Yo'J

bump....

I had put the plate on, but, didn't seal the pipe. Should I go seal off the pipe? Will this affect performance? ea81, we don't have much.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49961

The whole thing moves. You can reach in the engine bay and wiggle the steering wheel and watch the shaft move at the firewall. I'm sourcing a ujoint today and I might pull the dash apart to look for bolts loose or bent. I wouldn't surprise me if all is worn. I've replaced almost all wear items on the car so far, what is a few more? The only thing thats left in the car originally is the block, (new manifold) Dash, front calipers, knuckles, seat belts, carpet and the steering column, rear diff and muff (the "ler" fell off)

Dude! Have the mounties drive you up there to get it! Gotta get a ride from someone! What would they think about that? I wish you a better new year and glad you get your rig back!

Ditto that!

Its hard to believe no one has done a steering column swap for reasons of steering column woes or fixed the column wiggle. Anyone know steering issues? What makes a column wiggle at the firewall through the dash? Am I asking the wrong questions?

The clean ones are getting harder to find.........

OH, and no I'm not that crazy:rolleyes:, I had purchased everything just two days before the accident and I will need to drive it until everything is settled anyhow. Now, on with the evening:drunk:(insert sexy girl emocon here) Happy New Year Everyone!

For 500 bucks it better come with the rest of the car!

HI, I'm gonna get an alignment on my subi, the side swiped one, I just got a new steering rack from red head and tie rods and ball joints and bushings in down under and I noticed my column u-joint is a little wiggly and my steering column is too. In the book(haynes) it shown a bushing on the steering shaft and a bracket, which I'll bet has another. I figure I'll get another u-joint at some point but what about replacing the other bushings? Will this effect my up coming alignment, like making it more difficult to do? Has any one done the column bushings? Is it a PITA? It was hit hard enough to turn the front wheels when parked so I'm tracking down the issues.

Well the mods are easy if you can drill a piece of metal and wrench a bolt. You will need 4 sticks of flatbar, size depending on the seat size and were you want it (for taller folk or shorter folk). I think I used 2" x 3/32" (maybe 1/16")a little thin but its what the seat was made of. Any seat will do if they fit in the car width and depth whatever. Keep your frame rails!!!!! My ea81 (totaled christmas) has 2004 outback seats with the height adjust lever. Little tight on install but if I where to do it again.... Well I'd pick a narrower style legacy bucket seat (that folds totally flat:brow:). They are nicer for skinny folk like me. If you are a bigger person, the outback seats rock as they are wider. Oh, my front set ran like $75 to $100. You can do better.

Slipped timing belt? 130K is time. Carbon blocking egr in manifold?

That is my big fear, a bent piece of metal is soon to snap. A roll cage would be nice but so would a sturdy frame. Turd Polishing is way over-rated. I hate the feeling of the walls closing in around me! AAAHHHGHHaaaaa Ha Ha Maybe off topic, but, maybe my car saved the passenger from certain death as my 66 f100 was right in front of my parked car and barely missed (I still don't know how). The hit to my car bounced them by, the truck would have stopped them in their tracks and I would have watched the whole thing, as I did. Gotta find a better way to look at it....

I'll try to get some pics uploaded, mandriva keeps dumping mozilla. I already have a 2" lift and 235/70/14s, coils in the rear on a 3" plate as high as they can go. I work wood, I carry some weight about twice a week. It might not be so bad to do a "cage" or at least some thing from the front to the rear and beef up that pillar in the middle and across the top. Does that mean I could put in a sun roof and not have to worry about the front windshield cracking with an ej assisted cluch dump? I don't know how to weld though. Cage or roll bar? What would my contact points be? What would my base be? Just my frame rails? Do I just cut into them and then weld away? So many questions!! So little time!!

I have two scrap doors and a bent pillar. Drivers side. Can I straighten out the pillar, reinforce it, like maybe a roll cage (or less..lets think budget)? What would a good fix be? Doors are replaceable. The pillar isn't (affordably anyway) my life isn't either so I want it to be safe Its only moved a little 3/4" to 1" it looks off hand, bent in the middle at the window line. Or should I just scrap the car and park it till I can get the lift and all the other goodies off it? All my parts for an ej swap are in, but the muffler, and I would hate to put all this work into the trash but the car is effectively trashed. Should I wait to find another body? Its an 82' wagon.

I keep looking at this stock hatch by my house with the round lights and I keep thinking how cool it would look to make an mesh grill with the 3eye and sink the lights to look like a new mustang. I love the round lights! I hear the parts are tough to find.

The carb, I think, would be a feedback carb so it gathers info on how the car is acting. The egr can be cleaned if it has no leaks and I have seen the manifold holes completely blocked with carbon fyi. The o2 sensor should be checked and I think, someone should pipe in here, The sensor can be a non subaru item as long as it has the same wire count. If its toast, it will always run poorly like its cold, not necessarily hurting power just economy and emmissions . They can be expensive$100 oem, but if I remember its a 2 wire and a bosch isn't that badly priced$40. Most vacuum leaks would give you a high idle. A clog, well....not so much. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86141&highlight=stock+carb This might help a little

The 5speed d/r just puts the car into a different category for performance. If you think you had it good with a PB then you haven't really tried a D/R. Pulling cars out of snowed ditches or getting to the top of that super muddy or snowy logging road is almost impossible with out it. I don't think I could l could ever go back.

Do you have a stock carb? I'll just guess so for now. I've had this problem before so I'm interested to hear about it. I put a weber carb on and that solved my problem but for you It might be not the solution. Have you done any maintenance like o2 sensor or egr replacement, checked for vacuum leaks? How is your power when its running?

That mod sounds great! How long did it take you total? I was thinking of something like that on my old 87 subi. So 4w is separated out of the high/lo. How is shifting in or out of 4wd in high vs lo? Just as normal?

police took a report LOL there. White truck, seattle. million folk is the GSA, literally. To catch the punk is worthless. Now insurance....I will find how worthless.

I just got nailed by a hit and run as well.

Winter sucks for Sube owners. This is like the 15th Sube to get damaged because of stupid driving this winter. Sad, really sad. Poor little GL wagon. -Bill Reply With Quote The sad part is I wasn't driving it, it was a hit and run. They are ignorance marks from some turd bucket, not homemade lightening marks or speed dents, barely any mileage marks and over 222k miles. Well... new doors and then the ej . Well I guess I don't need to worry about how the paint comes out now:-\

I allways go to the shop to match parts! Calipers in hand. I have gotten everything for an ea82 first. Wheel bearings, wrong ones, water pump, yup, axles, wrong, cap and rotor wrong. Be prepared to send them back. Advance, Napa, schmucks, carqwest, whatever. Right box, wrong part. It dissuades me from using the internet for parts unless its obvious, like a motor from ccr. I would order that.