Yo'J

I was referred to Mark from leading edge glass out of n. seattle, I have 2 gl windshields to replace but haven't given them a call due to other expenses and my cracks don't leak yet. I saw another place touting "cheapest auto glass in seattle" I cant remember the name but they are mobile in some blue van. I'd get quotes from all of them "cheapies" and find the one that will beat the lowest quote.

It does stop when I push in the clutch. As long as the brat will last me through an ej swap in my lifted wagon and keep me on the road I'm really ok. I wasn't thinking of liftin' it but increasing suspention and someday, awd ej swap. I'm thinking custom wood canopy, brightworked, Japanese/American design, removable, resume' style. I've wanted that since I was a kid.

Tranny oil is low. The ticking or clicking is pretty loud. I'm pretty sure its not the axle. Not 100%. But its a different noise. The "only on deceleration" part is what really bothers me. Its a hydro lifted 87 brat, stock with the little plastic covers in the engine bay.

I just checked the fluids and its low, checked cold. I looked underneath and the whole car is wet, hard to tell where its coming from. I haven't a chance yet to clean the engine bay. I just put in front wheel bearings yesterday and the disty wednesday. Took it for its first freeway test drive yesterday. The whole engine bay is filled with oil blow by. Will fill and monitor.

Yeah, rpm, tach speed. It seems loudest in second gear, but that might be due to lack of road noise. Sounds like a cv would sound going around a corner.

GD has a great carb writeup for the older cars. If you don't have the cars history, its gonna be daunting. Its usually a mix of all the parts. Hoses clogged or leaking, disty misfiring, O2 sensor shot, cat clogged, gaskets leaking, filters clogged, wires busted, vacuum solenoids not actuating, ect. Then the carb. You could get lucky, and the timings off. The USRM is pretty cool.

Ea81 4spd d/r What could this be? It clicks in relation to gear not speed. I haven't checked the fluids and the tranny mounts are shot. I just got wheel bearings installed, axles are fine and new. How much life does she have doc?

On principal I have to make mention of the similarities in materials between wood, a cutting board and possibly, your transmission. Wood is a great thing, but it moves alot when it changes its level of humidity or water saturation. Minute differences can be measured. A solid wood, one piece cutting board will only last the rigorous torments of family life if the grain is in perfect order. If you have, twisted or knotty grain, grain that is grown on unstable or un-level ground, the wood will have tensions in it enough to break on its own. Most cutting boards today are made of many little strips. You might think thats the size of the trees they are cutting down, looking at the quality of the wood in your local stores selection. True it is, unfortunately. Wood with mass internal tensions, the tree had a hard time growing up. But the strips are to diffuse all the tensions by giving them a purpose to fight with each other, straightening each other out. (Buy the one with breadboarded ends if they are splined, dadoed or dovetailed especially.) I don't know a lot about metal working, but I do know that it shares a lot of the same characteristics when it changes from heat. Your transmission might have a casting flaw.

I would love to see pics of the steering rack installation and what you did to shim it in there.

Yay! It looks like that is the next swap on the list! The tranny in my brat (I hope) will last till I ej my wagon, dump my current donor and source the next donor 'with' a transmission! I figure I had better stick with the game plan of ej-ing the wagon as its a once totalled vehicle, I can, at the very least, get good practise doing a swap before I do some dumb move on a beautiful brat with a straight body and very little rust. I couldn't believe my eyes when I got my emissions report back. It said I passed! And very well thank you! It still sounds like I got a socket in the tail pipe when revved, (should have seen the emission guys face:eek:) but she be legal! So, along with the front LSD, there is the rear, is it the same part#? I havent found the link to the rear diff swap out page yet, does anyone have the link for the conversion?

I believe the shafts are larger on the EJ ones.

Hi jibs, I want a ej 5speed to crack and replace the stubs on, no d/r bs. If it can, it will. The ea 5speeds are cool and all but I think it would make a brat with the lsd rear and the AWD. My 4sp d/r is toast, I got the brat running today, I'm not happy, the tranny wont live a year of use (undisclosed sellers omission, came with extra tranny, didn't do math). I gotsta' mak'a decision!!!! Everything costs munny:banghead:! I know this thing wont pass emissions, the cat sounds like its gotta socket in it for cristobals sake! If its gotta be replaced, along with the grease sodden, untunable, carb and manifoId, might as well go the whole way, I cant weber it in seattle without good cats and pass. I'm sitting on an ej swap in parts (gotta Save the Cats!), minus the welder and the ej AWD tranny, (he is my neighbor, I don't sit on him.) for the AWD tranny brackets. No time, no space. What to do? I was gonna ej my 82 wagon but it doesn't have to pass emissions and the brat motor is better. I haven't done the compression yet on the brat, but I'm 100 psi in my cyl#1 in my wagon and nothing goes above 140 no matter what I do. 225k on the clock. So if I have to get a new tranny, wiring, driveshaft, (and axles its a subaru!) tires and what ever else, It seems to me to do the right thing and AWD my soon to be EJed BRAT! I can still drive the 82 wagon, I cant drive the brat like a dd without a good engine management system. I love you guys!

4 lug, I might redrill for 6....someday. I'll keep the jackman rims I got for now. I wanna figure out what happens to the tranny shafts to make them fit. "Just like stock"?.... they just pop in? All ea trannies or is there a model to look for? Say I found a.......FREE __?__....and kept my parts. I also wonder how the linkage fits in the tunnel. On the 5spd conversion on my 82 wagon, Brian (I cant remember his companies name)welded the stock shifter to the tranny linkage, it works but not bolt on for sure. Has anyone done this to a brat who might know the driveshaft length? ShawnW? You mentioned you did it, but not to what vehicle. Is there anything I'm missing? If doing the ej swap should the wiring be considered? For example I swap in the 22 keeping the stock tranny and wait on the awd then later completeing the swap or should it just happen together for ease of the wiring job. Will my lego auto donor car have the right wiring for a manual? I'm guessing it will. Its a 90 2wd auto. Could that restrict my transmission options? I'm sure thats redundant but I'm hoping it wont restrict me to 90-92.

So, I think I need to source a tranny to crack and put in new splines. I think modding the axles will be about the same price after sourcing parts, maybe more to crack the tranny, but not that much over the long term. I have a 200kmile 5 spd d/r to pull the splines out of or the working 137k d/r4spd if I so chose. My question is what has to happen to the ea shafts to get them to fit the awd tranny? I figure I can get the parts ready to drop off at a shop. Any other tranny mod suggestions while the case is open? Any PNW shop suggestions? As soon as my brat drives on its own power I can pull this ej its blocking and I get to work! Rguyver......I'm jealous!

Time....Time....time....If thats all the world was made of. It seems its only made of deadlines. I need to go to arlington.

I so want a P/S crossmember!!!!! I'da pulled it!zzz I don't even need the rack!

Never discredit the golf ball effect!

Thanks!

But everybody here drives some fancy new car and all the old ones look top. Warshingtons big economic center, here, thrives on that false economy. You wont look cool at the office driving a beater. Real Warshingtonians dont care but the implants fall into the clique-y new toy routine. I say if you have a good interior, keep the car. Thats hard to find. The longer cars stay on the road the better for our future. PAP sells axles for 18+bucks and the heads aren't hard if even I have done it.

Its a denso coil, I just checked. It looks like there was a resistor there thats been removed. Should that be in place with the denso? Its cheaper to get the whole hitachi coil, disty,cap and rotor than a remaned denso disty. Wires and plugs might put it over the price, but whats the rest to replace in the whole system?

I think, but not sure, it was a nippon denso distributor. I bought the brat the week it failed and the PO took it to try to warranty it to no avail.

If the PO put a ND distributor in, could that be a determining factor in its failure?

Which disty do I get? I'm trying to get the core but it seems to be out a while. Stock everything carb (feedback I assume). I called the dealer and they quoted me $600:eek: Napa $310 for a ND and $204 hitachi. I know you can swap them out but I have to get this thing to pass emissions. What would you do? So the problem began all of a sudden when there was no spark during cranking the tack would just stay dead. Thats all I know. It wouldn't be anything else would it? Boy I would like to drive this thing!!

Get the whole car! Its amazing what you could do with the parts! Upgraded master cylinder, hood cable, cup holder, Steering rack? Legs for a coffee table out of tranny parts....Whatever! My donor is my spare parts shed right now.

I heard if its the appliance enamel its as hard as a rock but takes 5 coats or more. Good work by the way!