Caboobaroo

I have an A-bar for someone in the Seattle area that purchased it from baccaruda. Its in Redmond but I don't have a lot of time to take it anywhere. I can bring it to my work (Les Schwab on East Lake Sammamish Pkwy) right off of 520 in Redmond. PM me with a number I can reach you at and we can go from there:banana:

EA82T from Aussie. He was on the board awhile ago. Search for QikRXturbo http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21362 Search FTW....

you can't just swap alternators, thats not an option. There's quite a bit of wiring that has to be done around the external VR box on your car. Since the fuel pump is also run through the VR box, it'll fill up the bowl on the carb, and once the bowl is empty, then no more run. Fuel pump will run with the key in the "Start" position but once its released to the "Run" position, it won't keep the pump movin. This will also be the case when the alternator dies, no worky fuel pump.

Why have you posted this in 3 areas already? Stick with one, 3 is not needed...

What car are you doing this on? Is it manual or auto? Are you wanting to swap 2wd auto to 4wd auto? 2wd manual to 4wd manual? 2wd auto to 4wd manual?

Thats right, I was the right one:-p So neener neener neener:banana:

Did you make sure to bleed the brakes in the correct pattern? Bleeding brakes can be tricky for a lot of people until they know excatly where to start and what they're looking for. Have someone plop into the driver seat, without the car running and pump the brakes probably 10 times. Have them hold the pedal down and crack open the bleeder valve. You always want to start in the same spot to bleed brakes on any car. Passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. If you like your car, replace the hoses without a second thought. When I did the engine swap in my coupe, I never fully bled the coolant system of air and it started to get hot on the freeway. I was almost home when the upper radiator hose burst and it was the original one with 260k miles on it. I also use dealer thermostats as well, always nice to spend a couple extra bucks.

with such a short sidewall that 40 and 45 series tires have, the tire won't flex and rub the trailing arm unless you get too wide of a tire. I have a set of 16x7 rims that I'll be throwing onto my coupe and will get some pics when I get them on. I have seen 17x7's but you have to roll the fenders. I know WJM stuffed 18's under his RX but IMHO, after seeing Tex's old RX with 18's, they look too big to fit the car, cosmetically speaking.

I looked at the one pics he originally posted up, no others. I saw the distinctive EA82 bodylines and the composite headlight so I knew it was a GL and more then not, a good feeling that it was a wagon (because if it was a 3-door, I know he wouldn't be doing THIS to it, heh)

TTIWWOP! Show us some pics mang! I wanna see this:banana:

he states Galen he was there last Friday...:-p what a n00b!

EA82 GL wagon.... possibly an EA82T?

the passenger side of your car should be pointing straight up, put the belt on, then roate the engine 360 degrees to point the passenger side down. Then point the driver side up and put that belt on. Always start with the belt that is on the distributor side of the engine.

Were you the one with the silver wagon that showed up? I was the one wearing the green shirt driving the black Brat.

I had a parts '85 GL-10 turbosedan that had black interior. I had saved the dash before I moved but had to toss it because I had no room for it. I did get the checkerboard seats and belts from it though. Yes, Brad's coupe does have black interior, I was talking to him about that awhile ago. Very very very hard to find parts for it. Since I know how to paint interior panels though, I can change mine to black, hehehe:-p

If its not a fuel inlet, it'll be a return line to the tank. I don't too much experience with carb EA82s but I would think it should be hooked up. The breather for the tank doesn't need to be since its to help with the ozone so if you removed the canister, then no need for it to be hooked up.

I sure did. I've actually had a few PMs about a 5-lug conversion on an EA81 as well. The rear is easy, just like doing a rear disc swap so the same parts are needed but from an XT6, not just a regular EA82T. The front you might be able to get away with swapping the top hats from the EA81 onto XT6 struts but if not, you'll have to redrill the strut towers to accept the EA82/XT6 3 stud tophats. Then its just a matter of the control arms because the ball joint is bigger around then the EA82/EA82. I've heard you can ream out the control arm to accept it but thats pretty scary, probably be better to make some custom control arms instead.

The one on the right goes to the carb (fuel inlet) the one in the center used to go to the charcoal canister from the fuel tank to help with burning of fumes from the fuel tank, and the one on the left is a brake line.

If I were you D, go with the suspension and brake upgrades first, before any extra EJ is put into there. If you decide to put the EJ in there, the stock brakes will hold but remember, they were stopping a car powered by an 80hp EA81, not some 200hp EJ.... This is also why I wanted to do my 5-lug swap on my SPFI coupe before anything else.:-p

My '78 Brat I got after it had sat in a junkyard for 15 years not running. The guy who got it from this junkyard didn't know how to get it running quite right so I traded him a Justy for it. Took some tinkering for me to get it golden but it ran awesome for awhile. However, I ran into the problem of the gaskets being old and was starting to leak oil more and more every week. I finally replaced the engine since I had an extra one. You can do a complete reseal on this engine in a day and that includes pulling it and doing a valve job.

want a good piece of advice when it comes to those roll pins? Go to a local shop and ask them when the Mac Tools truck comes in. When it does, spend $15 and get the special Subaru axle roll pin tool (I forget the number off the top of my head). Its about 10"-12" long, is knurled at one end for easy grip and the other end has the correct tip for Subaru roll pins. I actually have 2 because of how nice they work. I was kind of skeptical about getting one but I bought it and will never turn back. I see it as this. Even though it was $15, it saves me headaches of trying to get it out with other tools, breaking off roll pins and so on. I also found that if the roll pin was boogered up previously, it takes a bit more pounding but it'll make it come out. Also, its hardened steel so the end doesn't get messed up from having to "gently" remove those stubborn pins:grin:

Welcome! I actually threw out a pair of unwarped, uncracked heads a few months ago for an EA82T since the engine they were on had to go before I moved. You'll find a lot of information on here about modifying the EA82T but the best results of a modded EA82T usually blow something. I had a decently built EA82T with a high compression bottom end and I blew the ring lans off of a couple cylinders. If you're looking for some power, I would swap in an EJ20G like a couple people have done. Search around for the Ultimate RX which is currently owned by SubaruTex and also search for Suberdave. He's done 2 EJ20 swaps, one in his turbowagon and one in an EA82 turbocoupe which is now owned by Sister7. I plan on doing the EJ20G swap into my EA82 coupe eventually. They tend to make pretty decent power even in stock form compared to the EA82T.

well depending on which road you're taking through Washington, I'm just a few minutes from I-90 and I-405. Good luck with your trip and hopefully it will be a safe one:headbang:

My EA82 coupe has a stock EA82 SPFI y-pipe, stock EA82T midpipe and the axle back rusted out of the original muffler from my RX so I put a cheap ebay $30 melon shooter on it. Sounds throaty but its not too annoying:-p I spent $30 on the muffler (or something like that) and another $10 on piping from Schucks and welded it up. http://rides.webshots.com/video/3057704240067339125SSoyCq?vhost=rides

I have to agree, I missed the fact that you were replacing the clutch on it. Remove the engine instead of the tranny. Its 10x easier and less stressful, plus while the engine is out, is a good time to take care of any oil leaks like the oil pan, valve covers, front and rear main seals and such. If the clutch is all you're after, just unbolt the exhaust, unbolt the 2 engine mounts, unbolt the 4 bellhousing bolts, the pitch stopper, fuel lines, alternator wiring, disty wiring, main engine harness, a couple small vac lines, 2 hear core lines, remove the PS pump and 2 brackets for the lines, AC compressor, and there's a few other little things that need to come off. I found it takes more time to pull just the tranny then it does to pull, swap and reinstall the engine but I can do a complete engine swap in like 4 hours on an SPFI EA82. Also remove the radiator for more room.