Caboobaroo

well depending on which road you're taking through Washington, I'm just a few minutes from I-90 and I-405. Good luck with your trip and hopefully it will be a safe one:headbang:

My EA82 coupe has a stock EA82 SPFI y-pipe, stock EA82T midpipe and the axle back rusted out of the original muffler from my RX so I put a cheap ebay $30 melon shooter on it. Sounds throaty but its not too annoying:-p I spent $30 on the muffler (or something like that) and another $10 on piping from Schucks and welded it up. http://rides.webshots.com/video/3057704240067339125SSoyCq?vhost=rides

I have to agree, I missed the fact that you were replacing the clutch on it. Remove the engine instead of the tranny. Its 10x easier and less stressful, plus while the engine is out, is a good time to take care of any oil leaks like the oil pan, valve covers, front and rear main seals and such. If the clutch is all you're after, just unbolt the exhaust, unbolt the 2 engine mounts, unbolt the 4 bellhousing bolts, the pitch stopper, fuel lines, alternator wiring, disty wiring, main engine harness, a couple small vac lines, 2 hear core lines, remove the PS pump and 2 brackets for the lines, AC compressor, and there's a few other little things that need to come off. I found it takes more time to pull just the tranny then it does to pull, swap and reinstall the engine but I can do a complete engine swap in like 4 hours on an SPFI EA82. Also remove the radiator for more room.

Glad everything worked out for you. I figured that since you had the parts car, it would just be easier to swap the two pedal clusters instead of trying to modify the one that you had in the car to work with the clutch cable.

and if he needs it black, I got some of that:-p

Oops double post!

then swap out the pedal cluster. IIRC, 82+ years have a different clutch and a different clutch cable setup. Its easy to swap the pedal cluster. Just unbolt the column from under the dash (2 bolts and a few electrical connections) and one bolt where it connects to the steering box at the universals. Then it'll be 4 nuts that bolt the master cylinder to the pedal cluster and I think thats it on an EA81. I've replaced a few on EA82s but its been a long while since I did an EA81. Should only take about an hour at most to swap them and the hardest part will be getting the U-joint off of the shaft:rolleyes:

I'd give my coupe up for a turbo Leg.... Mmmmmm Looks awesome Rob! A lot better then the cell phone pics you posted on XT6:-p

Where the axle slides onto the tranny, there's a roll pin that goes through the axle and through the final drive stub. You need a punch of a Craftsman Torx screwdriver and a hammer to pound it out. There's actually a special tool that I've gotten from Mac Tools for 15 bucks. Its nice but before I got it, I used the Torx screwdriver and a mallet:-p

Does it work yet? I thought you'd be driving it today like you said hmmmm?:-p

I've seen a '85 GL sedan that is almost how you describe yours. It was kind of inbetween an RX and a GL-10 but on the back it said 4WD turbo and Subaru, no GL or GL-10.

If I had a welder and a place to do it, I could get it done for you. If you can find someone with a welder, that would be the cheapest way to go. Also, you might want to look into getting a couple new hoses while you have it apart. The coolant return hose that passes under the turbo and the oil return line that shoots from the bottom of the turbo into the head.

the stock one you have should work. The spyder cable is in fact, too short for anything but the XT which I found out when I put the intake on my RX:rolleyes:

I wanted to take my coupe there and be like "Uh, 90hp FTW!":lol:

nope, no way to trick it. Just get a new boot.

I have one of these already:-p neener neener neener:grin:

Just as Gary said, no prelube needed for it. There's enough in the lines already to take care of it but after you've ran it for a few minutes, driven it a bit, stop and check the ATF and top it off if needed.

An EJ22 will fit inbetween the frame rails of a gen 1 without any cutting. The EA82 just happens to be wider then an EJ22 so the frame rails need to be notched out to make it fit. First off, what are the plans for the vehicle? If you're planning on keeping it on the street, then just use an EA81 since its a bullet proof motor. If your '81 is a GL it should already have the EA81 but it'll be a top mounted starter and will also have a d/r 4-speed as well. If you're looking for more oomph on the freeway or for some offroading, then swap in an EJ22 with an EA82 d/r 5-speed gearbox. It'll fit but will take a bit of modification to do so. In this sort of game, its not really money which you should be concerned about, it'll be the time and patience to make it all work together.

So one of the main reasons why the head isn't wanting to come off very easily is because there's probably something built up on a couple of the studs, making it very hard to slide. Just keep hitting it and wiggling it, it'll come off eventually. As for the coolant, probably a bit got into the cylinder when you broke the headgasket seal. Just wipe it out and put a small amount of some 20w50 on the walls of the cylinders to prevent rust. It'll burn off once its started up and will also help keep the shortblock assembly from siezing to the cylinder walls. I had my shortblock on an EA82T sieze a little but it was just enough to not want to turn by hand. I had to put some MMO down into the cylinders and let it sit for a few days before it moved again.

A horse:-p

Its a very simple procedure to replace the belts and tensioners. However, the easiest way to do it, is to remove the radiator to allow more room in there. That's about it. Lack of room is whats going to make it semi difficult if you have larger hands:-p

The '81 GLs came with a Hitachi 2 barrel. The Carter-Weber came starting on the '82s unfortunatly. I had a '83 hatch with one and took me forever to get it running right.

Ugh sorry, I'm working graveyards right now but Friday, I have a job interview at Les Schwabby so hopefully no more Target:banana: So I'll see if the guy can get them to Andy before you come out since I'll have some money on Saturday for them. One of the joys of being broke is you gotta sell stuff to fund other stuff, yay:rolleyes:

I recently swapped my 3AT coupe to a RX manual. Like Miles said, you need to drill out 4 holes in the back and run like some 2" bolts through them for the mounts for the mustache bar (I have some pics) and you need to make mounts for the carrier bearing but with some metal (like an old metal bed frame) a hack saw, a drill and some bolts, you can make a decent mount since you're not going to have enough torque to kill them. I've driven mine for almost 2k miles and still, no problems with my brewed up carrier bearing mount. Its not a hard swap but is very time consuming especially if you've never done it before. Since I did a 4EAT to RX manual a couple years prior to this, it was cake since I knew what I had to do. If you need a hand, lemme know. I can help ya out with advice or maybe help out since I live in Washington too, even though I don't have the foggiest idea where you're at in this state.

Hours? I spent like 30 minutes doing the alignment in the back of my coupe and the driver side was waaaaaay out of spec. For the easiest way, I found to pull the lower bolt on the shock after pulling the wheel off, then loosening the 3 bolts that are on the trailing arm, then do my adjustments. If you have a 12" prybar, that will help you move the suspension anyway you want it to move to get it into spec.