Yo'J

So I though someone posted they swappped inner tie rod ends on some model rack, threaded it down and stuffed it into their brat. I have a set of PS racks open in front of me, one brat and one 90 leg. The ej rack is in better shape than the ea81 and I would like to use it if possible. They are much easier to come by as well. I need new inners and outer tie rods anyway. I know the two are different lenghts so to make this work I need to shorten the ej. But how? Here I am..... The inner tie rods dont interchange but the outers do, on the rack itself. The ej rack is threaded as an innie and the ea81 is an outie, different sizes too. If the lego outer tie rod fits the brat knuckle it seems possible to thread past the (?the hexogonal part where you place your wrench) wrenching section to get to some 3/4" of avaliable meat. Otherwise one wouldn't be able to make it work unless someone knows of a different inner tie rod that would fit the ej rack that has enough meat on it to thread down enough to get the outers on and in place. It looks to me the EJ rack might just fit a non PS crossmember with just two holes drilled for the lines and a shim or two to adjust the angle of the steering linkage. I'm almost far enough along to pull the nonPS crossmember to see how hard it would be, but it wont be worth it if I cant use it anyway. It would make a good swap especially if you dont have to use the ea81 PS crossmember or pull it at all. Has any one tried this? Can it be done? Know of any good interchangeabilities here?

I pulled the motor and dropped the tranny. Resealed my EJ and cleaned my new to me 5spd. The brat needs some new parts! Lots-o-cleaning! Still got to finish the power steering rack and crossmember stuff to start putting it all together! I have been dying to have something to post here for a long time!:banana::banana:

I'd buy it for that price as long as its a d/r manual! (And a wrecked legacy just to have a "spare" motor. ) I like the look of the ea81 better, but, whatever. Its easy wrenching. I'm looking for one about that price right now it just needs a good interior and a straight body.

I'm pretty sure you can get it going again, free up that cylinder and get fair mileage. Heck an ea82 from the jy is cheap and only takes 2 intake and 2 exhaust gaskets and your time. There is a tone of backyard mech stuff you can do cheap like seafoam, atf and starting fluid to get you started on your way. It just takes your effort, some tools a manual and the usmb:)! I've been running a bad cylinder in my ea81 for a year and a half now and still getting 20 to 26mpg on a lifted wagon (motor swap coming along soon). I'm no mech but you can do it on these cars. The most modern still isnt an owie (audi) with a $300fuel pump in two locations buried miles under interior trim. If I can do head gaskets, and still burn oatmeal, all by myself, so can you. Just watch the oatmeal.

200ftlbs whats this "a little more" stuff.

Hmmm, I'll bet they, at the first link, might have one for a gen 2. It looks like they might have one for a wagon too:eek: Even for an affordable price. :eek: Cromoly, coilovers s10 chassis, 2 to 14 pnt roll cages, these might be the bomb. Ya might be able to get them to comp a tshirt as well!

My 82 wagon only gets jealous when I'm at the dealership looking over the new lot. Wont start, lights act weird, some odd thing that doesnt happen anywhere else. Just like the fickle girl she is. She is always thinking I'm looking over the young nubile freshly corrupt-able things.

"To the soundest depth of your profession" Aristotle

On my first car, a subaru, it was a 85 wagon 2wd, that was a constant issue and it had only 145,000 before the rats ate it. It sat with the tick of death and the rats made a home destroying the interior completely and turned into a parts car. It came on sometimes at 1500rpm. If that was a problem I wouldnt have heard it over the engine. Otherwise that thing was a race car with the way it shifted and had tonnes of power for what it was. Quite fun. Speed sensor?

Hmmm, my 2" lift is even all across and the axles just seem to be weak. The only part of the car that is in its stock location is the shifter. What would make that weaken the axles besides the extra tire size. Isn't it possible to take the ea82 inner cup, bearings and race and attach them to a ea81 halfshaft? Remember the only new axle is a factory one and all the others are remans even empi. My new empi drivers axle clicks like hell but only in odd spots on my turn radius. My new junk yard one clicks worse in different spots and neither click all the time. ????? I looked at the remanns after cleaning and the race and balls are much lower quality than factory. After killing one good at reiters I found chips all over the race on the cup side when I blew the cv side in half. I won't go unless I carry 2 now. One to break on the trail and one to break getting off the trail. IMHO....they are all bad except factory, new never used, (like I'm gonna buy that) be careful. Oh, try looking at a reman on the counter and grab the inner or outer in one hand and shaft in the other and twist, like driving force, back and forth hard. If you get ANY play the bearing is in a worn cup or race, its blown already. I hope you get lucky.

I just pulled my ac due to an obstruction...Mice.. Between the fan and heater controls I found the fluffy padding and tones of moss all around the ac unit itself. Unfortunately, to get the ac box open I needed to dismantle the ac unit itself from the engine bay PITA. I'm working on a brat but it shouldn't be so different If you have slack in the ac lines into the engine bay you may be able to pull it forward enough to remove the clips holding the box together and put them back. If you dont have ac you will have no prob. just open the console remove the glove box and pop the conector tube from the fan to the airbox. You can see whats wrong from there if its an obstruction. Now if its the control unit itself you need to remove the center console as well as the drivers knee cover thingie. On my wagon one of the heat control cables, like a bicycle cable but the push variety, cracked, so It would hold the flapper arm in between settings so it could seem like an obstruction. From there you get the idea, Just run through the controls while you watch the mechanisms to see what works.

+1:lol:

I was thinking of wiring the ac controls to the ignition so it would have to be in the right position for the car to start.

The Ac box is different I just discovered. (I found mice) Its huge in comparison and it works more settings with it in than without for defrost. If you tuck it close I'm hoping it will work stuck under the dash but I just cut out my whole ac just in case there is no room and got a non ac connector. If you look at the connector in between the fan and heat control box in both sets of posted pics, you"ll see (I told myself this summer for my ej swap and Im late... too much work).

You will never want a 4sp again and in your eyes it will become needed hardware for any older soob you may own in the future. You will be thinking about adding it to other makes and models too.

Geez I love the look of a lifted wagon. They are so pimp.

Dont forget the ground. That was my prob once. Intermittent failure. Spark had no where to go, sure you got it going by jostling the car and opening the hood but a 20yr old very overlooked......

SCORE!:banana:

Dude! Nice! You can just about pop most of your dents with suction! I got a 87 with so many little dents it looks like bart simpson was making a time machine! I think you got a score! Your tail gate isn't that bad either, for stock. Get on that rust though. Whats up with the custom door panels?

Then it prolly wasn't brown!

On my old ford some PO had plumbed the PS to itself, like a loop and kept it full of fluid and it didn't do a thing, but would still work if I had found the PS rack. (It, being a old 66'ford, needed a bendex?sp. box ran $300 used before $400-$700remanning.)

What could you get me the full ea81 install set for? Linkages, driveline, crossmember... I might be able to pick it up.

I like the Idea of putting the valve in the engine bay. Tell me more! It does seem like it would be way easier to install, like in a legacy. I'm sitting on installing a prop. valve until I can get to my ej swap which means my brat has to be a dd (rear wheel bearings and a tranny possibly a steering column we'll know after I get rubber$$$$)

I'm sure that it gonna get more common to see custom axle replacements if the ea d/r trannies fade out as everyone will be moving to ej stuff. No big money wanted to make a drop I see. Its not like they are impossible to get, you just have to be pro active to get them shipped. If my old antique buyer was still unretired I could have gotten a tonne shipped. He worked in full sized containers.

Ya know, I would just re ground all the engine ground points for good measure. I personally think subaru did a terrible job and use wire sizes not capable for running a 20+ yr old car. I put in monster cable for grounds and there have been no new weird symptoms for a long time now. Cables get old. The sparks got to have some place to go and the stock block ground is really small and sees a lot of action.