an IROC but yes, its a base line IROC, probably 305TPI with a BW 5-speed. Gonna shoot for the gutless 305 instead of the 195hp 305 that was an option.

Well I couldn't quite afford them after my last paycheck so THIS paycheck is when I'm paying for them;)

The engine he got from you Emily is in his black RX, not his red XT;)

Hmm 305 TPI with the 700R4:-\ Dteails man, its all about the details! Rear end ratio? LSD or full posi? Since its an IROC I think its a full posi though... Options? Other information is a plus!

:lol: Go figure, its 6:10 here as I post this...

Roxanna doesn't work since Roxanne on the board is owned by Snowman in Alaska. She's a red EA82 wagon with lots-o-stuff done:-p

+1 to me:-p

Any EA82 vehicle (wagon, sedan, 3-door which includes the RX)

I would spend the few minutes it takes to disconnect the 4 bolts on the driveshaft. I did that, then wired the driveshaft up out of the way with a metal hanger and it was fine for my 1200 mile trip.

Whats with the split? Got other plans or something?

I found the copper crush washers for brakes on the calipers will wor if you get the smaller ones. I got a pack of like 8 of them from the parts store for a few bucks.

So I've had this faint sound coming from the rear of my car, somewhere. I haven't been worried about it until more recently since I tend to drive my car almost everyday. It started after I moved out here and its coming from the rear but I can't pinpoint if its a wheel bearing or the LSD, which would suck! I had a LOF done before I moved out here and they checked the fluid in the rear diff according to the paperwork. I'm hoping they didn't top it up with regular 80w90 but even if they did, this would cause the bearings to fail in the diff would it? I'm thinking its more of a wheel bearing. It does it when I'm cruising at a steady speed and it is definatly speed related as it has one spot where it grinds/squeaks. So the faster I go, the fast it becomes. If I get on the gas or on the brakes, it goes away. I'm pretty sure its not my brakes but I should pull off the wheel to take a look at whats going on. It didn't do this before I moved but it was on a tow dolly for about 1200 miles so... And yes, I had the driveshaft disconnected when I dollied it:-p

Yup was thinking about seein if one of them could go pick them up and hold onto them for me. Lemme know when you head over there next Tex and I can let you know if one of them has them for me or not...

Welcome! I have replaced may axles on many Subarus and can do it in a short amount of time, however, I'm now in an apartment and they don't really like it when you work on your car. If we can get together at someone's house (there's a lot of members in the area), then I can help you swap it out and supply the needed tools to do it. If you want to keep driving on it for a couple more months, here's some things to remember. First, if it clicks when you make a hard turn, like turning around, then you should be fine for a couple months as long as you be careful when turning around (no stomping on the gas while cranked hard one way). Second, if it does blow on you, no fear, you're in a Subaru! Take a punch the size of the pin that holds the axle onto the transmission and tap it out with a hammer. Then, click it in 4wd and voila, RWD Brat:headbang:

Swap it to manual windows and voila, windows are fixed:-p I might have a spare switch somewhere since its one of those "needle in a haystack" parts for coupes, like the tailights...

First off, when was the last time the fuel filters were changed? When was the last time it had a full tune-up (ie: plugs, wires, cap and rotor)? These are the basic things to take care of before deciding its the cat or this or that. If you decide to take the exhaust off and its the original, then guess what... broken bolts and lots of bloody knuckles if you don't have any air tools. Start off with the simple stuff...