Caboobaroo

Exactly what I was thinking.

sweet. Congrats man!

Delta 260 cams, rebuilt gen 2 turbo heads, Megan Racing 3" bellmouth downpipe, TD04 turbo, WRX TMIC with Turbo XS BOV, '88 XT spyder intake, Nissan 280ZX turbo injectors, SPFI shortblock, Samco intercooler hoses, AEM cold air intake, plus 3 blown engines. Unless you plan on getting a good fuel management setup or feel like investing in engines, not much of a worthwhile investment to do serious power upgrades to the EA82T. You can do some (like intake, exhaust, intercooler) but I went through 3 engines and said that I was done.

Phil, thats the idler since the oil pump gear has a lip on it. Just rip the covers off, pull the belt (repace it because I'm guessing its probably done for...) and slap some new tensioners and an idler with new belts at it and voila, done.

I think they look better on an EA82 coupe myself... Looks good Chux. Keep up the good work. Soon, I'll be rebuilding a new rear end setup for my coupe which is gonna get powder coated and EJ rear discs... mmmmm:slobber:

Only place you can really get a better price is ebay but $78 is pretty cheap for a full gasket set.

Oh yeah, I'm one of the lucky few to have today off.....

what are you doing inside? Get out there and make it roar!

EA81 adapter is what will work for the EA71. I got mine from an EA81 hatch and bolted perfectly onto my EA71 in the Brat.

You should get a vid of it when you first crank it over. Then once it starts you need a vid of that too!

It's a sealed setup. Once something starts failing, time to replace it.

For the RX trans, I'm going to be putting in some of Scotties Cocktail mix, very common over on NASIOC. Here's the list of what it takes along with the amount, but remember, this is for a WRX tranny. Uncle Scotty's Cocktail of 1qt Redline lightweight shockproof, 1qt Pennzoil or GM Synchromesh, 2qt Castrol HypoyC 80w-90. I'm planning on using an OEM gear oil made for our LSDs and hopefully I can find some. If not, like Junkie said, a regular gear oil with an LSD additive works or an aftermarket LSD gear oil will work for it. The amount you'll need for the tranny is 3.5 quarts according to the '87 FSM. Rear diff capacity is .8 quarts

well if its similar to like a gen 1 Brat front suspension setup, then you can use EA81 control arms and make the radius rods that go from the control arm to the tranny mount. I made a set and they were easy, plus I welded them onto the EA81 control arms. Mkes things much simpler plus I had the vented rotors and calipers. If you just want to put the rotors and calipers on your car, if the knuckles are the same as the gen 1 Brat, then they'll bolt up. With the control arms, I had parts that were easier to get, plus cheaper ($36.00 a piece per ball joint vs. $16.00 for lifetime warrantly ball joints for the EA81).

I have a bunch of both in my box... One nice thing about working for a bodyshop, I ended up with a lot of supplies because they lived in my box and I "forgot" to take them out:-p

In a turbo car, the 3.9 is awesome for anything but driving on the freeway as it will make the engine hover higher in the rpm range. My '87 coupe on the other hand has the RX box in it (dual range FT4WD 5-speed) with the 3.7 and its great for the SPFI in my car. I get great around town performance since I always have it in 4lo, then when I get on the freeway, I slap it in 4hi and in 5th gear, I can pass people just by downshifting into 4lo.

I had a 28/32 on my high compression EA71 in my Brat. Was awesome and perfectly jetted.

They might.... If I had a blow up view of the front end, I could tell you if you could make some custom control arms to fit EA81 knuckles in there too. Is it like a gen 1 stage 2 setup?

Where did you get the tool from? I'm going to be stripping down a complete rear suspension and get it powder coated for my coupe (I kinda messed the threads up where the rear seal housing screws into the trailing arm a bit) along with putting new seals, bearings and bushings in it... You sir, have a PM coming your way;)

I remember garner had put a push button 5-speed into his gen 1 Brat with the EA2T install but I think he hacked his tunnel up to do so.

There's a bearing inbetween the tophat and the upper coil spring perch that tends to go out on that era of Toyota Corolla/Camry. Gotts pull the strut assembly out, compress the spring, pull the tophat, erplace the bearing and put it together. There IS a torque spec for the strut bolt that goes through the tophat of 36 ft-lbs. Torque it after its in the car and sitting on all 4s

When getting axles for a gen 1 Brat, ask to get an axle for a gen 2 car (wagon, coupe, sedan, Brat, it don't matter) since they are only 1/2" longer compared to the gen 1 axles.

This is the most important step right here!

If its a single range pushbutton, then no its not safe to drive on dry pavement in 4wd. If its the full time 4wd single range, then yes it is which is an early AWD setup. Short and blunt, no, not a good idea unless you wanna ruin the tranny.

Looks awesome man. You could see about rolling the fenders a bit to help with clearance issues and get some stiffer shocks for it to help with how low the car gets when people get into it. Looks like it cleaned up real nice and I can't wait to see how this turns out!

Sweet, I can do that. I'll see how much backing plates from the dealer are through my work but if they're too spendy, I'll get some from a junkyard. I'll see what I can come up with!