Yo'J

Mcdave, Subeman, Your all the same.... helping folk on this board! Thanks anyway for future help then! Oh and thanks Subeman for the write up! Threeeyedwagon So, yes its a body lift, like six blocks in back and ten up front. I couldn't find rear shocks in back just two inches longer, so, it seems to be the coilover from the ea82 4 wd (as the 2wd is longer still by two inches) to make the rear work. The listed rancho shocks on Scotts site is for a 4". I did the back first and drove it (I needed the car for my fathers B-day and didn't want to drive my 66' f100. Too much gas!). I tore into the front the following day not realizing I should take the steering shaft while the car was still on the ground for ease work. Put it up on stands and put a jack under the engine behind the oil pan. Then I procceded to unbolt the "what ever they are" by the tranny mounts and then crossmember and do those blocks first, the "what ever they are" called blocks. Not realizing of course that the slight incline I was on would make lining up the holes a little difficult. But they are all in. I did say "CUSTOM" lift right? You down yet? Scott does seem good like that. I'll take photos after I fix my windows machine, this linux box (which has saved my life) I'm still not compatable with. So update time! I pulled the axle and tore it apart today to find the cup has a big crack that I couldn't have made (maybe driving, I have hit the trails a few times) and the little tin seal that keeps the lube from running into the splines folded in half and the worst bent wire clip. The bearings were also out of the race and floating around. So $135 for a new one or $45 for a used one up here and steal the cup. I still haven't checked or pulled the other side. Its raining and getting dark.

Thanks for the vote of confidence! Scott made me a custom 2" lift. I had to use the coilover conversion writeup by Mcdave to get it to work for the rear end. Thank You Mcdave! So, a body lift. At 220k+ I'm sure the motor mounts are shot. I'm just trying to limp this thing along till I can get my 90 legacy home and apart to do the swap. I figure the lift should be first. I was thinking of using a polyurethane for custom mounts when done. I probably pushed down to hard when pulling the strut out. On that side it was fairly stuck even after a good cleaning and a good spray with creeping oil. Should have seen the strut go back in before I realized the axle popped!

Here, is there a way to tell which axles are the right one for your car? I don't trust the shop that replaced the ones I have. If they put in a bad pair, and I find trouble, like bad wear, is that suspect to a off sized axel? How would I know the right one?

Well, I'll get the parts and do this rebuild. I'll post with the next thing I break. That writeup is very good! I'm so glad you can show me that, I would have a hard time with out seeing it. I hope I can get the stuff from autovice here they do VW. I have to get new throtle shaft bushings anyhow. Which axle parts go out the fastest? Say, if I wanted to keep extra parts on board. Where is the spell check option for english? Is this a common problem or did I break that too?

So what you say is I pulled the spring wire off......New booties are at like, napa? I am so down:banana: I am so lame:banghead: So if this shop I went to( I read the prior post) reused all the old components I should get more if they are worn. Can I buy new parts like bearings and cups without the whole axle at the local auto shlop? Heck, I need both fronts done over. Is there a better or worse front and rear (inner and outer I guess) rubber bootie? I Thank you so much!

I installed a sjr ea81 2" custom lift with new front struts and now I think my CV axle popped out, inside the rubber boot. It makes a loud pop every time I rotate it and it looks like it popped out. I'll bet I cant drive on it, it shakes the whole motor just turning it over. What the hell did I do? Is it fixable? What am I missing? Can I pull it and smack the shnot out of it or is it toast? Do they just fall apart? As a newbie, this is my first lift, strut job, brake job, rear coilover mod and soon rear disc swap. I've never done an axle but always wanted to be able as the shops rip me off and I have to go back to have them fix the mess of a bootie on the other side, not even six months old. I.E I got the car and took it in to have it checked out and the wouldn't let me drive it out with out two new axles and like 3 bearings of course "frozen" for over $1200. Pretty good considering I bought it for $400. Warranty work for them only and never again. I have done one front bearing on my ford...with help. I'm alone on this one in my gravel drive. Why do I always get spellcheck in spanish? Amigo?

I love good literature!

I had to use a timing light after I replaced the manifold bolts and gaskets causing my manifold leak to get mine to work right. I chased issue after issue and now I get o.k. mileage but my motor has 220k and doesn't rev so fast. Everything was worn on mine, the distributor rattled like a pebble in a tin can till replaced. I don't believe it ran at all. I've stripped almost everything else off but the asv and the heater controls. I'm about to open the catalytic converter as well. She is now almost perfectly tunable, easily, and works as my daily driver. I can bury the needle and idles fine, finally. Some of the hose placements I still find confusing but they havent caused a problem yet. So much info and variabilities on the internet I wish I had someone to double check mine. Not being a trained mechanic doesn't help in my case. You sound so close! Do you have a fuel pressure regulator? Webers can't take more than 3.5 lbs. before they just overflow and I find the floats are tricky. I run at 2.5 to 2.75lbs fine. I don't know anything about the possibilities of the ecu in relation year or type of the distributor causing your problem though. I've noticed 82 is a weird year.

If I were you I might think of selling personalized stickers like that. I want one when I get my set up closer to complete! You have done good work!

That is the idea! BANG!! What else would you do with a hydrogen balloon? YA HOO!!!

I am not impressed. Here a guy flys some hundred balloons in a chair and no one could make one,1, uno balloon. Is the output that weak?

O.K. 140 main jet back in for the last few days. I've noticed a few things. The gauge jumps from off the scale lean to rich all the time at 30-40 cruise. One trip down the highway only does so good. So I guessing(I know I do a lot of that), that I was reading this thing wrong. The weber should just sip the gas when needed right? Meaning when it is off the scale its just not reading a lean condition, its a reading a coasting condition,i.e. no throttle. Should an engine stay in the stoich during most driving situations like slow acceleration? If so I would need to go with a 135 main or smaller, then I would not be running so rich when I am at cruise. If that is true, then would I want to match that secondary as well? Am I trying to stay stoich at WOT as well?

Anyone make balloons for the fourth?

L series, Hmmm, sounds good. I'm guessing the stock tires won't go back on with a coilover or will moving the tops and diameter of the spring just miss the tire? I will be rolling on pugs but it would be nice to have a spare set. A friend mentioned that it would be wise to adjust the front suspention for the increased weight load of the ej22. I'm guessing the gr2s are the only thing for the front as I haven't read that much about new stuff or mods for an ea81 besides welding on different towers. Something I'm not ready to try.

Well I already have a dead ignition switch and now a pushbutton connected right at the pink connector. But, I have an update. After starting four times today like nothing was wrong but the sound of a bad gear and not starting twice and having to get a push to start (just to start fine at the next stop) I spent the cash on a remanufactured starter for a 87 automatic, it starts like a jet. It was $95 with a 2yr warranty and the old one was a bosch. The guy said the bosch ones are crap and wear fast. Both were for an 87 auto. The bosch cost me $150 5yrs ago. Thanks for the help, if its something else, still..... ....!

I'm getting ready to lift my 82 wagon 2" and I cannot find a rear shock. I've read here that I can get some lift? from a later year coilover shock assembly. Does anyone know how much lift a loyale rear coilover shock would get me? I would really like coilovers as my wagon is a lumber wagon already! I've also found rancho part#s rs5129 and 5240 that might work in place of stock but they need some drilling or bushings or magic to get them to fit. I figure some square stock, McBrats writeup, and the correct size lift from the coilover and I might not kill the camber to badly. Anyone know the sizes? Anyone know a better option for a 2" lift on a ea81 rear suspention? Also, I'm getting ready to put in an ej22 What would a better front strut be for the increased weight? Its time to get all the ducks in a row!

It does seem a little corroded. Sometimes, now, it doesn't click. The starter is about 5yrs old. Is it just getting time? I'll check the spade connector.

Just parts on my last (and only) head gasket job alone cost me close to $1500 but alot was wrong and I had to get new heads as my cracks were huge, that was an ea82. oil was in everything including the overflow tank, one nasty greenish milkshake. The carb was crud and needed work too I think with all new hoses, filters and belts all the way around.

well, 26.5mpg sofar last tank 2/3s highway 1/3rd major in town driving 219,000 ea81 weberized

So here is the deal, just a click and and low juice on the battery. The situation; New battery yesterday wouldn't hold juice, new starter contacts, side by side starter pushbutton with ignition, problem persists, was more intermittent than it is now. Is there a voltage regulator? where? Is some other part of the starter fail-able like that? I got 14. 2 at the alt. 14.1 at the battery. Any other way to test the alt? I hate throwing money away but I might just to get a new starter and alt(right before I drop in a ej, darnit:banghead: ea81, 82' GL

Alright! Got data! 26.5 mpg with140 main, 2/3s highway driving. 150 main is too big! She runs steady in the rich on cruise, very steady! I'll bet the 145 would be perfect as the 140 left me off the scale lean. The power difference is huge! Well sort of...it just doesn't have that dry feeling any more, like it needed monostat7 or something! I wont get a good reading on mileage for a little bit, she needs to be driven and I'll be in town for the next week at least. You know 5 stops in two miles there and 4 stops in 3 miles home. I'll make sure everything is tight and steady, then drop in the 145. She still bogs/fuel starves at WOT around corners like on ramps, maybe worse now:grin: ! And of course the other problems that are currently showing up!

Well my 66 ford has antlers, I'll bet the Cleveland 351 in that has a few extra amps to get silly with! I threw out twenty amps because it would equal one large electrolyzer with supposed large output. Or one fancy huge boomming stereo that needs an extra battery. I always wanted 15amps of 120v free on the subie anyway, plug in and go to town, tablesaw, chop saw at least a skill saw, all run between 18amps start up and 10-15 running.

Lets say 20 amps, what is my mpg of gas loss. Whats my h2o loss for the same? What is the H-H-O- gain? What are we trying to figure out here? Give me a real figure. Science, (as a religion) is an experiment.

movin'

So just for conversations sake, how much energy does the radio take from the battery and the alt? Does the radio decrease mileage?