Caboobaroo

Man oh man, I love walking out onto my porch and having a nice view of all the trees. Also all the trees I see going to work everyday and the nice green undergrowth:grin:

Aww sucky deal man! How much do you want for the grille? I'll pay shipping and everything, I think it would be a sweet upgrade to my car:headbang:

Well I'm looking to upgrade the rear to two piston rear calipers because I'm planning on going to 4 pistons up front, plus a bigger master cylinder. Yeah, maybe overkill but with my upcoming EJ20G swap in mind (which I want to put down some impressive numbers with), I want to have everything else capable of handling it. Also, I want to have the upgradable brake choices like I do with my suspension currently. That and I wanna be different:-p I have access to a CNC machine and metal lathes if I need them as well.

Yeah an old thread BUT a chance for me to add in my lowered coupe!

So what about adapting EJ rear calipers onto a set of XT6 backing plates? I'm working on aquiring some EJ parts to see what needs to be done. I'm going to get my hands on some calipers, backing plates, hubs and rotors. Once I can get those parts, then I can start mixing my potion to get the right formula. Anyone in the Seattle area with some parts they'd be willing to donate? Don't need to be in perfect shape but halfway useful would be nice;)

Well currently, no AIM which sucks! And my phone is currently off until I can get more minutes (prepaid ugh) so no phone either. When you plannin on headin up here?

So when are you gonna get me an early B-day present?:-p

The purpose of it IIRC is to reduce the amount of alternator noise coming through the stereo BUT I never had any issues with alternator noise through my stereo after I removed it.

Like a few folks have said, remove the 2 - 14mm engine mounts->crossmember nuts, put a 2x4 on the oilpan and slowly jack the engine up until it won't go any higher. You want to jack it almost to that spot, just enough to rotate the engine just a hair to the driver side (to elevate the passenger side cam tower) and slide it in carefully. If you're quick with removing an EA82T like I have become, I found its much easier to remove the engine, replace the crossover pipe and reinstall the turbo (will give you better access to all the hoses and such) and drop it back into the car.

If you want to get rid of the crappy stock clutch fan, an EA81 secondary AC fan will work, and its electric. I had the stock electric fan and the EA81 AC fan on my 2 row and it was much better then the clutch fan. Usually if the car has been serviced by a dealer or other mechanic, for ease of removal and installation of the clutch fan, they will cut the fan shroud until its just the top section.

If its not complete, then its not worth it. It should run from the negative on the coil to the body but, if the wire that goes to either the coil or the body from the cylinder is broken, its worthless. I've removed some before and never had issues.

Well I'm thinking if someone in the area is getting rid of an EA82 4wd car, then to cut the trailing arm off of it. Then take the EA rear axle, EJ rear axle, EJ wheel bearings, and EJ brakes and see what kind of modifications would need to be done to the EA trailing arm. It's probably possible to do this but I cannot have my car down while I test stuff out on it. I bet it can be done, just figuring out what parts are needed and what needs to be modified to get everything to work right. I think it can be done since the body of my car is an '87... The rest is from other years and models of Subarus...

Brian, bring em!! I'll take them if the price is right. If they have no tires, that would be even better since I put brand new tires on the steels before I left Wyoming. Also, bring that grille, I've been wanting to do that to mine but no time (even though I have 2 spares lol).

I'm in need of some pics of an exploded view of some EJ rear brakes (the drum assembly, rotor/hub and caliper. I'm going to try and modify a set of rear EJ disc brakes onto my EA82 car but I need to see what all is going to need to be "fitted":-p

Well since I have never had the back brakes torn down on an EJ before, from my knowledge, the drum mechanism should be mounted to the backing plate itself. Therefor, mount the backing plate, mount the rotor/hub and caliper. I need some pics to see if it is set up like that and to see if its possible to modify it to work.

Got some new pics of my coupe not too long ago. Nothing has really changed except for the roof rack was installed along with black bumpers.

So I've been pondering this idea for awhile but have never gotten around to seeing what it would take to do it. So for those of you who have thought of the same thing or have possibly done such a conversion, what did you have to do to get an EJ rear brake setup onto an EA82 car? I wanna end up upgrading my rear brakes when I upgrade my fronts again. This topic is also being discussed over on XT6.net right now but the farthest we've gotten is adapters. I want to be able to put rear rotors from an EJ directly onto my coupe.... Thoughts, opinions, suggestions? Any sort of collaboration is welcome!

well if you search the board and read "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell, you'll understand that a twin turbo setup in a stock form is not going to fit and wil create the same amount of power. Plus, trying to get everything for it to run flawlessly is going to be more difficult to do compared to a single turbo EJ20. Now if its completely stock and you plan on driving it like a granny, then a stock EA82T is fine BUT if you want to get more power out of the EA82T, it'll make more power if you drop it from the Empire State Building. Unless you have a good amount of $$$ (roughly $6k or so) then an EA82T build IS possible but you risk blowing engines, making mistakes which result in a blown engine, etc. The best option is to swap in an EJ20 of some kind or a NA EJ. Perfomance parts are readily available, all the parts for swaps are going for a pretty decent price, and there's a few people on here that have done an EJ turbo swap, like Suberdave (2) for instance. So if power and reliability are your wants, then thats the best option for the money.

YAY EvilDead has joined the dark side finally:-p

In the area you live in (since it can get pretty warm down there) and for the cheapness of a brand new 2 core radiator, I myself, would upgrade to one. I bought one a few months ago and it cost me roughly $120 shipped to my door from www.radiatorsexpress.com IIRC. If its running hot and you want to use the AC, spend the $120 now instead of however much another engine will run you plus the joy of swapping them when it is blazing hot outside.

deodorant for Jeff?

Yeah but how many times did I have a good running car to get me there and that I didn't have to work?

You're just jealous of WCSS Paul:-p It's ok to be a hater, now you gotta come out for one.

This is why roofracks and Brat jumpseats were invented. Don't wanna deal with them? Strap them to the roof or make them ride in the bed:lol:

count me in for a set for a gen 1 stage 2 wagon and a gen 1 Brat as well!